Question about Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Tub rotates CW during agitation, out of balance, hits side of metal cabinet, but no error code

I have Maytag FAV6800AWW top loader. It's about 4 years old. I have fought the clutch issue where it throws out of balance errors etc. Replaced the clutch.... and all was well. For the last 4 months I have been fighting the tub rotating Clockwise during agitation which is like slowly spinning an out of balanced load (tub is hitting sides of washing machine metal covers). Does someone know where the mechanism is that keeps the tub from rotating CW? I don't think it's in the clutch assy, but I wonder about in the bearing or transmission? Thanks SRC

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  • 8 more comments 
  • fuzebox May 22, 2009

    Different Make and model, same pain. My GE model WJSR2080T2WW spins slowly clock wise during the wash and rinse cycle. All other functions seem to be OK. Mother is out washer shopping right NOW. If I can't finger this out, I'll be out at least 350! Shazzbat!!!



    Fuzebox@earthlink.net

  • Steve Coray Jun 06, 2009

    HI Rich,
    I actually gave you quite a response two weeks ago... but since I was not logged in... I guess I lost all of what I had written. Thanks for your e-mail. Before I continue...I am going to try posting just this much to make sure it gets posted.....

    thx
    steve

  • Steve Coray Jun 06, 2009

    TEst one... I can't get my comments to add to the post? why not!???

  • Steve Coray Jun 06, 2009

    testing... 1, 2, 3 ....I can't get my comments to add to the this post!?

  • Steve Coray Jun 06, 2009

    Alas, I see where the comments are added. You would think they would be added below your response/solution (rich!). Anyhow. I am quite competent with this machine. The problem is not the clutch. With the lid raised, I CAN rotate the basket CW ! There in lies the problem. I cannot find where the mechanism is that binds up or secures the wash basket from spinning CW when the agitators are being driven. There has to be a mechanism that essentially locks the wash basket to the outer tub or something stationary. I don't believe the mechanism is in the clutch, since the clutch is always spinning, thus spinning something (CCW, it locks on the wash basket shaft to spin the load CCW. CW it simply transfers spinning to the inner shaft that transfers through the (wetted) transmission to turn the agitators. I am guessing there is some mechanism similar to the clutch but in the tub bearing stack where the spinner/wash basket support shaft goes through that locks down when the spinner/wash basket tries to turn CW relative to the tub. I am just trying to find that mechanism (rachet, or lock down bearings) so I might clean and lube.

    Alternatively, I went to our local appliance parts store. They do have the tool avail. to remove the spinner support shaft and seals. It's 60 bucks. I asked about bearings and they said you have to purchase the entire tub !? They said I might be able to find bearings on the internet. They also said that I was in pretty deep. At what point in time and money do I just buy a new washer?! Good point. But I kind of feel I know the devil now. If I can just figure out this last problem... I know how to fix most everything. Currently the washer is working. It behaves if I take everything apart and clean it... then I have some amount of time before it goes back to rotating CW during agitation. Sure would be nice to talk to some one who knows the design in and out.

    Thanks for you thoughts and suggestion thus far!!!!
    cheers,
    steve

  • Steve Coray Jun 18, 2009

    Hi Rich! sorry for my delayed responses... I too am just a tinkerer, my real job is in a Solar start-up.

    I am completely with you about resistance in the shaft in a shaft mechism that passes through the bottom of the tub accommodating spinning of the wash basket in one direction, and spinning the agitators in the other. That transference of rotation is via the clutch which directionally choses which shaft to energize by the direction of the motor. However, there must be a mechanism that keeps the wash basket from spinning (from drag) as the agitator shaft spins. Sooooooooo.... I think there is a mechanism in the bearing dual shaft assy, that locks out the wash basket to the tub in the case the tub tries to rotate cw !!!

    The last time I had the tub and the wash basket assy out, I did remove the agitator shaft from inside the support shaft assy and lubricated it. Since then the lock out of CW wash basket rotation has been working/successful. Not sure if the lube helped some mechanism out board of the shaft... or whether doing the typical clean helped the mechanism function again... where ever it may be hiding (if not part of the tub bearing assy).

