Question about Galaxy Freezers
Posted by Anonymous on
My name s Peter. I am a retired field service technician.
1.) First, lets check your defrost timer. You will need a small flat head screw driver. Pull your freezer out to where you can get behind it. Do not unplug your freezer yet. There is a small white box almost 2" square. On this box is a small shaft with a slot in it. Turn this dial with your screw driver slowly until your unit shuts down (Compressor not running). What you have just done is force your unit into the defrost mode.
If the unit does not shut down you have a bad defrost timer. We are not done with the defrost timer yet.
Take a break, grab a cup of coffee, allow the unit 30 minutes to defrost.
Upon returning if the freezer has defrosted you have a bad defrost timer. Unplug the freezer and replace. Easy job.
2.) Ok, not the timer. Lets check the freezer drain. At times the freezer drain freezes up. When the unit goes into defrost the condensate can not go down the drain and you build up a wall of ice behind the bottom back wall.
Unplug the freezer. Pop the setting control knob off on the lower back panel. You may need a screw driver to wedge it off. Pull the seal strips out on the 2 sides. Unscrew all of the fasteners on the back panel cover. You can not remove the cover yet. You must disconnect the temperature control. There are different mountings. Perhaps 2 screws holding the control to the back cover or a connector where you need a small screw driver to wedge them apart.
Ok, you observe a wall of ice and have a frozen drain. Do not let the freezer defrost itself, you will have a flood. Using a hair dryer and a plastic spatula melt the ice and remove it in chunks. This is a long consuming task, take you time. Be careful not to touch any of the unit components. Let the hair dryer do the work on the evaporator coil etc. Clear the drain with hot water soak up as much as you can. We do not want this to happen again - lets make a heat sink. Taking a piece of 12-14 gauge wire about 3' long, strip about 2" off one end. You should wear gloves. The fins on the evaporator coil are razor sharp. Wrap the striped end of the wire around the defrost heater (Long black bar beneath the evaporator coil). Secure it tightly. Extend the other end of the wire to your drain hole. You want to cut the wire where you strip 2" of exposed bare wire into the drain hole. So, when your defrost heater is on any ice in the drain hole will be melted. Reassemble the back panel. Plug the unit in.
3.) Huh? None of these? Well then, you have to have either a bad defrost heater or bi-metal. Be careful of the evaporator coil is razor sharp. There are two connectors on each end of your defrost heater. These connectors pull apart, they are a little difficult at times. Please wear gloves. You need a multi-meter. Set the meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). Touch the ends of the probes together, the meter should read 1.0. Insert one end of the probe into one end of the heater connector and the other probe into the other end. If the meter does not change the heater is bad. If you get a reading between 0-50 Ohms the heater is good.
4.) Not the heater!!!!! Your heater and Bi-metal work together. It is good practice when you replace one you should replace the other.
Your Bi-metal is a small canister looking item, silver color and clipped onto the tubing in the upper right hand corner. Disconnect and remove this item. Place the Bi-metal in a glass of water. Once again touch the 2 ends of the probe together, you should have a reading of 1.0. Using your meter put your probes in each side of the connector. If your meter reads '0' he Bi-Metal is good. When replacing the Bi-metal make sure it is in the original position. Make sure it is secure and not loose. You may have to bend the bottom clip to make sure it is tight.
Note: Everyone should have a multi-meter in there home. It has may uses and can save you a very expensive service call. So, next Christmas, Birthday Ect., buy your better have a multi-meter. They are not that expensive. That way you can borrow it.
Posted on Oct 27, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: upright freezer
Three things could be the problem. Most likely would be the defrost thermostat which clips onto the evaporator behind the panel in the freezer. 2nd would be the timer or control board (will have one or the other). 3rd would be a bad defrost heater. Alot of times the def. therm. will show obvious sign of being bad by the cap on top popped open. You can check resistance on the heater. Any resistance at all on the heater means it is good. If it has a standard timer turn it clockwise until it clicks. This is putting it into defrost. If the heater comes on the timer is bad. If it has a control board you would unplug the unit then unplug the power supply to the board and jump line 1 to the wire going to the heater. While unplugged from the board and jumped, plug the freezer back in. If the heater comes on then the board is bad. If you are not sure how to test replace the def. thermostat, which is the cheapest part and see what happens. Note: When conducting the test for the timer or board the def. therm. must be freezing so don't defrost first! Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 06, 2007
i dont think so i would look at the compressor kicking out on thermal overload or a faulty thermostat thermostats have two settings cut in cut out your cut in could be bad and not turning the compressor on till the temp reaches melting temps now if your hearing a click buzz then you need to look at the compressor and make sure the compressor fan is running but its not a defrost promblem
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
I unplug mine and let it take several days. You break a line or punch a hole in a line and the freezer will be ruined. Just let it thaw out on its own to prevent damage.
Posted on Feb 10, 2010
This sounds like your defrost heating coil has gon bad. Not much you can do but replace it. Please leave a good thumbs up for me for the effort. Pretty sure I'm correct on this one. The Raz Shack
Posted on Apr 21, 2010
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