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My maytag washer model PAV3300AWW will not spin

My maytag washer model # PAV3300AWW does every thing but spins, the motor runs and pumps water on spin but will not spin

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  • shipmansteve May 22, 2009

    I checked the belt before I posted the question, I even tried moving the tub manually and can"t.

  • shipmansteve May 22, 2009

    would the main bearing being out still allow the washer to agitate? I thought maybe a stuck brake, I'm just not familiar with a maytag!

  • Horguss May 23, 2009

    im having almost the same problem as steve other then i can spin the bowl but the motor just hums and doesnt spin the belt, just bought and installed a new belt thinking that was the problem but it is still doing it

  • Anonymous Mar 24, 2014

    maytag washer model # PAV3300AWW won't spin out

  • Anonymous Mar 24, 2014

    maytag washer model # PAV3300AWW won't spin out and belt is not broken

  • Anonymous Mar 24, 2014

    maytag washer model # PAV3300AWW won't spin out or agitate

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  • Master
  • 1,902 Answers

Check the belt at the bottom of the machine. You can also remove the back panel. Either the belt has become stretched or broken and needs to be replaced

Posted on May 22, 2009

  • Jeremy Reddick
    Jeremy Reddick May 22, 2009

    Then it is a main bearing that has gone bad if you cannot even spin the drum by hand

  • Jeremy Reddick
    Jeremy Reddick May 23, 2009

    If it agitates then yes it could be the brake. But the way you are describing things makes me think more of a main bearing

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Here are some things for you to check out
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Motor coupler
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Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.

  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

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Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

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When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: 

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. 

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve. 

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