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Fader knob is shorting out! Looking for a way to fix the knob from the circuit board? any help would greatly be apprectiated

My fader knob on the eq has a short. when i push the knob a certain way the driver side speakers work, but when i dont push the knob the speakers cut out. i am looking at the circuit board and am trying to figure out how to fix the knob?

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It is not a short.the knob goes to a variable resistor that has a graphite track and a wiper arm inside it.there are two kinds ,sealed and open.the open have a small hole at the back and you can spray contact cleaner in the hole and it will fix it.
if it is a sealed type,you have to spray in at the circuit board where the pins go in. not the solder side of the pc board, but the component side.
there is a slot on the bottom where the pins come out.
if contact cleaner does not do it,there is probably a crack in the track,and you need to replace the potentiometer.if it says 10k it is 10000 ohms.if it says 100k it is 100000 ohms. if you take it all apart,an electronics shop will solder in a new "pot" for you for a reasonable amount

Posted on May 23, 2009


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Clipping always lit

  1. Make sure nothing is plugged in.
  2. Turn the GAIN, LEVEL, and FX knobs for each channel, counter-clockwise all the way.
  3. Bring the MAIN fader all the way down.
If the signal LED's above the MAIN fader are still lit, then the board most likely has a short in it and will require repair.

If the signal LED's are dark, repeat the following on each channel...

  1. Rotate GAIN clockwise until the mark on the knob is at "12 oclock".
  2. Rotate LEVEL clockwise until the mark on the knob is at "3 oclock"
  3. Raise the MAIN fader to "0".
  4. Check LED's - if they light up then the channel you are working on is "noisy" or has a short in it.
  5. Return GAIN, LEVEL, and MAIN to "all off".
  6. Repeat with next channel.

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If the problem appears to be the faders, you can try putting a little CRC226 into the center of the slot of the faders. You can get this in the electrical dept of Home Depot. Use of Deoxit and other cleaners destroy the lube in the pots and then wear of the slider causes failure. Replacing the pots requires a lot of labor to access the pots, namely removing knobs and screws. Great care must be used in removing the pots from the circuit board as use of non-professional desoldering tools often damage the board. These have ROHS solder requiring higher temperatures for removal and use of manual desoldering plungers and solder wick usually lifts circuit traces destroying the board. If the CRC 226 doesn't fix the pots, best take it to a repair shop.

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Changing faders USUALLY involves removing all panel hardware so that circuit board can be removed to get at the fader. It is often a LOT of work with a boit of hazards along the way.
If the control is noisy I want you to try something before replacing the fader. Get a can of CRC226 available at Home Depot in the Electrical department... about $2.70 for a can. Using the included plastic spout tube, squirt a bit into the center of the control where the knob is. Work it back and forth and then put a little more in and test if it is better or fixed.
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You may have destroyed the faders. If excessive force is applied to put the knob on, then the resistance element may be cracked. ALWAYS only put the button on at one end of the throw of the fader. The channelfaders appear to be 10K, probably audio taper. Most are made by ALPS. You can probably get replacement from either or Often the tab for the knob is too long and has to be cut off and de-burred. Removing the faders from the board REALLY requires a soldering station/de-soldering station as it is easy to damage the circuit board. Do NOT use solderwick as you would need too much heat to remove solder from the back side... you need a solder ****** type. Mesure the throw of the slider as a first step to find replacement. Next, match the hole pattern, and then next the resistance value and finally the taper, in this case, audio.
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The fader is likely a dual pot. The manufacturer is likely ALPS. You need to match the board hole layout, slider throw, resistance, AND TAPER.

There will be a number on the side of the pot that will have the resistance and taper... It is likely an "A" taper which is an audio log taper.

Replacing this involves removing about the right 1/3 of knobs, screws, and jack mounting nuts and washers to remover the circuit board the pot is mounted on.

There are connecting cables to be removed.

Try to find part at or Note that the handle MAY be too long. Shorten the handle with tin snios and remove the burr.

BEFORE any of this is done, you should investigate to make sure it is the fader. If the left channel is intermitent scratchy then the fader is likely bad, These will get scratchy before they fail... If that is not the scenario, then there probably is something else bad.

Since the board is similar to the eurodesk model, on that one DO NOT plug mono 1/4 inch plugs into the mains output 1/4inch jacks as those are TRUE TRS balanced lines.

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