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Re: husqvarna 130 governor
The governor is there for a reason, to keep the engine from over-reving and self destructing. Sure, you can get more speed by removing/raising the rpm's, if you want your rod to end up sticking out through the back of the engine case.
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The governor shouldn't need to be adjusted unless it has been bumped or removed. But, if your sure the problem is the governor, you adjust by moving the governor arm in the direction that opens the throttle valve all the way open. Remove air cleaner and filter to inspect while doing this to make sure. Then note that direction, keep in this position, then loosen small nut on governor linkage at base of unit. With a needle nose pliers, turn small center shaft of governor linkage(the part that leads inside engine) in same direction you moved the linkage in earlier step. While holding in place tighten small jam nut. This is called a static set, which is a factory standard. Also, make sure throttle cable is in wide open position when doing this. Good luck.
First check for the obvious... fresh fuel? clean air filter? carburetor mounting bolts/nuts tight? cylinder head bolts tight? crank case bolts/nuts tight?
Now to adjust the governor:
Find where the governor shaft comes out of the engine... loosen the nut and bolt on the governor arm clamp (where the governor arm clamps to the governor shaft). Gently pull the governor arm back until it stops, Gently turn the governor shaft the same way (some have a slot for a screwdriver or a hex-head for a nut driver to hold the shaft at it's closed position) as you pull the governor arm. Both the arm and the shaft must be at their full stop of travel while you tighten the governor arm clamp. It may take another person to lend a hand to keep the governor arm at the closed position while you tighten the clamp.
If the motor runs good at a low rpm, I want to say your problem lies somewhere in the governor. As you put load or strain on the engine the governor should increase the throttle speed on the motor. My guess is a wire, cable or something is rubbing on the linkage from the governor to the carb, if not the governor my need readjusted. I hope this helps.
The governor regulates the engine speed and when a load is applied that would slow the engine it is the governor's job to open the throttle to maintain the speed. It also limits the maximum engine speed to a safe level. As a user of the machine you should have formed an idea about whether the governor is working correctly.
If the governor linkage moves freely against the spring(s) and the maximum revs of the engine are about right no adjustment should be attempted and the fault probably lies elsewhere, most likely fuel starvation though bad ignition or valve timing, tight valve clearances or partially blocked exhaust can affect power output.
A back-to-basics approach is usually the best if the problem has built gradually but if it happened suddenly I suggest you begin by thoroughly cleaning the carb.
The engine revs are turned down to make the machine noise compliant, increasing the revs will greatly increase the noise, the engine revs shouold not realy be increased, however a dealer with a suitable engine taco may do it for you, it is very important not too over speed the engine or it will self destruct,
a mechanical gov can use springs or fly weights to control the amount of fuel delivered at a given rpm. an electronic does basically the same thing but with the use of speed sencers and cervos that can control fuel, spark, and timeing. the first is a straight forward approach and has worked well over the years. but the secound is more precise and adjustable withe the stroke of a key board. as to which is better, that depends on the application. mechanical works off engine rpms and takes abuse well but can only regulate speed useing rpms so if you have more gears the faster you can go. where as the electronic uses speed sencors that pull info from the trans or wheels and will only let you do the speed set by the computer