    I did recently purchase a wrench set for removing spinner support shaft, bearings etc. I'll wait until it "breaks" again before messing with it. Alas, after many years... I will not fix what is not broken ! ;)

    I think the spinner suppport shaft assy is ~ 350 bucks new...so that deal on E-bay seems a good one. If I was smart, I would buy as back up!!!!

    I'll keep you posted !
    cheers,
    steve


  • Steve Coray Sep 06, 2009

    Rich,
    Don't know if yer still checking this thread... but I got the wrenches for a steal via..... here; http://www.maytaggenuineparts.com/b2c/me...

    maytag part number 12002139

    Now my machine is screeching like an owl during agitation... not sure if agitation shaft bearing or transmission!!! I am ready to throw the whole thing out and buy a 350$ cheapoh... this isn't worth the time!!!

  • Steve Coray Sep 07, 2009

    Hey Rich.... you must darn near be a moderator! Thanks for the advice regarding e-bay. May look into that... when I bite the bullet and buy a new one! The screeching turned out to be the metal collar that is in the clutch that Locks on the outter roller bearings in clutch assy when motor turns to agitate (er...was that when it turns to spin?) It part of the mechanism that lets the clutch spin one way ..but not the other. I think I must have water leak in the barrel/tub/wash basket assy bearings... as the clutch bearings were rusted up. I played with the handy tool I bought...but turns out...it's not trivial to use? I think I need a spanner wrench to pick up on the outer ears of the locking nut wrench? Gave up, and cleaned everything up... wd 40'ed the collar and bearings...greased and put it back together. Hope to limp for a couple of weeks while I find a good deal on a new one. Have you ever had the bearings out of the tub assy? I am guessing if I could replace those bearings... the seals around the wash/basket support shaft/assy... this thing might last a while?

    thanks again for your replies!
    cheer
    steve

  • Steve Coray Sep 07, 2009

    Hey Rich.... you must darn near be a moderator! Thanks for the advice regarding e-bay. May look into that... when I bite the bullet and buy a new one! The screeching turned out to be the metal collar that is in the clutch that Locks on the outter roller bearings in clutch assy when motor turns to agitate (er...was that when it turns to spin?) It part of the mechanism that lets the clutch spin one way ..but not the other. I think I must have water leak in the barrel/tub/wash basket assy bearings... as the clutch bearings were rusted up. I played with the handy tool I bought...but turns out...it's not trivial to use? I think I need a spanner wrench to pick up on the outer ears of the locking nut wrench? Gave up, and cleaned everything up... wd 40'ed the collar and bearings...greased and put it back together. Hope to limp for a couple of weeks while I find a good deal on a new one. Have you ever had the bearings out of the tub assy? I am guessing if I could replace those bearings... the seals around the wash/basket support shaft/assy... this thing might last a while?

    thanks again for your replies!
    cheer
    steve

  • Steve Coray Sep 18, 2009

    HI Rich,
    I think I have a slight water leak...so the tub bearings are making more and more noise. I know why my wrench sent didn't get me any where... my outer tub bottom shaft area where the clutch bolts on... where the bearing lock nut is... does not have the outer ears for the lock nut wrench to "stop" in... see page 48, item 24.

    Remove the Spinner Nut. Special wrench is available
    from Maytag to aid in removal. Place the Spinner
    Support Removal Tool over nut and locked in place.

    the photo showes placement of that tool. my tub doesn't have the two outer ears! So my Lock ring will not stay but... it will spin as I turn with the big spanner wrench? !! Then what?????
    Do I have an old style outer tub?

    thanks!!!
    steve
    ps. I tried to copy and paste the photo..but maybe I need to be more than a novice? :)

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  • 335 Answers


Hello srcoray,

Did you replace the clutch, just trying to get a feel for your hands on experience with the machine? If you did the work did your machine use the upper roller clutch bearing along with the clutch pulley mounted roller clutch bearing?

The FAV6800AW uses a reversing motor and motor controller that powers the motor and clutch pulley to rotate CW in Wash/Agitate cycle and CCW in Spin Cycle.

