Question about Bosch Dishwashers
When water is in the sump the pump drains it quickly.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The drain valve is stuck open. This is electrically operated, but may have some debris inhibiting movement. If you can physically move it (with the power off) this should repair the problem.
Posted on Apr 21, 2008
Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem. If your machine doesn't fill but your drain motor continues to hum for no apparent purpose, this may work.
I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.
Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.
STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.
To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)
Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.
I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.
Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.
Posted on May 09, 2009
This seems like the anti flood system (polystireen float / micro switch) at the base of the washer is triggered,\. This puts the washer in pump out mode and stops inlet of water via the inlet solinoid. Dry the water on the base and then check for any water leaks. (pipe leak
Posted on Jan 20, 2010
you have a leak,or the something has the float stuck in the open position. when water gets in the base the float raises and the uni automatically drain until the water is out of base. if this helps post a 4 thumbs up post
Posted on Feb 28, 2010
SOURCE: Bosh dishwasher SHU43C05UC won't
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description " won\'t finish the cycle. won\'t drain and keeps running for ever when gets to 1 min left.Hoses checked and not clogged. I was able to drain the water by doing the test run and punching the rinse and hold button" I'd say the issue is most likely with the control...unfortunately. The "1" being displayed is actually an error code associated with a heating fault.
Bosch has had a history of this exact problem I'm about to lay out for you and this is the first thing I'd be looking for if called out to service the unit with the symptoms you've described. **B/S/H/ also issued a recall on certain models between 1999 - 2006 depending on the model & serial number, and it does apply to yours....based on just the model number, but check the serial number. It applies to serial numbers betweenFD7905 - FD8505 The issue was directly related to the heating circuit (specifically the heat relay on the control) Here`s the link if you want to see for yourself **
As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).
My first suggestion would be contacting Bosch re: the recall or calling in an authorized bosch service tech. if that is an option for you and your budget however, If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself.
It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.
The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,
**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it.**
This ones new, but it's where to look...
...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed...or takes a long time as I mentioned and eventually display's "1" on units with a display.
You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.
**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**
**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**
If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.
Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further. I would recommend you contact Bosch regarding this recall, perhaps the repair will be free...but I don't speak for them.
Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.
Posted on Nov 15, 2010
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