Thermostat is turned up, air returns are all clear. I've cleaned underneath as much as I can without tipping the unit over. I have removed the rear cover and cleaned off the fan, which is working. The unit is NOT runnig all the time. (seems to run normally) Is this a thermostat issue, or do I need to tip the unit to do some more cleaning?
Re: Freezer on bottom works fine, fridge part dosnt
It sounds like the timer is going bad.... there is a timer that runs the fridge for 6 hrs. and defrosts for 20 mins. if the contacts are pitted ,it will run for shorted periods ..... this timer can be located anywhere from behind the unit where the compressor is to inside the regrigerator compartment ...
Re: Freezer on bottom works fine, fridge part dosnt
Just had the same problem and exact same symptoms with 21 cf Kenmore fridge w/ bottom freezer. I ruled out problems with fans, etc. Finally pulled off the freezer door, etc. to gain access to the evaporator assembly at the back of the freezer. You need to remove the sliding door/drawer hardware and ice-maker to remove the back panel -- takes a little time, but not a difficult job). The evaporator was heavily iced up (maybe the defrost timer problem mentioned by Jerico, or maybe just an accumulation over a long time; a family member sometimes didn't slide the freezer door all the way closed). In any case, the "snow line" had gotten pretty high, blocking off the refrigerator cold air return duct to the evaporator. In the fridge compartment in my model, this is a small square grated opening in the bottom of the fridge, left hand side, back, under the left hand veggie crisper. When that vent is blocked (can't see any problem from inside the fridge compartment), the cold air can't circulate back to the evaporator coils -- no air out means no air in, so no cooling in the fridge section. Freezer OK because the evaporator coils are right there.
Finished de-icing with a hair dryer, using small towels under the evaporator coils to catch most of the water. I am about ready to fire it back up. If the same problem returns in a few weeks or months, I will go for the defrost timer replacement. If not, I'm done for a while.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You either have a faulty thermostat, a loose connection or most likely a build up of ice inside the freezer. I had the same problem. Almost replaced fridge. Took all the food out one day, took out the racks and disassembled bottom and rear and found a two foot log block of ice inside air return. Removed ice everything works perfectly.
Your description is quite complete but is rather baffling. Pls bear with me while we process by elimination. A few basic/working ideas:
most designs call for a single compressor to cool the freezer;
the cold air in the freezer is drawn towards the fridge to cool that area;
this is performed by a fan drawing air in the freezer through the evaporator;
most would have a vent or air pathway to guide the freezer air;
all would have thermostatic control to set the desired temperature;
some designs have two thermostatic control , 1 for the freezer, 1 for the fridge.
As applied to your concern:
compressor is working since freezer is OK;
fan is working as you posted but is the air drawn from the freezer, better still, is the air forced/vented into the fridge?
could you please check that the air is strongly blown into the fridge area;
a little experiment, open the fridge door, look for and press on the door switch, the light should go out, after a lengthy seconds, the fan should trigger on, not only would it be audible, you would notice the frozen air swirling inside the fridge area. If you hold on long enough to the dorr switch, the compressor should kick in (if it is not already running) since the thermostat of the fridge area (if one is present) would sense that the fan is turning but the fridge area is not cooling.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.
The drain in the freezer behind back lower panel needs opening. You can see it at the bottom of the back panel underneath the evaporator coils. (The cold coils) Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer. When the defrost melts the water it goes down the drain If the drain is clogged with Ice or ? The defrost water overflows into the ref. or freezer Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer. Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear Clean condenser coils underneath .I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.; Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically Thanks for using fixya Leo Ponder imufo2 Please VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
All cooling takes place in the freezer (bottom, in your case). Freezer air must be circulated into the fresh food compartment to cool it. There is a fan in the freezer called the evaporator fan, which is supposed to do this job.
1. You have a blockage in the return vent to the freezer. Remove item that is on the floor of the fresh food section and find this return vent (hole or passageway) and prove to yourself that it is clear.
2. Freezer fan is not working. You should hear it when opening the freezer door. Some units shut opff when the door is open, so see if pushing the button that turns off the freezer light does that too. If not working find out why. Fan blade stuck on something? Motor seized? Replace failed motor.
3. Defrost system has failed, allowing ice build-up on the evaporator (behind freezer back wall). Test heater, defrost limiting thermostat, and defrost timer circuit. If a circuit board determines defrost cycle timing, replace it if the def. thermostat and heater are good.
I have a Whirlpool ED5FHGXNQ00 side by side.for a while it started to show signs of warming up in the fridge side.i noticed the dust built up underneath on the coils and cleaned it.i left it of*** night to defrost.have not plugged it back in yet.but in the freezer behind the panel there was ice build up to the right of the evaporator fan on the plastic scroll.i cleaned that upturned it on and noticed that there was very little air coming through the top air scoop vent in the fridge side.when I open the freezer door it allows more air though(probably to compensate).anyway I read alot on this issue and some say it's the defrost timer boardsome thermostat.the compressor stays pretty hotbut the freezer works fine.please help.
Have you pulled out the refrigerator and cleaned or used a vacum cleaner to get out the dirt and dust off the back of the coils, or if the coils are underneath, you need to get an inexpensive appliance brush for fridge, and clean the coils under the fridge, pull off the panel on the front bottom of the fridge, get a flash light and look to see if the coils are covered in dust....may just need to vacum and use appliance brush underneath...this should be done at least one a year, you will notice your fridge running much better and cooling back to normal.......hope this helps......
Either the damper that the air flows up through is closed or the return air flow vents are blocked with clear ice.
Do you feel the air come out all the way at the top of the duct assembly when the freezer door is opened (but it then stops when the door is closed)?
If so, then it sounds like your return air flow vents are clogged. These are located to the left and right of the duct assembly in the rear/bottom of the refrigerator section. Sometimes you may have to slowly pour hot water into these vents to get the clear ice to thaw. The water should go down into the freezer section behind the evaporator and then out the drain in the back.
If you do not get the air to flow out the top of the duct assembly then the damper is staying shut. This could be either a bad damper in the duct assembly or the main board my not be sending voltage to the damper. Hope this helps.
Generally speaking it is the refrigerator control that controls the compressor operation. Refrigerator is cooled by air from the freezer. When the refrigerator gets down to its designed temperature it shuts off the compressor. The freezer control determines how much air is allowed to flow into the refrigerator section and there-by controls the freezer temperature.