In Wash/Agitate cycle the roller clutch bearing should rotate freely CW allowing the agitator shaft to drive the transmission in wash cycle driving the tumblers to rotate only not the wash basket. In spin cycle the roller clutch bearing will lock up (one-way roller clutch bearing) driving the spinner shaft to rotate the wash basket and transmission CCW. Unless my thinking is wrong it sounds like the one way roller clutch bearing is frozen or dragging and not rotating freely in wash cycle rotating the wash basket CW. I’m an owner like you and will try to help.

Just a few other questions;

If you have a load of wet clothes in the wash basket and you select Spin Only cycle will the spin cycle complete with out dc/UC errors?

With the lid raised can you rotate the wash basket CW? It should not; it should only rotate CCW and do that with very little resistance.

Rich

Posted on May 22, 2009

  • 5 more comments 
  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jun 06, 2009

    Hey Steve,



    Yea new board format has got me screwed up. Ya can’t teach an old dog new tricks….



    I’m at work right now my real job in the Telecom Ind. the FAV6800AWW is a hobby. I’ll go for a quick response …. nothing I type out is quick :). I can’t rotate my wash basket CW by hand. I can rotate it in the CCW direction and that should be with you pinky finger only… low rotational resistance, no 800 pound gorillas allowed :). I might be able to brut force it in CW direction, haven’t really tried. With the front cover off (mine has never been put back on) and I rotate the clutch pulley CW only the tumblers rotate which is normal action. From what little knowledge I have on this machine I know of nothing that should lock up the wash basket to stop it from rotating CW in agitate/wash cycle. It simply should not rotate CW.



    So what is the problem, from what you describe I felt the one-way roller clutch bearing in the clutch pulley is frozen to the Spinner Shaft Coupler. But now I wonder if the agitator shaft is dragging (rusted up a bit) dragging as it rotates within the spinner shaft in agitate/wash cycle causing the wash basket to rotate slowly CW. Form what I can see in the SM it's a shaft within a shaft maybe bushed with a bearing. What do you think?



    If that thought is not to far out in left field I don’t believe you can't repair without replacing the Spinner Support assembly. I did see a transmission and Spinner Support assembly on ebay a few weeks ago I believe in the $135 range new never used. You will need this tool to remove the Spinner nut Spinner Tool $25 Just thinking out loud. Rich



  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jun 19, 2009

    Good Job Steve, I still believe you had something binding up with either the agitator shaft or the oneway roller clutch bearing but I could be out there in left field. I believe I can’t rotate my wash basket CW because of the normal transmission gearing resistance but again I could be in left field. Left field isn’t so bad :).

    Anyway I picked up a sweet deal on ebay, a spinner assembly which is in mint condition, a tub seal and a drive belt I now have about $200 worth of spares. Only big item I’m missing a motor controller. Blew a ebay shot for one that went for $42. Where did ya pick up your spinner nut wrench?

    Take care and good luck.

    ****



  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Sep 06, 2009

    Hey Steve sorry to hear that. I know your reach a point where you have to decide on a new course of action. Your Spinner Tool looks like the site I mentioned in my 6/6 post. If you are near the 19344 area I would bring over my spare spinner assembly and tranny to see if those would clear the issue. I agree with you on the plain vanilla $350 machine. Just a thought, when I first had the clutch issue I went to Maytag and gave them an ear full. The CSV supervisor I spoke with offered me 25% off on the purchase of one of their product line. I was looking at a $300 Maytag washer at Home Depot, just a thought. I know that may bring a foul taste to your mouth. The 1st line CSV rep is only authorized to offer 15%. Good luck to you.

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Sep 06, 2009

    Steve just another thought;
    All my spare parts came from E-Bay. If you junk the machine I would pull off the Console/Control board, the Motor and Motor controller, the TDS, the Left Hand Lid lock assembly and Drain pump/Pressure switch. If you had the patience to deal with E-Bay I feel you have close to $200 in parts.



    All my spare parts came from E-Bay. If you junk the machine I would pull off the Console/Control board, the Motor and Motor controller, the TDS, the Left Hand Lid lock assembly and Drain pump/Pressure switch. If you had the patience to deal with E-Bay I feel you have close to $200 in parts.



    Ebay listing for the Motor Control Board

    25001079

    Take care Rich.





