Question about Duke 613-E1V Electric Single Oven

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Problem with duke 613 commercial oven

No power to elements.
need a wiring diagram

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Http://www.4emweb.com/search.asp
try this web site. I found a list of wiring diagrams here..If you have a problem getting there, let me know and I will give steps as to how.
Good luck.

Posted on May 24, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hi My duke 6/13 oven is smoking and is not supossed to do that Any advice on this matter ?


check to see if any food has dropped on the elements, if it is food then monitor it until the food is burnt off , if it is not food i would turn it off at your fuse box and call an engineer or like minded family member to take a look at it, hope all goes well.

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Why would a duke's manufacturing co oven model E102-g stop heating ?


An erratic thermostat, heating element, or both.

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If it's getting hot, but it isn't cooking as fast as normal, your convection blower/fan may be out. If you can hear the fan running, but the oven isn't getting hot enough, then you most likely have a heat element or thermostat problem.
Fan and blower problems tend to be a bit more common with convection ovens.

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My Neff U1721 element went with a bang. We have replaced before on 3 occasions successfully - but the elements have not lasted very long. On this occasion have replaced element - but not working. Please...


Hello Helen. You should not have to replace the elements often unless you are a commercial establishment using the ovens constantly. If you are commercial you may not have any thing wrong. Otherwise, I would recommend that you check the wiring that feeds the elements and those connections. If the connection to the element is loose you may be getting intermittent sparking which would shorten the life of the heating element. J.

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Hi, the elements on my duke e101-e 240v single phase convection oven keep going out every 3 to six months...is there any other reason why they would go out so often?


Check that the elements are high quality, dont use cheap elements, also replace all the elements and all are working, do not leave the door open while heating for along time. Do not power cold water on them while hot to clean let them cool down gradually.make sure the termina conection to are not loose during replacement. swicth off when you dont need to use for a long

Jul 29, 2010 | Duke 59-E4Z Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

ELECTRIC OVEN WILL NOT HEAT


Hello there:
Here is some Helpful troubleshooting tips i have made up for you
Hope this is very helpful for you.

If the element looks good, then we progress to basic electrical measurements (hint: that’s an illustrative link put there for your edumucation– read it now). Y’see, Hoss, incredibly, the element can look fine from the outside (and usually does) but the inner core, the part that electricity flows through and gets really hot, can be electrically open. So, we’ll start with a simple resistance measurement of the bake heating element. To do this, you have kill power to the oven and then remove the visible and obvious element retaining screws. Then remove at least one wire from the element; you can, of course, remove the entire element from the oven, as shown in the picture (click for larger view). You’ll be making the measurements with your probes on the element’s terminals.
Measure the resistance with your meter; anything less than 50 ohms is good. If you’re seeing a high resistance reading, like something in the thousands of ohms (denoted with the “K” on most meters) then, ding-ding-ding, you just found the problem– come git you a new element.
If the element tests good, then it’s time to graduate to live tests. That means voltage on the circuit, fire in the hole, fry yo’ ace if’n you ain’t careful. If you don’t know how to safely make live voltage measurements, then stop reading right now and call a professional appliantologist. You’ll also need the wiring or schematic diagram of the oven– these are usually hidden inside the control panel compartment, some disassembly required. Make sure you’ve killed power to the oven before going any further, Homer.
Before we get into the actual live test, it would helpful for you to know how the bake element works so you’ll have some insight into how the live test is done. A bake element operates at 240vac, 120vac is supplied to each side of the heating element. One side is tied more or less directly to L1 or L2 (both of which are tied to 120vac)– see your model-specific wiring diagram, I’m just ’splaining the strategery here.
The other side of the heating element is connected to the electronic range control either directly or through some intermediary controls. (Antique, RV, or off-grid ranges may not have an ERC but rather a mechanical thermostat. Ahh, those were the days…)
Now, here’s where the real strategery comes in. The basic idea is that when the bake element is turned on, BOTH sides of that element should get 120vac (remember, the element is supposed to have 240vac to heat up properly). So we’re going to split the problem in half by seeing which side of the bake element power circuit isn’t coughing up its 120vac. Then we shall deal harshly with its insolence.
218_a1.thumbnail.jpgOk, are you ready to rock or are you ready to shock? If you’re still rockin’, here’s how we do the live test:
  • kill power to the oven (which you already did earlier, right? icon_wink.gif );
  • disconnect one wire from the bake element and then secure it so it doesn’t touch anything else
  • clip the common side of your meter to any known ground point, like an unpainted metal surface in the oven;
  • re-apply power to the oven;
  • measure voltage at both of the element power wire leads;
  • the one that isn’t giving you 120vac is the circuit you need to troubleshoot; you can ignore the other side.
See, you just cut the problem in half! Now kill power to the oven again and focus your keen, Vulcan-like squinties on the wiring diagram and locate your problem circuit. Then identify the next component in line between the end of the heating element wire with the missing voltage and wherever it ends up, be it the circuit board or one of the power lugs on the terminal block in the back of the oven. The rest is trivial. Continue applying this essential kata until you find the missing voltage in that circuit.

Dec 11, 2009 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

Oven not working


chances are that the element is bad but with out more info on like what kind of thermostat you have if digital display if any codes like f-1 show this would be first thing i look at check power at element 220 volts should be at element if so element is bad (replace) is not you need to find the wiring diagram and follow it back and check voltage and ohms you will need a volt ohm meter for this.
good luck

Dec 06, 2007 | Ovens

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