Re: the 4 plastic brackets that adjust the bed spring up...
You can email them - they emailed me the instructions and parts list in a 16 page pdf. firstname.lastname@example.org
Here are the instructions for your crib. Please review them and seewhich parts you will need. We accept Visa or Master Card. Parts are nonreturnable. Delivery is normally 7-10 business days. We do havereplacement parts for this crib. Please review the instructions and seewhat you will need.JThank you,CindyCustomer Service RepSimmons Juvenile Furniture':Phone: 1-800-218-2741 ':Phone: 1-920-779-40047:Fax: 1-920-779-4216
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A bugaboo brake fault can be caused by any one of the three parts that make up the brake system.
1/ The cable and cable adjustment screw. 2/ The brake lever assembly. 3/ The brake shoe assembly.
I've listed the three parts in the order of most likely to cause your brake problem. First I'll give a quick over view of how the brake should work then we'll look at the 3 parts in more detail.
Lifting the brake lever up pulls up on the brake cable, a ratchet in the lever keeps any tension until you press the release button in the centre of the lever. The cable pulls up on a toothed brake shoe and via a connecting axle a matching brake shoe on the other side, these brake shoes engage a set of matching teeth on the inside rims of the rear wheels thus locking the wheels.A spring on the cable side brake shoe disengages the brake shoes when the release button disengages the ratchet in the brake lever.This is a simple system with most parts in plain view so you can see the operation of all parts except the ratchet inside the lever.
1/ The brake cable is the most likely cause of most brake problems.Like all cables they can stretch, stick and snap.If the brake lever seems to work OK but the breaks don't hold very well try adjusting the cable tension by winding out the cable adjustment screw at the bottom of the cable thus taking up any slack and bringing the brake shoes up tighter into the wheel rims.A sticky or broken cable should be obvious by observing the brake action as you pull and release the brake lever.Run some sewing machine or 3 in 1 oil down the inner cable wire if it's sticky. If broken you can make anew cable yourself. You will need a universal bicycle brake cable kit and a solder less nipple. The Bugaboo has an odd double nipple design. Your replacement cable will only have one end the same as the Bugaboo.The other end will be either bare or have the pear style nipple.This you would cut off.Using the old cable as your guide, you cut the new outer cable to 75 cm and fit the ferrules supplied with the kit. The matching nipple will be the top (lever) end of the cable, reuse the old adjuster and slip it on to the bottom end followed by the solder less nipple.Set the nipple 89 cm from its opposite.Depending on the cable and nipple you buy you may need to drill the plastic parts out to ease the fit.If this sounds to complicated just print this out and give it to your local bike shop.
2/ The brake lever assembly is made up of the lever, a release button, a small compression spring and the outer bracket that holds it all on the handle. The bracket also holds the left handle release button.The most common problem is the ratchet fails to hold and this is a safety issue as it can fail quite suddenly!Either the small compression spring has broken (unlikely) the screws holding the assembly loosen (hopefully) or the teeth on the button and outer bracket have worn down (most likely).Try first to tighten the two screws, if that does not help take the two screws out.It's a simple mechanism the button sits inside the lever it can move in and out of the lever but can't turn as it has splines that lock it to the lever.A compression spring pushes the top outer edge of the button against the inner side of the bracket; they both have serrated teeth that lock them together. The raised centre of the button protrudes though the bracket.Pushing on the center of the button disengages the interlocking teeth of the ratchet. The compression spring can be found in most hardware stores, worn ratchet teeth can be reshaped with a rotary modeling tool like the Demel.
3/ If the Brake shoes are the problem it will be obvious,broken expansion springs are easily replaced, stripped threads on the cable adjuster can be sorted at your local bike shop and broken parts either repaired by a plastic welder / bumper repair shop or replaced with parts from a salvaged frame. The most common problem is one shoe engaging before the other. Take the screw out of the connecting shaft of the shoe that engages first adjust shoe to match other side and drill a new screw hole.
