I have a bottom freezer model. The icemaker quit making ice. Put separate power source to the water solenoid and water will flow to the icemaker, waterline not frozen. So thought it was a faulty icemaker. Replaced icemaker with new. Icemaker still does not get watrer signal. Checked continuity of power lines from icemaker plug to solenoid. Connection good. Icemaker appears to be functioning
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If you have water build-up on the floor of the food compartment, or ice buildup on the floor of the freezer compartment, you are probably suffering from either a frost problem or from a clogged defrost drain.
Remove everything from your freezer, including all food and any shelves. Do not remove the icemaker (if installed.)
Look at and feel the panel covering the bottom or back of the freezer compartment. Is it thick with frost?
On top freezer models, are the holes in the top of the food compartment that lead to the evaporator choked with ice?
Is there ice forming on, or lots of water on the ceiling of the food compartment?
If the answer is yes to any of these questions, there's probably a defrost problem.
If you suspect a defrost problem, first remove any icemaker that may be installed. You will see a removable panel covering the entire back or bottom of your freezer compartment. There may be 6 to 10 or more screws holding it on. In some units there is a light socket attached to the panel; you'll see this arrangement most often in side-by-sides.
If you start to get an unusual buildup of ice in one particular spot in your freezer, especially beneath the icemaker, check for water leaks.
Water leaking onto the kitchen floor not traceable to one of the problems in Chapters 4 or 6 may be from a leak in the icemaker or door dispenser water system. Icemakers have a water solenoid valve mounted on the back of the fridge, usually behind the back bottom panel, and a water tube that leads straight up the back of the fridge to the icemaker. Door dispensers have a similar water solenoid valve with a water tube that leads beneath the fridge and into the door through a hollow hinge. If your fridge has both features, it's usually a dual water solenoid valve. It can be simple or not-so-simple to fix, but basically it's just a plumbing job.
i see no make and model # for your unit for i would check the internet for service manual, if the unit works when you power the solenoid manually than there is a censor or driver output transistor to the solenoid is defective and you will require a manual to service this problem, this problem location is on the control board or censor input to the board
There are multiple components that can cause this.
Open the door and put your finger in the ice tray. Is there any ice or water in it.
If so then the problem is likely the ice maker.
If not then the water supply is either stopped up or the water valve solenoid is broke.
If their is ice then the ice maker may not be making ice for other reasons. Is the Ice Level arm down? If so, the Icemaker has a clock like motor that is actuated by a temperature sensor.
Ice maker calls for water, solenoid fills ice tray, temperature sensor gets cold over about 45 minutes and closes the motor circuit telling the icemaker to dump ice.
If everything is right and still doensn't make ice, some mechanical aspect or the icemaker appears to be broken.
Follow the water source line on the back of the refrigerator to the shutoffvalve on the water supply. Turn the shutoff valve counterclockwise to open itfully.
Inspect the water source line for kinks. Straighten the line to removekinks.Confirm water flows to solenoid one end. And also check freezer door is closed as it will sense solenoid to open to water flow into ice maker. Sometimes, water flow might be plugged by frosting. Check freezer setting temp 5 degree. Thanks.
Before suspecting the solenoid water valve, check the inlet tube, where the water enters the freezer. Sometimes this tube gets blocked with ice. From the back of the refrig, you can disconnect the water line where it goes into the back wall of the freezer and you should be able to blow air through it. (having the freezer door open while attempting this will prevent any back pressure build up) If you can not blow through it, it is plugged with ice. Melt the ice with a hair blower from the inside of the freezer. Ice blockage can result from water seepage past the water valve (generally requires replacement of the solenoid water valve) or the fill tube extention may be too long, resulting in the tube touching the end of the fill cup on the icemaker, which results in a build up of ice and blockage in the fill tube. (this only requires cutting the fill tube a bit shorter, so it does not touch the end of the icemaker's fill cup)
If you were able to blow through the tube, you have either a bad solenoid water valve, or the icemaker is not giving it power (generally only 6 seconds of power near the end of the cycle) which would mean a new icemaker, as replacement icemaker parts are not available.
Replace the Dual water control valve found on the back of the refrigerator near the floor with a new one and thaw out the entrance where the water goes into the ice maker. Provide a model number found on the inside of the fresh food compartment wall and I'll try to help you find the correct part number for the water control valve. The water control valve is apparently leaking like a leaky faucet and it's freezing causing the problem
the water that enters the ice maker is controled by a thing called a solenoid valve (electricaly operated) the" water in door system" is a manual operated valve.. typicaly when the ejector rolls around to put the ice in the tray the solenoid opens lets water in then closes could be solenoid / wireing or controler
usually yes if no water to icemaker could be water valve solenoid. . first you can remove cover on icemaker and put the unit thru a test mode. find the plastic or medal cam in center of icemaker head when cover is removed., theis is a flateblade screw center get a small screwdriver and turn screw counterclockwise for about a 1/4 of a turn , icemaker will start cycling if icemaker ok then it will go througha cycle let it do its thing usually a few minutes for it to cycle, if fills you may have a bad icemaker, if no fill then valve may be bad. make sure you have good water pressure from your water supply that can cause icemaker problems.
First, check to make sure you have water pressure at your supply line. (flex hose) If you have pressure and the icemaker is cycling, (arm moving up and down on its own) you most likely have a defective water inlet valve. This is the valve that the supply line connects to. Water is fed to this valve through your flex hose and then passed through a solenoid to your icemaker when the solenoid is energized.
Very curious. When you say the tube to the ice maker was disconnected I am unsure as to which tube you are refering to. However hopefully a few pointers might help a damsel. Most units have the water supply enter into the cabinet through a two way water solenoid valve (i.e. one for chilled water one for the ice maker). It then normally enters the top of the freezer section for the ice maker. It then drops down inside the freezer section to the icemaker module. Therefore the only control over the water for the icemaker is the solenoid valve which is controlled by the icemaker "module". A trick is to switch the control at the solenoid valve so that you can use the chilled water dispenser to check if the water valve for the icemaker is working. If it is then you probably have a problem with the icemaker module or the temperature in the freezer section (which you would probably have noticed if that was the case). If you have a problem with the module then you normally have to replace the module as they dont like supplying spares for modules.
Anyway hope this is of some help and good luck.
ps model is normally near the salad drawer or top of the fridge section dependent on brand.