Here is some Helpful troubleshooting tips i have made up for you
Hope this is very helpful for you.
If the element looks good, then we progress to basic electrical measurements
(hint: that’s an illustrative link put there for your edumucation– read
it now). Y’see, Hoss, incredibly, the element can look fine from the
outside (and usually does) but the inner core, the part that
electricity flows through and gets really hot, can be electrically
So, we’ll start with a simple resistance measurement of the bake heating element. To do this, you have kill power to the oven
and then remove the visible and obvious element retaining screws. Then
remove at least one wire from the element; you can, of course, remove
the entire element from the oven, as shown in the picture (click for
larger view). You’ll be making the measurements with your probes on the
Measure the resistance with your meter; anything less than 50 ohms
is good. If you’re seeing a high resistance reading, like something in
the thousands of ohms (denoted with the “K” on most meters) then,
ding-ding-ding, you just found the problem– come git you a new element
If the element tests good, then it’s time to graduate to live tests.
That means voltage on the circuit, fire in the hole, fry yo’ ace if’n
you ain’t careful. If you don’t know how to safely make live
voltage measurements, then stop reading right now and call a
. You’ll also need the wiring or
schematic diagram of the oven– these are usually hidden inside the
control panel compartment, some disassembly required. Make sure you’ve
killed power to the oven before going any further, Homer.
Before we get into the actual live test, it would helpful for you to
know how the bake element works so you’ll have some insight into how
the live test is done. A bake element operates at 240vac, 120vac is
supplied to each side of the heating element. One side is tied more or
less directly to L1 or L2 (both of which are tied to 120vac)– see your
model-specific wiring diagram, I’m just ’splaining the strategery here.
The other side of the heating element is connected to the electronic
range control either directly or through some intermediary controls.
(Antique, RV, or off-grid ranges may not have an ERC but rather a
mechanical thermostat. Ahh, those were the days…)
Now, here’s where the real strategery comes in. The basic idea is
that when the bake element is turned on, BOTH sides of that element
should get 120vac (remember, the element is supposed to have 240vac to
heat up properly). So we’re going to split the problem in half by
seeing which side of the bake element power circuit isn’t coughing up
its 120vac. Then we shall deal harshly with its insolence.
Ok, are you ready to rock or are you ready to shock? If you’re still rockin’, here’s how we do the live test:
- kill power to the oven (which you already did earlier, right? );
- disconnect one wire from the bake element and then secure it so it doesn’t touch anything else
- clip the common side of your meter to any known ground point, like an unpainted metal surface in the oven;
- re-apply power to the oven;
- measure voltage at both of the element power wire leads;
- the one that isn’t giving you 120vac is the circuit you need to troubleshoot; you can ignore the other side.
See, you just cut the problem in half! Now kill power to the oven again
and focus your keen, Vulcan-like squinties on the wiring diagram and
locate your problem circuit. Then identify the next component in line
between the end of the heating element wire with the missing voltage
and wherever it ends up, be it the circuit board or one of the power
lugs on the terminal block in the back of the oven. The rest is
trivial. Continue applying this essential kata
until you find the missing voltage in that circuit.