The problem started with heavy loads, so I just kept on making my loads smaller untill we were down to the extra small, and now nothing. Sometimes if it would go through a cycle and not spin out I could give it a start by hand and then it would get going. As it got worse I had to include lifting the whole basket a bit all around and then giving it a manual start and it would finish the spin cycle. The washer doesn't have a problem with anything else, it's only 4 years old and works great otherwise.
I have eliminated the posibility of a worn out coupler, took it apart and it looks great, then I thought it could be the drive block so took it apart up to that point, but to my dissapointment the block looks just fine. Any ideas??? Yesterday I read somewhere that it could be a bad clutch or the transmission... if it aggitates great is that still a possibility?
What do I do next and do I go in from the top or the bottom eg: do I take off the outer tub and if so how to do that?
Help, I hate going to the laundromat!!!
I want my washing machine back! :(
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Re: Whirlpool top loader will no longer spin.
Hi, You will need a spin basket drive. It is the clutch/brake assembly that sits on top of the transmission. It is common with these newer machines I am afraid. It is part # 285792. I hope this helps. If I can assist you further please let me know. If you need a place to order this part, please give my web sight a chance @ www.whirlpoolpartssurplus.com
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'Unbalanced Load' occurs when the machine detects that one side of the tub is heavier than the other.
This most often happens when heavy and/or large items become pushed to one side of the tub during the wash and become much heavier when the spin cycle engages.
This is more often seen in 'tub' style machines rather than front loaders.
Usually the machine has a safety system which shuts down the spin cycle and 'buzzes' to alert you to reach in and move things around in order to rebalance the load.
IF YOUR MACHINE RUNS FINE UNTILL IT GETS TO THE SPIN CYCLE OPEN THE DOOR IF IT'S A TOP LOADER AND TAKE A SMALL SCREW DRIVER YOU WILL SE A HOLE WITH A SWITCH LIKE AREA PUSH DOWN ON THE SWITCH AND SEE IF THE DRUM STARTS TO TURN AND SPIN THIS IS A SAFTEY SWITCH SO THE LID HAS TO BE CLOSED FOR THE SPIN CYCLE TO START. IF IT'S A FRONT LOADER THERE ARE MORE SWITCHES AND SAFTEYS AND WOULD HAVE TO LOOK ON LINE FOR YOUR MODEL
I assume from your comment that your old washer was a top loader. Yes, front loading machines typically have longer cycle times than top loaders. There are several contibuting factors... first of all, the wash action of a front load is to oscillate the drum back and forth as well as provide a slow tumbling motion whereas a top loader w/ agitator or impeller has a more aggressive action. The more aggressive action rolls and tumbles your clothes more often and therefore cleans faster. Also, because front loaders spin very fast (up to twice as fast as top loaders) to reduce the amount of moisture left in the clothes, they need to have balanced loads. They accomplish this by testing and rebalancing your load several times during each cycle before beginning to spin.
That was a long answer to your question- no, you are not doing anything wrong.
Good day, Without the model number or make, makes it pretty hard to come up with a solution, but if it's not a Whirlpool, Kitchenaid, Roper, or Kenmore direct drive top loader, Remove the front panel and check the belt and tensioner. Also, on occasion, water, and or possibly oil from an oil leak out of the bottom seal of the transmission can get on the belt and cause slippage.
P.S. On older Whirlpool and Kenmore washers, they did use a belt and you accessed it from a panel on the rear. Belt might need adjusted, or in some cases the clutch simply wore out. Not a practical repair.
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
A couple of possibilities.
1. The Brake Cam Driver in the brake assembly (a plastic piece could be broken.
2. The break springs may also be broken.
Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and maintenance guide for direct drive washers. It has a section on how to access and replace the brake and drive tube.
You'll have to remove the agitators and the drive block. There is a spanner wrench to remove the drive block nut but I've found that a short 10: pipe wrench hooked over one of the nubs on the nut and sharply taped with a hammer will loosen it.
Please see GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase
hi wanda, most top load whirlpool units, they make the sears kenmore models, are around 3.0 cubic feet. its not that important for a top loader, but when going to a front loader thats how they rate them. what i would recommend is you buy a unit that will do the laundry that you will need to do for the next 15 years. what i mean is if you have 2 or more young children, that you will be doing laundry for the next 15 years, then a full size front loader would do you good. size 3.5 c/f or larger, like a whirlpool he4 or he5. if it is just for 2 people then a smaller unit would be better, like a whirlpool duet or sport model. the reason for the choice is a front loader needs to be filled up for it to work properly. doing smaller loads in a front loader will cause them to shake and not work as well. now be ready as the new washers will cost about 1,000 bucks. another suggestion for 2 people would be the whirlpool cabrio top loader. i like them alot and they have very few parts to fail and have a good reliability. good luck and happy shopping. p.s. remember sears will match prices and give you 10% off the best price!!