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YAMAHA DIGITAL PIANO-dgx 230

ONE KEY IN THE KEYBOARD IS NOT TOUCH SENSITIVE ANYMORE, BUT THE REST OF THEM ARE STILL SENSITIVE. HOW CAN I FIX THIS?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

hamhm
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Yamaha digital piano clp 170

This is a common problem with Yamaha keyboards. The problem is caused by worn-out rubber contacts in the keyboard assembly. In my old Clavinova CLP-500, there was one long rubber contact strip under the keys with two parallel strips of semiconductor material. The Clavinova circuitry determines key velocity by measuring the timing between when the key hits the first and second strips of semiconductor material. The harder you play a key, the less time it takes the key to hit the second semiconductor strip after hitting the first.
After years of playing the keyboard, the keys eventually cause tears in the semiconductor material and this messes up the timing measurement for key velocity. The only solution is to take the keyboard apart and replace the rubber contact strip with a new one.
I got rid of my CLP-500 four or five years ago and got a new CLP-170. The CLP-170 is now having exactly the same problem that the CLP-500 had. Yamaha has re-designed the rubber contacts in the CLP-170 so that there are now eight individual contact strips instead of one long one. The problem is essentially the same, though. You have to take the keyboard apart and replace the worn out rubber contacts.
Here are the part numbers for the rubber contacts that need to be replaced in the CLP-170: V8286600 Rubber Contact, 12 keys, D-C#   Qty. 6 V8286800 Rubber Contact, 11 keys, A-C#   Qty. 1 V8286700 Rubber Contact, 5 keys, D-C   Qty. 1
I suggest you also get a copy of the CLP-170 service manual, part number 001677. It has descriptions of all the steps necessary to take the thing apart and put it back together again. You'll also need a "rod" (which is just a long dowel), part number TX000670. Before you take the circuit boards off the keyboard assembly, you have to insert the dowel between the keys and the frame to keep the keys from falling back and getting in your way. A 5-foot long 1/4-inch dowel will probably work. (I haven't yet taken apart my CLP-170, and I don't have Yamaha's "rod," so I'm not sure if 1/4 inch is the right size or not. I'll report back here if it's not.)
Good luck, Howard

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

marinelvr18
  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Sticky Keys for Yamaha Digital Piano YDP-121

have you tried using the can of air. you can get it at almost any drug store walmart or kmart. just spray the can of air between the keys and they should become unstuck.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

  • 1137 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Technics digital piano with 1 dead key.

If your piano is the same as mine, there is a rubber membrane with contacts imbedded in it that sits on top of a circuit board. The key pushes the contact in the membrane onto the contact causing a note on. What happens is the cylindrical part of the membrane that holds the contact can get torn and the contact will no longer travel in a straight line to trigger the note. The entire membrane strip has to be replaced. The strip on my piano was discontinued and I had to manufacture one from an extra Roland membrane that had some bad contacts in it. You will have to contact Technicsat www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PNAEndecaSearchCmd for support. If you don't feel comfortable tackling the repair yourself consult a good piano tuner/repair place in your area for advice.

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

  • 909 Answers

SOURCE: Keys sticking on Yamaha p120 digital piano....how do I open it up

you may not need to open it up.
try using a wax based furniture polish on the keys, it will leave a layer to act as a lubricant between the keys.

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

Prestopick
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I need a service manual for Roland FP8 piano, or..

Did you ever get hold of an FP-8 service manual? The weight replacement is relatively simple: The case opens by removal of eight screws, four at each end on the underside. The top then hinges up. Keyboard assembly is removed by first unplugging the two white ribbon connectors at the center, then removing the screws at the front edge (underneath) and the screws (gold) at the back of the assembly (accessible from the top). Keys pop out by spreading the two "wings" at the pivot point, and then the weights (Roland calls them "hammers") lift out. Roland will sell you new ones, but I have no idea whether the replacements are any better than the originals. I've done two of these pianos so far, and have a third waiting to be worked on. I do have a service manual, but I think I downloaded it freebee somewhere.
The other failure mode on this piano is the electolytic coupling caps on the output board - I've replaced all of them on both pianos - don't remember the value offhand.
Paul Prestopino presto11@verizon.net

Posted on Nov 19, 2009

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