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Maytag Dryer MDG400BWW

Dryer works but won't stop after cycle completes

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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frankgant
  • 250 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune dryer timer won't stop

If the timer is not stopping as it goes around then it's for sure the timer. The timer does pretty much all the work with controlling the dryer. And if it's physically not stopping going around then it has broken.

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

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WRMtech
  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: during the drying cycle, the dryer door opens

Chances are the little plastic latch keep is broken. Look at the door and locate a peice that will press into the front area where the clothes go in.
Once you see it, check the keeper and see if it is broken. The door should not just pop open.

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

wheelshot
  • 102 Answers

SOURCE: maytag dryer stopped working in middle of cycle

I think that the most likely thing that has happened is that the cord has shorted at the terminal block. Disconnect the power from the wall and then pull the cover off the back of the dryer and I think that you will find the problem there. It will be obvious.

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

mrfixit3667
  • 262 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag electric dryer (PYE2300AYW) does not stop on auto cycle.

Either the control board or the humidity sensor is bad.

Posted on Jan 11, 2010

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Maytag Performa

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

The wiring diagram is here:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?diagram_id=28505914&pkw_=basket&model_id=46651&NewWindow=1

Possible causes...

1. The heat selector control L-1 ((RED is input power)) to C, to the safety themostat
You should read C of the heat selector control to terminal 3 of the motor switch.
ALSO you should read terminal 1 of the heat selector control to terminal 3 of the motor switch.
2. The 377K ohm resistor
3. Motor switch terminals 3 - 4 (You can bypass this by having someone squeese the brown disk on the back of the switch) Or jumper it
4. Timer Heating element Power from terminals H and R.

Make sure you have 230 VAC input power on the terminal block where the power cord connects L 1 to L 2 (outside 2 terminals) If you only have 115V across L1 and L2 reset the circuit breaker. If you still do not have 230VAC inspect the wall recepticale.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on May 27, 2011

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