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Clean sweep claw machine. Looking for manual. Lights come on but timer doesn't. I have 1 wire going to a fuse holder but no wire goes on? I'm sure this needs to make a loop

I replaced fuse and timer came on claw went done and when it went back up it got tangled. Never came on again?

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SOURCE: Hoover TCE660 tumble - no heat

Common faults -
1 The heating elements can fail (meaning open circuit)
2 There are cut-outs (T.O.C's) that might need resetting
3 The thermostats (stats) can trip out or burn out (meaning opencircuit)
4 Moderntumble dryers also have sensors and pcb's (Printed circuitboards) thesehave programs that can fail and circuitry although most should produce an errorcode showing you were the fault is.
5 Faultyconnections and burned wires may also be the fault.

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Posted on Jan 13, 2010

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SOURCE: We have a Clean Sweep Arcade size claw game,

99% of the time, if you've made sure the switch and wires complete the circuit, take the top cover off of the claw assembly, and look for a broken off wire. Check the connections, sometimes the wire can be broken from the connector (usually no connector, you have to solder it back on). Just make sure those wires are making connection, the clean sweep games specifically have this problem, and it is almost always one of these wires. You can even do a google search of "Clean Sweep Crane claw won't grab", and see where others have discovered this same issue and solution.

Posted on Apr 14, 2011

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2 Answers

Where is fuse located

Leonard, first, unplug the microwave and then turn it around so that you are looking at the back of the unit. Take the screws out that hold the cover onto the unit, most will be accessible from the back, but some may be on the side as well. Once you have all of the screws out you can remove the cover and set it aside. Find where the power cord goes into the back of the unit and follow the black wire from the cord to where it stops. Usually it will go either to a circuit board where your fuse will be located or it will go directly to the fuse holder. The holder could be a block mounted to the unit or it occasionally goes to an in-line fuse holder. The fuse will be stamped with the amperage rating on one end of the fuse on the metal collar. You need to make sure that you replace it with the same amperage fuse. Hope this helps!

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I'm constructing a pair of custom light tubes aircraft aluminum housings with 6' acrylic pipes shooting up to the ceiling I'm using a mixture of bulbs from M13 70 watt halogens to 75 watt black spot lights...

The breaker (or fuse) in your house wiring will handle the dimmer switch if it goes "haywire", but will NOT protect your project if your project goes "haywire".

Yes, put a properly rated fuse or breaker AFTER the dimmer and BEFORE your project. Keep it close to the total maximum load your project will draw, and you will likely be as protected as you're going to get.

(Yes, the fuse or breaker goes on the "Hot" wire only, the juice to the load [the lights] goes through the it)

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Hi Tom - I located a source for you to download a copy of the manual for this timer, here. This timer has several variations - which can not be determined with 100% certainty by me from the info you provided in your question, but I believe your application is the large, bottom schematic called "Filter and Cleaner Timer Inter-connections".

If a 240 volt circuit, both the power source and motor load should consist of 2 hot wires and a single bare, green or green & yellow striped ground wire. The 240 power source wires connect to terminals 1 & 3 and the 240 volt sweeper motor would connect to terminals 2 & 4. It does not matter which of the supply wires connects to terminal 1 or 3 - nor does it matter which motor's wires connects to 2 or 4. It is not possibly to change the direction that the motor turns by swapping wires in the timer. The green (ground) wires must all be connected together.

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Project is not clear.
Are you replacing the timer with a switch?
I have complete files on timers, so if you are replacing the old timer with a new timer, then add a comment and say which timer you are installing.

You have 3 cables. Assuming 120Volts.
Each cable has 1 black and 1 white and 1 ground.
White wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Ground wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Black wires are next:

(A) Cable A:
One of the three cables will have a black wire that connects to both the switch and to the timer.
So look for the black wire that connects to both switch and to timer.
This is the hot wire from breaker box. Connect this black wire to both switches including new switch.

(B) Cable B: One cable goes to garage lights. Black wire going to garage lights connects to on-off switch.
So the garage light switch has 2 black wires: 1 black wire from cable A, and 1 black wire from cable B going to light.

(C) Cable C: One cable goes to outdoor lights. Black wire going to outdoor lights connects to new on-off switch.
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Dryer just stopped working. Light still come on. Timer sounds like its works. Door clicks when closed. The clothes were almost dry. Do you thik this could be a thermal fuse?

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