  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Sep 07, 2009

    Hey Steve see this post where a forum member replaced a tub seal and had some issues. Turned to be what the manual recommended to check on reassembly. See page 49 of the SM last pic. You should have no problem with it.

    “”I need a spanner wrench to pick up on the outer ears of the locking nut wrench?”” I thought the $25 was for both the spanner wrench and tool insert included. Also I would replace that clutch. AZ raised the price from $48 to $75. Guess they had a run on them it’s the clutch I recommended in much previous post. Clothes Washer Clutch - 25001169

    Tub Seal item 17 and I would get the tranny O ring and have on hand just in case.

    No Mod job for me, the machine is a hobby, just trying to help folks save a few bucks on a poor design.

    Good luck Rich

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Sep 18, 2009


    Steve,

    Your are not doing anything wrong, you can’t post pic’s in the section where your comments go. You can if you post a solution, this board leaves a lot to be desired.

    Is this the tool that you have this tool GENUINE MAYTAG PARTS SPINNER TOOL KIT 12002139 the listing for machines has the FAV6800AW and FAV9800AW. This site list the same p/n Spinner Tool $25 for $25.

    See page 45 of the SM. This SM leaves a lot to be desired. I wonder if you lock the spinner plate as they show if you could then break loose the Spinner nut. It looks like there are at least two variants of the outer tub.

    Lock Spinner Position with Short Extension






    Can you send pics of the bottom of your tub to dh1200s@yahoo.com I wish I could be of more help. Rich

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Sep 18, 2009

    Post as a solution in this thread and you can insert the pic using "insert image" option. What are the 1st two digits of your s/n mine are 16 which is your series number? Just curious of your machine series defined by those 1st two digits of the s/n.

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Tub does not move during wash cycle;just keeps filling;timer jumps from 25 to 4:then drains;flashes OL(small loads)


First, OL/UL stands for "Overload", so in other words, the washer things the tub is too hard to move because it's overloaded and the motor is struggling or the unit is way out of balance causing the washer to struggle. The most common problem is a nut below the inner tub that needs to "float". Floating is when the tub fills up with water to a certain level the inner basket will rise about 1 inch from the center agitator. What this does is disengage the basket from the motor so that the agitator can rotate independently from the basket. If the basket does not float then when it tries to agitate the whole basket will turn back and forth at the same speed as the agitator and this will cause the OL/UL error code.

Nov 21, 2012 | Maytag Bravos MTW6600T Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I Have A Neptune Washer Model FAV6800AWW Have error code of LR Lock rotor? what is bad? control board ot motor or both?


Motor for the most part is bullet proof has a 10 yr warranty

I would start with front panel removal and see if you can rotate the Clutch Pulley CW the Wash/agitate direction and CCW the Spin direction. Make sure nothing is seized.

It could be an issue with the Control Board or the Motor Controller. I have working spares for all and that makes troubleshooting easier.

If you decide to troubleshoot further and try a Control Board swap (in the console) or a Motor Controller swap I would buy parts from a supplier that will allow you to return the part for refund with no questions asked.
Google this ""Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW"" a forum where I help owners of the FAV6800A and FAV9800A machines.


This is a sticky on a DIY forum at the 5th post down you can link to the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual. You can post in that forum in the Maytag washer forum for additional help. You will find a link to parts supplier.
I link you to a post on this forum where I was working with an owner who was troubleshooting issues and started throwing a LR error code. He ended up replacing both the Motor Control Board, my 1st suggestion and that did not resolve the issue. A Control Board swap in the Console resolved the issue. Maytag Neptune Top Load FAV6800AWW -- tub/motor will not spin ... I won't troubleshoot any further on this forum it's just difficult for me. Can't edit, search post and sometimes pics don't attach. There are better DIY forums out there for working on the FAV6800A/FAV9800A......just mu opinion.

Your machine more than likely is ready for an Tub Seal replacement.....Google this FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement Another forum I help owners with FAV6800A/FAV9800A machine issues........good luck.

Sep 06, 2011 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Maytag FAV6800AWW Top Load Washer installed 7/21/04 lid rusting underneath, tub rusting. What can I do if anything?