I have a couple of Fuji S700 cameras and one of them recently came down with the same issue. The flash would partly open but not pop up all the way. I decided to open the camera up and find out what was really wrong. It had been sticking before and the above suggestion about blowing it out helps, but this issue is where it unlatches, pops up part way but doesn't go all the way up and if it doesn't go all the way up the flash doesn't work.
The problem is there is a spring insite the flash hinge that pops the flash up once the electronic latch is opened by the auto exposure circuitry. One end of the spring goes into a hole on the part of the flash that pops up and this plastic part is simply too thin for the force on it and it breaks over time. Bad design.
I should say I first thought about a couple of workarounds. One was real easy if you are not too handy. Take a small rubber band and run it from around the eyepiece to around the "lobe" under the flash. When you weant to use the flash, depress the shutter half way to unlatch it, then move the elastic from the lobe to under the raised flash and it will hold it up. You can leave it up all the time if that works for you. It didn't fit my case with the flash up all the time so I decided to forge ahead... Buying a new case might have been a wiser choice :-)
By the way, its not easy to get into the flash area. I pretty much had to completely disassemble the camera, and I got in a fight with a very high voltage capacitor for the flash that holds its charge for a VERY long time after the batteries are out AND it holds enough charge to get you a few times so use a resistor to discharge it when you get into that are or else... be afraid, very afraid. Seriously. Before you disassemble read on...
If you had a very tiny right angle philips screwdriver you could probably do this repair without taking things apart. The key is there are two screws that hold the top cover of the flash area on. This is the area you need to get at to fix this spring. These screws that are only accessible when the flash is popped up and even then you can't see them as they are recessed. If you can get those screws out somehow then you can do this without a nightmare. If you take the whole thing apart then welcome to hell. I am just on my way back from hell. Hope mine works when I get it back together.
I chose to epoxy a small bent pin in to replace the broken plastic part. I used a long square wire wrap pin, bent it to the right shape and cut it to the right dimensions then glued it in place using epoxy. There is a fair amount of room for glue in there, but be careful not to get it into the area where the lower shaft has to slide back and forth as the flash pops up and down. I used 5 minute epoxy and first just used a tiny dab to hold it in place and I positioned it carefully and let that set. Then I did another glue job to add some strength. Position, then reinforce.
1. I took bottom metal support bracket off, probably didn't solve issue.
2. Adjusted paper width guide, on gears, when I did that, spring loaded piece that paper lays on released, pushing down, and I was able to remove paper drawer.
You can find parts HERE. I do not think you need new "Ratchet Lock Assm." unles yu lost it (I have never seen one broken). Make sure you have the Spring and lubricate it well (do not use liquid lubricants as they will leak on the carpet).
I have a similar problem, but a different Simmons crib. I called the
company that momof4girls unrecommended and they were VERY helpful, but
they were not able to ship me the parts as Simmons discontinued this
type of hardware in the early 90's. My crib has a headboard and
footboard - the 2 side boards are able to slide up and down on aluminum
slats (almost 3 feet long.) The aluminum slats are connected to the
headboards with 8 bolts; what I needed to order replacements of are the
plastic sliders that allow the sidewalls to go up and down on the
aluminum bracket. Not only do they allow it to go up and down, but
without them you are not able to assemble the sidewalls to the crib at
all. I solved the issue buy purchasing L brackets at Lowes and
permanently attaching the sidewalls to the headboard and footboard, but
it made it so the sidewalls did not raise or lower. I am ok with
that! However, if you do NOT have the aluminum slats, you may be out
of luck. The spring for the bed attaches on the aluminum brackets, so
even if you were able to bolt the 4 sides together, you still have to
figure out a way to attach the spring for the mattress (which connects
by sliding a hook into holes on the aluminum bracket... no room for
bolts here.) I am rather surprised that the hardware for this crib is
plastic and aluminum; the bed is HEAVY and it is very difficult to put
together as the aluminum slider is easily bent and the plastic sliders
are flimsy. I actually broke the plastic pieces during assembly. No
wonder this hardware was discontinued! I called Simmons and asked if
they had an "updating' kit... they do not. Good luck!