Water both hot and cold is only dripping in to fill tank.checked water pressure with hoses off, Great pressure.other issue, the water continues to fill even when it reaches it set level

It is possible that there is an issue with the water level sensor or pressure switch in your washing machine, which is causing it to continue filling with water even after the tub is full. This can result in the cold water valve working continuously.
You may need to check and clean the pressure switch hose or replace the switch if it is faulty. Additionally, it is recommended to check the inlet valve to ensure that it is functioning properly and not stuck in an open position. If the issue persists, it may be best to consult a professional technician for further assistance.

This important part is right at the end, you have a well!! It sounds like you may have run it dry? Check the well and the pump first. The rest is stop valves and pipes to the tank and beyond and not likely to be causing issues. Your sediment issues and problems with the anode is also due to using well water which is nearly always loaded with minerals..

I had a Maytag centennial washer that would not fill up upon start,Got the sensing light on and nothing..It filled briefly then shut off.I put the machine into a diagnostic check and it did the test fine.I found videos on how to do that. pulled diagnostic codes after watching videos and even had a maytag tech come to the house and we both diagnosed the control board.However after replacing the control board i had the same problem.Sensing light on and nothing.If you have this issue i would check the water valve.This was my problem all along.How i figured it out was when the washer was fillling up i kinked the hoses by hand and no cold water was going through although it looked like it was with the hoses still connected to the valve from hot to cold on diagnostic run of the washer it would fill with hot water but no cold.I saw a lot of videos and they recommended making sure water is on and the screens the hoses connect to were clear.Also heard of making sure pressure coming out of hoses was good and you can check that by turning both hot and cold water off. disconnect hoses then turn the water back on one at a time into the drain hole or washer machine.You will know if pressure is good after turning water on this way hot and cold.Reconnect hoses and although pressure will be coming to the connection to the valve it wasn't filling with the cold water side of the water valve which is where both your hoses hook up too.You will have to remove the rear cover and the top of washer.Google videos to learn like i did on how to do these things.But my main point is i was very frustrated and didnt give up,Until i figured it out.Hope this helps someone cut to the chase of the problem,Im not the best story writer but i know how it can be when you need your washer.Good Luck.

water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.

even when overflowing it shouldnt leak from the door? less u have a bad door seal? the water problem may be due to a bad water inlet valve? have u notice water in the tub even when ur not using it? check with a multimeter the inlet valve and the water pressure switch? blow into the water pressure switch while it is in the wash mode filling with water and if it starts washing the diaphfram is good if not its faulty. u can also checl the water inlet valve the one with the hoses attached . by running either a hot or cold cycle only and turn off the hot then turn off the cold? see if it continues to over flow with each cycle? hot then cold- GOOD LUCKKKKK

You have clog in the water line.
Since all hot water pipes are involved, clog is probably near water heater.

Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that threads onto hose connection.
Brady BTG 100 at Amazon
Picture of gauge

Check outdoor pressure for baseline pressure in your home.
Turn off electricity to hot water heater for an hour or two so there is not scalding water.
Open drain valve on water heater to see if water heater is clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

Put pressure gauge on drain valve and compare with outside pressure.
Open hot water spigot on bathtub and see if tank pressure drops ... if tank pressure drops significantly with bathtub spigot on, then clog is on incoming cold water before tank, and could be on outgoing hot water pipes too.
If tank pressure stays about the same, then clog is on outgoing hot water pipes.

Clog can be sediment caught in cold water shut off valve located above tank. Open and close valve and test pressure again. Take apart incoming cold water pipes above tank and check for sediment. Replace valve. Look at condition of cold water nipple on top of tank.

Sediment caught at hot water elbow near tank.
Sediment can fill up old pipes. Take apart hot water pipes above water heater and see condition.
Look at condition of hot water nipple on top of tank.
You may have to take apart pipes up to first or second elbow.

Pipes can decay at joint where copper pipe connects to galvanized pipe. Check for copper to galvanized connections on cold or hot pipes and replace section of galvanized pipe. Copper pipe will probably be good, the galvanized pipe will deteriorate. Replace copper-to-galvanized joint with 3/4" non-conducting union from hardware store

If you pull the power to the machine and water continues to flow then the water inlet valve is stuck open. You will need to replace the water inlet valve. The Service manual will step you thru the process.


FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.


The water inlet valve is p/n 25001046 Substitution: 12002242 Water valve shop around for best price.


Is this Cold water inlet valve issue? If so and you only do Cold water wash/rinse like me you could switch the fill hose connections from hot to cold to hot at the faucet. Turn the hot water faucet valve off and select Warm/Warm temp selection and you will be filling with cold water wash/rinse. Maybe that would hold you over until you replace the Water Inlet Valve assembly.


You can check out your pressure switch transitions as I had this poster do for his issue at this link http://www.fixya.com/support/t5471295-washer_fills_water_begins_agitate_but


His issue seems to be a definite stuck pressure switch not water inlet valve such as yours. Check to make sure your pressure switch is OK by watching the fill point transitions as I mention in the post.


If you machine is a series 12 or above the Low and Mid fill pressure switch transitions will toggle at the same time. Series 12 and above us a 2 level pressure switch. Series 10 and 1 use a 3 level pressure switch.


Good Luck………….. D*ick

you nead to turn off both cold and hot water.next you nead to remove cold water hose from washer.remove screen and clean it and replace it.hookup cold water hose to washer and turn water back on.you should have better pressure.your rince cycle is cold water.

Inlet screen in the hot water hose is clogged (check at both ends) or the solenoid valve has failed.

Washer Basics: Filling with water:
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.


Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.