The Washer lid and top base and base cabient can be sanded primed and rattle can touch up. You won't have the nice finish.

The tub is fiber glass or some molded plastic so I assume your are speaking about the metal parts ie. lid, washer top base and cabinet.

There are some parts on e-bay from time to time such as 25001117 Lid (white) FAV6800AWW

Feb 20, 2011 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Machine rocks, all four sides, removed and oiled clutch bearings, tightened the belt, still rocks and errors out no matter the size load, machine is balanced. ?


I feel you still have a clutch problem... Did you try this test before you cleaned up and re-lubed the One-Way Roller clutches in the Clutch pulley?

From my Clutch Fix post;

Let's demystify dC and uC error codes plaguing the FAV6800A and the LCD Flavor FAV9800A

One last step before you clean up those pesky Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.

Holding what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler first picture. Insert that coupler into the Clutch One-Way Roller bearing plate.


Now while holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand as I show in the second pic with your other hand rotate the white bearing plate in the CW direction around the Spinner Shaft Coupler.

The One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate should rotate freely in the CW direction this is the wash/agitate direction.


Now rotate the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate in the CCW direction it should lock up solid.

Most times the One-Way Roller clutches will slip did it slip for you? This will cause the agitator shaft to move slightly causing slight tumbler rotation while the wash basket begins to spin up unbalancing the wash load causing big time wash tub swings and those pesky unbalance error codes.


The Control Board sees the TDS analog voltage swings out of design limit and shuts down the spin cycle. If the TDS was not working as designed the machine would walk across the room and unplug itself or self-destruct.


The Control Board programming will try several attempts to redistribute the wash load and when the magic number of wash load redistribution attempts has been reached the Control Board signals a dC or uC error code to the display. I believe the FAV9800A signals a text error to the display i.e. "unbalance condition?" or something like that.

Anyway I thought you might want a little more insight into just what is going on here. A very poor Clutch design by Maytag. Mine failed at the 3.5yr mark of service and I was not about to trash a $1K machine. Sorry to say I feel number of them do make it to the curb on bulk trash pickup day.

I call this the Spinner Shaft Coupler. Not sure what Maytag calls it.

8d3da4e.jpg

This is the One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.

While holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand rotate the white One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing plate in the CW Wash/Agitate direction with your other hand. It should rotate freely in the CW direction around Spinner Shaft Coupler.

Now rotate the white One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing plate in the CCW direction the Spin Cycle direction. It should lock up and not rotate CCW around the Spinner Shaft Coupler. If it does the tumblers will rotate slightly and cause the wash basket load to go off balance as the wash basket spins up.

If the TDS is working as designed the machine will fail in Spin Cycle with dC or uC error codes. If the One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing can be cleaned up and re-lubed you could be back in service with no cost.


9dfa818.jpg



If so what were the results?.................Rich

Oct 21, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Lr code went into service mode but wont respond to commands model #fav6800aww


Tom,

The LR error code can be a tough one to troubleshoot but I'll see what if any help I can be.

The LR code stands for Locked Rotor.
If you Power Cycle the 120VAC to the machine will the error code clear?
What cycle was the machine in when you took the error code wash, spin?
If you remove the front panel and with the 120VAC power cord removed from the service outlet can you rotate the Clutch Pulley CCW (Spin direction) or CW (wash/agitate) direction.
Sounds like you have the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual.
Let’s see if the drive system is free and not locked up…………Rich

Jul 30, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Maytag fav6800aww washer (transmission) problems


James,

“”All looked well but when the motor switched directions it locked up and started squeeling real loud and the belt was going around clutch but clutch didnt move.“”
Was this during the water fill cycle the machine? The Control Board will signal the Motor Controller to spin Motor/wash basket 50RPM in the CCW direction during water fill of the Cycle selected. This is the Spin direction of the wash basket during all spin cycles. If you can observe with the front cover off. Don’t raise the washer top from the base to far or you will spray water around the machine.

You can empty the wash tub with excess water by going into Service Mode and turning on the Drain Pump;
I would go to page 16 of the SM lower right hand part of page, Board Output Test and turn on the drain pump in service mode to pump out the tub.

