Electronic control for the top burners on left side when I turn on front burner the back burner shows like it's turned on too

First, try to light the burner in question with a match. Just hold a match to the burner, then turn the gas on to low. If the burner doesn`t light, the problem is the gas supply to the burner. Next, lift the top cover and put the prop rod in the hole in the cover to support it. Hold a match to the left-front burner. Now, turn the control knob to "light". You should see the igniter spark and hear a snap. If this doesn`t happen, repeat this step with the left rear burner. If you hear the spark and snap.
If the igniter doesn`t work on the front left burner, but does on the rear left burner, the igniter does work. The problem is likely the control knob for the left front burner. The. Control knob includes the electrical switch the activates the igniter when you turn on that burner.

Pull out the bottom drawer and you will find the spark module. I strongly suspect it is weak. Here is a video that shows operation:
This one shows the module on the backside but I looke dup yours and it is below in the backside of the bottom drawer. Ok here is what i think The igniters could be dirty and I have a video showing how to check that plus another video to show how to remove those pesky switches on the top burners and spark module operation.

TOP BURNER SPARK IGNITION

SEALED BURNER SCREWUP


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

All ignitors should fire regardless of which burner is turned on. See if the right front will light up if you turn on another burner or look for a spark. If not, the ignitor is probably fouled and needs a good cleaning. If the right front burner will spark or ignite when a different burner is turned on, it is the right front control switch - not an easy fix. When cleaning the cook top, if you remove the knobs, any liquid that gets into the switches will short them out. Found that out the hard way.

Hi Krista,

Unfortunately, F1 is a fault code for a failed electronic control... it'll have to be replaced. The reason the burner is on is that the relay controlling it has welded closed allowing power to the burner full time.

If you choose to repair this yourself, could you provide the model number? That way, I could pull up schematics and stuff I need to further help you.

SG

Could you find the completer mode number because the number listed above your post is for a gas oven.
Look at following areas for the model number

• Under Right Front Burner
• Under Left Top Burner Front Or Rear
• Under Main Top Left, Rear Or Center Front
• Under Left Rear Or Right Front Element
• On Nameplate Inside Burner Box
• On Front On Burner Box Bottom
• On Nameplate On Oven Door Liner
• On Main Front Behind Oven Or Compartment Door
• On Front, Center Bottom Of Burner Box
• On Thermostat Cover Under Main Top
• Thank You, Sea Breeze

It sounds like the left front control or element has a high resistance short.

If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Look at the back of your range there should be schemetic for your power control board. look for defective burner wire going into relay. There should be 5 relays in rows. Realy is the problem. I had the same problem with my front left burner stuck on high.
After replacing everything works okay.

I would first check the infinite control switch (#WB24T10029) the part the knob slips onto. The next thing I'd check is the erc (#WB27T10231) control board. Hope that is helpful!

The left side is set for your grill. There is apparently a switch under the left side top / front of the cooktop. The aeration tray has a prong on one end that fits into a hole in the front end of the burner basin and activates the switch which stops the fan from coming on when using the burners and allows the fan to run when using the grill. Try switching sides with the aeration trays as one might make better contact than the other.