It was blowing fuses. Q2 and Z1 were shorted. Replaced them and got a red light. Hit the switch and got a blue light for about 5 -10 seconds Then the fuse blew again. This was with the inverter board plugged in. Now the the fet and zener are shorted again.
Nothing on the inverter board shows a short. But I wish Id a tried it with the inverter unplugged. Ideas????
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If you copy the link below and paste it into the address bar of your browser, it will take you to a web page towards the bottom of which is a link showing "To download this file, click here". Upon doing so a pdf diagram is downloaded. This is a schematic which looks like the one you want.
If the player has a rechargeable battery older than 2 years, it is probably going to need to be replaced. Look at the volts-Ampere-hours rating, and replace with same volts more ampere-hours AH rating.
I have the same PS - did you ever get a diagram ? I'm after one too....resistor R100 completely blown so I can't read its value but its either 900Ohm or 100Ohm ? We might be able to compare symptoms....
Hi, I hope this schematic diagram will help you find the problem of this amp. Try to give signal to the aux input and trace and find where the signal disappears. When you get to the site using the link it is possible that you have to wait a little bit to be able to download. After waiting you should see a button as "Get Manual" and simply click on it and save the file. Good luck! Thanks. gylacz
What does the inverter over 600 Watt.
By what type of battery is the inverter supplied? How many Ah? What is its state?
In order to achieve 1000 Watt for 1 hour you need a fully charged 12 V / 100 Ah lead-acid battery. If your battery is less then 100 Ah and is not very well charged or old (bad) you may not have over 600 W, but not bacause of the inverter, but the battery.
If your inverter stops due to low input voltage (you can see it in the digital display during operation).
If you want to check the real output power of the inverter you should connect it to a big (more than 200 Ah) well charged battery.
this is a post from someone else: Thought I would report my finding with this set. Maybe someone else is experiencing the same problem.
The set would turn on with no picture. No high voltage - no raster. By
turning up the volume, you can hear some noise in the speakers. This
set has many fuses and they all checked out ok.
I located some schematics on the net for the previous generation set -
40H80/56H80. I could not find any site with the 50H82 schematics
without paying. The 40H80 seemed to match the 50H82 fairly closely. I
checked the horizontal output transistor with a scope and found no
signal. I traced the signal back to a board on the signal schematic
called the DPC module. No HOT signal was being generated by this
module. Per the schematic, I checked the voltage supply pins at this
module and found everything ok except pin 6 which is supposed to be
+12V. I traced this back to the power supply connector and found
voltage (pin3 of 8 on BB30). Since I got the set for free and I was
feeling risky, I shorted the +12V at the connector to pin 6 on the DPC.
I got a small spark and the set shutoff, but I could hear static which
indicated that the HOT briefly same on. I shorted out the connection
again and turned the set on. This time is powered up and came back to
life. I've run the set for a couple days so far and it appears to be
I may have gotten very lucky, or I may be shorting out something that
is not supposed to be shorted. I would really appreciate it if someone
who has the real 50H82 schematic could check the connection between DPC
pin 6 and the power supply connector BB30. If this is a real
connection, I have to assume that the trace burned out somewhere. It
vias up and down all over the place and is very hard to follow.