Checked fan motor,it is ok only have 120v going to fan on red lead. 208-240v unit. checked fan fuse, it is ok. compressors for both indoor units run, but the condenser fan will not come on. error code in the condensing unit flashes '' bc ''
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If the outdoor unit is running the indoor fan should definitely be running. Turn power off to indoor unit. Put red green and yellow wires together behind the tstat with a wire nut. That is power (red), indoor fan (green), and compressor (yellow.) Turn power back on. This is bypassing the tstat and you should have indoor fan and outside running as well. If yes the problem is in the tstat, if no indoor fan the problem is in the unit. Good Luck!! Let me know!!
It seems like the indoor fan is not running. Quite a few split systems have a fuse on the indoor board. It will require stripping off the outer cover of the indoor unit and removal of the electronic box cover. The indoor board is in there. The fuse may be replaceable or it may be a type that is soldered on which makes it virtually non replaceable. ( A new indoor board will be required) Make sure all power is turned off or disconnected before you do anything. Another possibility is the fan motor start capacitor has failed. Try this first before stripping the unit. When the unit is turned on and the outdoor unit has started, give the indoor fan barrel a flick with your finger to start it spinning, if it keeps spinning and the error doesn't appear, it would indicate that the fan motor start capacitor has failed. The capacitors on indoor units are normally small black square boxes with 2 terminals on it. These capacitors are mounted inside or close to where the indoor electronic box is. Again, make sure all power is disconnected or turned off at the meter box before you do any disassembly.
? Looking up that particular model, shows unit has regular 110v motor, if your compressor is on that fan should be as well.checking red to white wire while compressor on you should have 110 volts. if this not the case, look to a broken or disconnected wire compressor and fan should be sharing same power source.
you cant check capacitor with power on it nor using volt setting.need micro ferred setting on meter and check with power off and wires removed. leads go as follow for fan one lead on "C" and one on fan. For compressor one lead on Common and one on HERM. Also be sure voltage on capacitor is correct 360V or 440V. 440V will work for either. Also double check micro ferred requierment on motor and compressor. If its been replaced before may have been replaced with incorrect size. It happens.
It sounds like that unit is connected to a "power saving load
controller" device from the power company. The power company can turn
your unit on & off with a radio signal. If you manually activated
contactor and unit ran. I would bet that the power company's device or
the wiring connecting it is where the problem lies. Call the power
company and have them check their device. If they tell you that the
device has been tested remotely and is working fine. Explain to them
that you can activate your unit manually and it works fine. They should
not charge you to come out. Those "load controller devices" have a
pretty good longevity record.
Ok first thing is it sounds like a wiring problem. So first step is to make sure the thermostat is properly connected. Which... the main thing here is there needs to be 24v dc power coming from your control board (transformer) going to the thermostat..generally that is the red wire. All the thermostat does is connect that "red" wire (power) to one of the other wires to complete a circuit. So make sure you have 24 volts... (generally about .5amps) . if you have power than switch thermostat to fan only should energize the green wire only. then switch to ac and move temp low enough that the ac should turn on and that should energize the yellow wire. for sure one of those wires is incorrect now or the fan wouldn't be on OR THE THERMOSTAT IS NOT CONNECTING THEM AND IT IS BAD. Now about the compressor and fan.... those same wires run out to the compressor unit... ok the yellow for ac.. greeen does not go to compressor unit that is for fan only (vent).. red carries the same 24 volts... one difference here is that most carrier units only have the one transformer....so you run the red wire is the +pos 24 volt..and then a "common " wire is needed which is the Ground or neg... that wire on a carrier is brown usually but could be different depending installer. The orange wire goes to the pump reversing valve it is always energized when on ac mode...when heater is on in the winter it is heat pump and is not energized so just connect the orange and yellow together... tell me more specifics if this doesn't help and i'm sure I can help you... thanks Chuck
After replacing the burned condenser board, check also the entire condensing unit if still ok ( compressor and fan motor). If the light inside the indoor unit is still flashing, the timer is still not giving signal for the compressor to start. Adjust temperature and wait for 3-5 minutes. It light continue flashing, there is something wrong with the indoor unit control.
When you say the 'condenser' stopped running - I'm 'assuming' you are talking about the outside unit, and I'm also 'assuming' that when you say it stopped running you mean 'nothing' runs on the outside unit - fan motor OR compressor. The fan motor will drown out the compressor running noise which is a 'low rumbling' sound - often not heard by the layman because of the noise the fan motor puts out.
Assuming you are talking about the outside unit and 'nothing' is running either fan motor or compressor then you might be 'in luck.' Because the most likely reason for the outside unit to be totally off will be a 'blown fuse' or a 'tripped breaker.' The good news is that in 'hot weather,' especially the kind of hot weather that has been present this summer (especially in the south) - blowing a fuse or tripping a breaker is not necessarily an expensive repair.
Indeed, it's not uncommon for a AC unit to blow a fuse (or trip a breaker) on occasion, although it must be noted that doing so is also is sign on something seriously wrong with your AC, i.e. a fan motor breaking down electrically or even a Compressor, both being expensive items to replace.
But, as I said, it's not uncommon for a fuse to blow once in awhile.
I would check my fuses (and breaker) and see if this is what has happened.
If you have fuses (usually located outside close to the condenser) and have no way to check them (you check them with a ohm meter looking for continuity) - then just 'replace' them with new ones. Note: always put 'time delay/dual element' fuses back in - even if the ones that are in there now are 'one time' fuses. 'Time delay' fuses do just what they say they will do - (they hold for just a second or two during that initial start up (of the compressor) without blowing).
If a blown fuse/tripped breaker is your problem then "most" of the time the AC will run ok and you will not have any more problems.
However, if after replacing the fuses and turning the AC back on - the fuse(s) blows instantly, or a short period thereafter (say a few minutes or an hour) then you probably have a problem that is causing it - i.e. the fan motor or compressor is going bad.
Note: one thing that you can fix that might be causing the fuse to blow is a dirty condenser. So, check the condenser coil (think of it like a car's radiator). It 'must' be clean to run properly and when it gets 'really dirty and clogged with dirt it will cause high head pressure and can cause the unit to blow fuses and trip breakers.
There should be 3 terminals on the capacitor marked "C" "F" and "H". A wire from the high voltage contactor goes to the "C". Another wire from "C" goes to the compressor. These wires are usually red. The "F" terminal has a wire going to the fan,usually a brown wire. The "H" has a wire going to the compressor,usually yellow. There should be a wiring diagram on the control box cover identifying the terminals,colors and number of wires.