I have completely disassembled the saw, cleaned everything and reassembled and am experiencing the same issue. I am thinking nw that is could be a bad ignition coil. I gapped the coil from the magneto at .008'' (also tried .005 and .010 and got same results).
The exact symptom is that I can choke it, it starts for a second, then quits, which is normal. I then unchoke it, and is start high idle for 2-3 seconds then shuts off, which is not normal, it usually stays running after the second pull on unchoke position.
I have tested the coil and it is showing 6.77 kilo-ohms from base to cap.
I have similar problem but I can see the fuel line has a crack in it were it is visible between the tank and engine cover. My question is how the heck do you disassemble and get to the fuel line? thank you.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: Starts for a few seconds, then quits
You will have to remove the air breather and carburetor to make the job easier. You will then be able to access the fuel lines easier. You may also need to take the gas tank off. While you have the carburetor off, it might be a good idea to clean it as well. Use a Den Tek Brush, (used for cleaning teeth), for small ports in carb. And depending on how old your chainsaw is and how much it is used, you may want to go ahead and get a carburetor kit and replace the needle valve, small screen, and appropriate gaskets. Sounds like it might just be your fuel lines though.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
More than likely an idler pulley assembly issue. Best bet is to order a replacement. You might as well replace the drum belt too since it means a complete disassembly of the unit for proper access, cleaning and repair. If you don't have the know-how it's best left to an experienced technician.
Possibly you have an overheating GPU or CPU problem. If you can do it, then disassemble the laptop and:
- Clean up everything (use canned air),
- Replace the cooling pad or cooling paste of GPU (if applicable) and CPU,
Reassemble the laptop.
Before you disassemble this laptop, you can check the air inlet, air outlet and the fan, and clean them up using canned air. I hope it solve the problem.
Hello Michele Taylor - This particular issue can be caused by quite a few reasons. Washer could be experiencing a communication error from the main control board, faulty door lock assembly, faulty pump or the timer itself is not operating correctly. Did you notice a humming noise? If so, either the drainage hose/pump is clogged and needs to be cleaned or could possibly have another issue with the door lock assembly or pressure switch. I strongly suggest consult a professional for a proper diagnosis and to assist with the repairs.
Not sure what to say other than its fuel starvation, if not already done replace the fuel filter in the tank, if no better i would suspect a massive air leak, so replace the crank seals, if there is no primary compression in the crankcsae fuel will not pull through the engine, good luck.
Hello - This particular issue can be caused by quite a few reasons. Washer could be experiencing a communication error from the main control board, faulty door lock assembly or the timer itself is not operating correctly. Did you notice a humming noise? If so, either the drainage hose/pump is clogged and needs to be cleaned or could possibly have another issue with the door lock assembly or pressure switch. You can also press and hold the start/pause and cancel button together at the same time for approximately 30 seconds to display an error code on the LED. What error code does it display? However, I would suggest contacting a professional to accurately diagnose the washer.
It's possible that the brushes may have worn out or a bad connection may have developed in them or at the brush holders. Open the motor, check the brushes and look for any overheating. One of the windings may have gone open circuit in the armature of the motor and in this case it probably isn't worth repairing.
The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for the Oil system and is sketchy at best. Oiler components and part numbers are listed but may be on different illustrations. They are also beneficial with disassembly/reassembly: Poulan.com (all models) http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/POULAN-WEED-EATER/75.59.html The dash number of your serial number is the type.
Oil System Plugged:
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck. Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
The brake was engaged when removed. The Illustrated Parts List (IPL) here shows how the majority of components fit together. The brake needs to be released to clear the clutch drum.
Secure the clutch cover (it requires quite a bit of force), with a couple of blocks of wood, in a large vise or a C-clamp on a work surface.
Use a pair of pliers or a crescent and rotate the spoked part CW until it latches. This one is latched.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Good Luck. HTH Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
Laptop Needs Complete Disassembly.. Fan and Heatsink Assembly needs to be cleaned, Remove all Dust and Debris From The Heatsink Fins and From the Fan Blades, Use A Soft Bristled Toothbrush to clean ..
Gently Clean All Other Parts and Components.. Reassemble Laptop..
Check The Thermal Pads/Paste On The CPU and GPU.. Replace If Necessary...
That Should Fix Your Issue..
If Issue Still Occurs, Next Step Is To Plug An External Monitor (a Desktop Monitor) into The Serial Port Of The Laptop, Reboot The Laptop And Check To See If The Same THing Shows Up On THe External Screen.... If It Does, You Have Video or Thermal Damage and Would Need Either A Video CHip Reflow, Or A Motherboard Replacement..