Enter Service Mode by simultaneously pressing and holding the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three seconds or the display reads “00”

Pressing the Delicates key will lock the lid. Now press the Presoak key the drain pump will turn on. Stop with off button or hit the Presoak key.


What are the 1st two digits of your Serial Number that is your series number found here;

72314a8.jpg
Did your old clutch pulley use the Upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring?

With the belt off the can you rotate the Clutch Pulley by hand CW direction the Wash/Agitate direction tumblers will turn. Then rotate the Clutch Pulley in the CCW direction the Spin Cycle direction. After the Clutch Pulley is rotated a few turns the Large Wrap spring in the Clutch Pulley will come under tension and the Wash Basket will rotate CCW. Someone will have to verify that for you while you are on your knees.

I'm wondering if you have the Clutch Pulley seated properly. Sorry you wasted money on the Front Struts. Did you follow my Clutch Fix post for the Clutch maintenance/replacement?

Let’s start there and try to determine if the Clutch Pulley will turn both directions by hand. If it won’t I would reseat the Clutch Pulley and try again.

See my Clutch Fix post for reseating the Clutch Pulley and the SM on page 47. Note the 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end.

The coins are normal for us folks that don’t check pockets….:)

It’s difficult to rotate by hand the pinion gears of the tranny that drive the tumblers. I have not seen any transmission lock up to date but that is possible.

Let me know if I can help. I know you have the SM the parts view is handyif you don have Sears Parts Direct

Also how much rust on the old Clutch Pulley? You may have a slight tub seal leak and I can help you with that.

Rich

Jul 09, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Maytag neptune top loader model fav6800aww has an error code od


See if this post http://www.fixya.com/support/t4757262-i_have_a_letter_showing_and_it_say_o_d_w will get you started.


You have lost signaling from the Left Hand Lid Lock. If you want to DIY I will try to help........Rich

May 15, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

2 Answers

How do we remove the tub seal assembly on a mat12cs commercial Maytag?


This is a not a job for the back yard mechanic. There are many things that need to be done carefully. There are 3 letters missing from your model number also... However the procedure is pretty much the same for all models.

NOTE you will need a special tool to remove the stem seal. Unless you have the special tool in hand don't even bother starting the job. Tell any appliance part center you need the tool for removing an Old style Maytag tub nut and stem seal.

1. Remove the front panel
2. Remove the cabinet top / lid by removing the 2 screws in the top front corner of the cabinet. and rotate the top up 90 deg. Be careful of the lid that will swing freely.
3. Disconnect the pump inlet hose from the bottom of the tub.
4. Disconnect the water injector hose from the tub cover.
5. Remove the tub cover
6. Locate the only hex head screw in the side of the agitator and remove it.
7. Lift out the agitator
8. Using the special tool you should have in hand by now.... Remove the wash tub nut and stainless steel washer under the tub nut.
9. NOTE the distance of the inner tub from the outer tub and then lift out the wash tub
10. Next is the stem seal. You first have to remove the allen head lock screw in one of the 4 faces of the tub nut. Then again using that same special tool remove the upper part of stem seal. Be careful when lifting it as you can actually damage the grease seal in the very top of the tub seal upper portion. Once the metal upper part of the tub stem seal assy is removed... there another NOTE of caution...
11. The actual tub seal has a carbon face on the top of it and if you crack the carbon seal it your machine will leak all of the time there is water in the unit.
grab the tub seal as the very base of the seal and gently rotate and lift it off the inner tub sealing surface.
12. Install the new stem seal.... by again gripping it on the bottom only and gently rotate and push it down into place until it seats level.

Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly but make sure you INSTALL the allen lock screw into the stem seal nut face. If you don't the stem seal will come loose and your unit will leak again. Final note is during re-assembly make sure the wash tub is centered.... rotate the tub once you tighten the tub nut and make sure it is not to elliptical if you don't get it right... the machine will gyrate with use in the spin cycle.

Jan 14, 2010 | Maytag MAT12CS Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Spin cycle locks up


it is the clutch and be repalced fairly easily

Oct 04, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Maytag Neptune FAV6800AWW top loader washer


Double posting, are you still having the issue, did reseating the clutch clear the issue?

Mar 11, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

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