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I had accidentally overcharged a unit with freon one time (r410a freon), and when the unit stopped, the compressors rotor would spin backwards and make a loud "knocking" noise. This was on a scroll compressor, not a reciprocating compressor. Also, most compressors have a check valve, allowing freon to circulate in 1 direction only. And if it fails, when the compressor stops, the freon will rush opposite its normal direction of flow, and will sound off as a knocking noise(again, I've seen that on a scroll comp). That may make your indoor coil shake. I've seen/heard that make the copper lines shake but never the coil. Hope this helps! And FYI... Most ac service techs can check "superheat and subcool" as well as freon pressures. Without checking these 2 temperature measurements, we are just guessing as to how much freon is in the system. Make sure to ask politely beforehand for your service tech to do so PROPERLY when he checks the freon levels per factory specs, which should be on the units technical data located on the outdoor unit.
Pull the fridge away from the wall and inspect the compressor. Your description sounds like the compressor is hitting something. It is rubber mounted and usually can be pushed away from whatever it is hitting.You do not want to jamb something to stop the noise, as the compressor needs to move freely. Many compressors shake during start up and shutdown, and this is considered normal. Abnormal if the compressor hits something during this movement.
Good day, If it makes a loud clanking or rapping sound when shutting down, it is usually a broken spring inside the compressor itself. Pull the machine out when it is running and see if you can isolate it to the compressor itself. If that's the case, there is no way unfortunately to repair it except replacing the compressor.
it sounds like the compressor insides are loose and you will be needing a new compressor, but just check and make sure the rubber mounting feet on the outer compressor base where its mounted to the refrigerator base are all tight and the rubber shocks are all good
The compressor is that black casing you see at the bottom of your refrigerator - inside this sealed case is the motor assembly which stits on 3 or 4 springs that act like a cushion - you have a little gap at the bottom where the lubricating oil is present. Your springs have likely worn out and when the compressor shuts off the assembly is banging against the rigid casing make that loud "klonk" or bang noise. It IS normal for compressor to make some faint "tick-tick-tick...tick.....tick" when shutting off, but loud banging, bell sounds, etc, means the assembly is banging on the case from the inside - you can indeed live with the noise, your compressor will function normally, probably for months, or even years - it can also keep wearing out and one day the noise might get very loud (like a very high humming noise) - There is NOTHING that can be fixed, you either pay $400+ to change the compressor or buy a new refrigerator - If you DO replace a compressor usually the replacement will be noisier - Keep a thermostat inside your refrigerator at all time to make sure your compressor is still keeping your refrigerator and freezer cool.
the noise your hearing is a weak spring in the compressor. what happens is the compressor is a motor inside of a steel shell that spins at high rpm's when the unit shuts down and as the compressor starts to stop the weak spring is allowing the compressor motor to bang against the steel shell. around here we actually call these "Bangers". anyway the fix is obviously to replace the compressor. but considering the age of the unit you may want to move it to the garage and buy a new one for the kitchen.
Btw in my experience this does not interfere with normal operation of the unit it is just annoying. If I can be of further assistance please ask thanks Peyton
If it is the compressor making that sound,The compressor is bad.
A fan motor can as make this type of noise as well when going bad.
If it is the fan motor stopping,this will also shut the compressor down,due to the thermal overload protection.
Have someone check the run capacitor of this unit. If the run capacitor is bad over shorted it can cause the unit to run and short cycle on a current overdraw. This makes for an electrical imbalance in the compressor motor. Next step is the compressor is faulty.