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Honeywell thermostat th4000

Ac and fan work . Heat doesn't work

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Hard wiring on newer t-stats calls for a jumper from R to Rh. If that doesn't work, or isn't the problem then check for 24V at the unit board from W to common. If you have 24V there the stat isn't the problem. I don't know if your heater is gas or electrical, so there's not much else to say.

Posted on Jan 04, 2014

Testimonial: "Heat pump"

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  • Jonas skol
    Jonas skol Jan 04, 2014

    Just changed thermostat and unit was working fine before

  • Jonas skol
    Jonas skol Jan 04, 2014

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  • Jonas skol
    Jonas skol Jan 04, 2014

    Unit has a built in jumper between r and rh. Also I tried afterwords to jump the first two

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

chillmaster
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: I tried to replace my

Your "R" terminal is basically your "hot" and your "C" terminal is basically your "neutral" to simplify explanation. The Furnace supplies the "R" power to the thermostat and then depending on what wire the thermostat sends the power back on determines what the system does. The thermostat terminals are as follows "G" is fan, "W" or "aux" is elect heat, "Y" tells the outdoor unit to run, "O" or "B" tells the outdoor unit whether it is heating or cooling, and "E" is emergency heat. "G" should connect from the t-stat directly to the furnace and go no further. "W" or "aux" AND "E" should both connect to your "W" or "W1" terminal in the furnace, there should also be a "W" connection to the heat pump ( this allows the H/P to turn on the elect heat when the unit defrosts) "Y" and "O" or "B" may or may not connect to a terminal in the furnace, usually they just pass through the furnace from the t-stat to the H/P and get wire nutted in the furnace. Now, here is the key. As I mentioned previously "O" or "B", a system will only use one or the other. The entire industry (except for Rheem and Ruud) uses the "O" terminial which has 24v on it when you are cooling and no power when you are heating. Rheem and Ruud use the "B" terminal which is just backwards, 24v in heating and no power in cooling. This is all for a heat pump, If you do not have a heat pump, then disregard the references to "O", "B", "E", and "aux". You will have R-power on red wire, W-heat signal to furnace, G-fan signal to furnace, and "Y" cool signal to outdoor unit.

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

22yooper
  • 828 Answers

SOURCE: We have a Honeywell Chromotherm

I almost think you have no power source to the thermostat as if the power is off to the air handler unit (furnace), or the 24 volt transformer is bad. Could well be that the error codes are being powered by the battery.

Posted on Jul 24, 2008

  • 182 Answers

SOURCE: honeywell th4000 thermostat - fan

That problem is seldom the thermostat.check all fuses and breakers....if they're ok,its prolly an internal problem to the furnace.

Posted on Aug 24, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Honeywell Thermostat RTH 7500

Assumed all the wiring are correct,

to change from manual switching from heat to cool, press [system] button ( left ) to go into system setting.

then press and hold the [fan] middle button untill option display 120

use up down button to select option 300 ( Manual/Autochangeover) ,

select 0 for manual, 1 for automatic. ( read caution in page 22 of installation manual )

Good luck

Posted on Oct 14, 2008

  • 1033 Answers

SOURCE: Ruud Achiever 10 heat pump - outside fan won't shut off

Definately get this checked out. Some thing has shorted just enough to let voltage "Feed back" and keep the fan running. Could be capacitor, wires rubbed through each other, etc. A reset is a safety that is used when there is an overcurrent or over pressure situation. No reset set for this situation.
There is always an outside chance that if you touch the unit while standing on wet ground, you may get shocked. I firmly believe that something is allowing power to the fan in a feedback condition so don't let this go as it may cause damage to other parts.

Good Luck and let me know how you make out on this.

Posted on May 11, 2009

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