Question about Gateway FPD2185W 21 in. LCD Television
I have the Gateway FPD2185W monitor that had the same problems and was fixed with by replacing the 8 capacitors about a year ago. I now have a few other issues with the monitor. It has a single line down the middle of the screen, the auto rotation doesn't work and now the screen has begun to show sings of old age. It is slow to respond to the input of my mouse or keyboard. It acts like it has a problem refreshing the pixels. If I wait about 3 seconds, any input I provide appears as it should. I'm having a slow response issue. I've tested the monitor on 3 different systems, received the same results, so I know it isn't a computer issue.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Slow start
(I'm copying a guest's comment above. What Gateway told him does seem to work - although in my case, the monitor was slow to start when plugged directly into the wall, and it was immediately fixed when I plugged it back into a heavy duty power bar.)
hey, I had the same problem. Gateway told me "Plug the monitor power plug directly into a wall electrical outlet
or a different wall outlet by removing any surge suppressors." I did that and it works. It might be a certain kind of power bar they do not like. It worked for me so try that and see if that helps.
Posted on Sep 17, 2008
SOURCE: FPD2185W turn on problem
I had a similar problem... mine would work fine all day. I put it to sleep at night and when I go to wake it back up, it would come on for a second and then back off.
Here's my fix:
BE CAREFUL when popping the case open and unplugging the connectors!
Everything is flimsy and can break easy. TAKE YOUR TIME, and be very gentle.
Ikeep electronic screwdrivers, tweezers and the like for projects likethis. The connectors were a b*tch to get out. They are darn-near microscopic, so take your time and skip that next can of beer... you're going to need patience and concentration to get the little bastards out.
OnceI got inside, I found the capacitors were NOT bulged out the top,leaking, or leaning; however I noticed some of the bottoms on the canswere sticking out further than others.
Hard to say if they are bad, but it won't hurt to replace them since I'm already knee-deep into it.
There are 14 capacitors total that I replaced. You might as well do all of them.
Ok, now time to find the replacement parts:
Thenew capacitors were a bit of work to find. My local Radio Shack andtheir online store didn't have some of them, and the ones they didwasn't rated the same.
The OEM capacitors are rated 105* (1000hrs). There were a Samxon brand. According to some web sites, thesecaps are a general purpose and a lower-quality cap.
The Radio Shack ones are 85*. They would probably work, but who knows for how long.
Ifigure the OEM caps are already made by the lowest bidder, so I betternot take the chance and make it worse! Besides, Rat Shack didn't evenhave all of them.
Here is a list of the caps I found in mymonitor (your monitor may be different and you should check yoursBEFORE you order them)
* ALL OF THESE ARE RADIAL ELECTROLYTIC (aluminum can type), 105 deg. *
QTY. (1) 10 uf, 50V
QTY. (1) 47 uf, 25V
QTY. (2) 68 uf, 450V
QTY. (2) 220 uf, 25V
QTY. (8) 470 uf, 25V
I found all of the parts at Allied Electronics: https://www.alliedelec.com/
Total parts was less than $8.
Allied part #'s:
According to their specs, they are good for 2000 hours.
Digikey also had them: http://www.digikey.com
Theirprices were comparable, but I couldn't get all of the same manufacturer(not that it really matters, but I'm picky like that :) )
I took my time and I was up and running in about an hour. Most of the time was spent removing the old caps. They can be a real bear to get out if they have the sticky goo under them.
So far the monitor is running perfectly. Only time will tell if I get the power-up problem again.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 01, 2008
Very important, use a pencil iron only, you can destroy the film on the board if you use too much heat. Go for the two bulging ones first. After you remove the capacitors if the holes fill over use a straight pin or similar to open the hole to accept the new part. Also whatch for the polarity on the one you remove, should have a + sign on one side. Make sure the new one goes back in the same way.
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
SOURCE: FPD2185W Gateway Monitor
Mine sometimes had the ghosting problem. Turned out to be the cable connector. Taping the cable to the back of the monitor relieved strain on the connector and eliminated the problem. It also eliminated intermittent flickering.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
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