Question about Bernina Bernette 75
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Are you sure that a stitch is being created each time, or is it missing some....
On a scrap, sew a zigzag to ensure that at least the stitches are being formed, if not, or missing some, look to timing.
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !
If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au
Posted on Feb 24, 2008
Bottom looping says upper tension problems (too loose). Rethread it making sure the presser foot is up so the thread is inbetween the tension discs.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
SOURCE: bernette 90E
Our Bernette E90 timing was off due to a jam (design flaw I think)...Instructions on how we fixed it.
1. To correct timing, tip over machine and unscrew inspection plate.
2. Find the gear and unscrew the 2 grub screws so the gear is free from the shaft
3. Turn the main sewing machine handle to manually get the hook (pointed piece) of the housing (see arrow) to be directly behind the needle
4. Hold it the tightly, and turn the handle again, the needle should be able to go up and down while holding the hook in position.
5. When the needle is at it lowest and starting to move back up and the hook is directly behind tip the machine over and tighten the 2 grub screws on the gear underneath.
6. Replace inspection cover and you’re done
Posted on May 02, 2010
I can help you with your 334D as I have the same machine; there is several ways to adjust the stitching width but firstly check the stitching finger position is forward not back for rolled hemming. There is a little lever that is on the side of the cutting plate just in front of the foot and feed dogs, you need to push this forward; this inserts a stitching finger into the needle plate and the overlock seam forms around it. When you pull it back the finger retracts to form rolled hemming where you want the fabric to roll under. So hopefully this is all that is happening now with yours but I'll go through the whole process for clarity and others.
This is how I set up for a new fabric project. Turn the tension dials for all four threads to 5. Your needle tensions should not need to be changed often; perhaps just if from the right side of a seam you can see the needle stitch, you may tighten it fractionally. Stitch length knob on the side by the flywheel should be on about 2 and a half and the differential knob on zero also.
Now you want to adjust the cutting blade position firstly to get the width of seam best suited to the weight and type of fabric you are going to seam. If you are going to use the overlocker to join two pieces of fabric in a 4 thread seam to assemble a garment, then always test with two layers too. And if you are going to just neaten a single layer seam allowance, then test on just a single layer and set up for that.
I'm assuming you are seaming 4 thread but the comments are the same for the 3 thread, you just take out the left or right hand needle first or just cut the thread to that needle and leave it in place to get the 3 thread stitch. (Obviously if you are seaming something delicate like silk, take the unused needle out as it will leave holes in your fabric. Be careful when changing needles, use tweezers to hold the needle right up into the housing and never unscrew the screw too far, just enough to get the needles in and out. And always manually turn the flywheel towards you through a stitch sequence afterwards to make sure you've got the needles clearing the loopers, if you hear them touching, recheck needles are fully into housing.)
If you are seaming something light then you'll want a narrower seam. Have you moved your blade before? If not, you need to turn the needle to the highest point, open the front cover and raise the pressure foot and swing it to the side so you can see better. Now put pressure on the upper cutting blade towards the right to release the spring on it, then swing it upwards out of the cutting position. Adjust the position of the lower fixed blade by turning the knob that is nearby to it. You'll see the blade moving over. Once you get used to making this change, you can just put pressure onto the upper blade to release it with one hand, and turn the knob to move the bottom blade with the other.
If you move it towards the right it will trim further away from your needles giving you a wider seam and if you move towards the left you'll get a narrower seam, ie it cuts closer to the needles. So set it to the position you want depending on what you are seaming. Now relower the upper blade into position, swing pressure foot back into place and test stitch again on fabric offcuts. Take a look at the seam. Is the fabric "tunnelling" inside the seam? if so, release the tensions on the upper and lower loopers by a half increment only. Test again. Repeat process until tunnelling is gone and fabric is sitting flat inside the threads.
If the threads are looping off the edge of the fabric, then increase the tensions on the upper and lower loopers by a half increment only. Test again. Repeat process until the threads are sitting right up against the cut edge, and meeting right on the edge.
That is basically it - please feel free to ask me again for more help is this hasn't been clear or you still struggle with this machine. I presume that you don't have the instruction manual for it so I could scan a page or two if this will help.
This is a really good quality overlocker so don't give up on it; it sounds like you have just never been shown how to use it fully or never had the manual; consider purchasing one from Bernina or online as it is very instructive. If you find that you still struggle with getting the stitch tensions right, its a good idea to spend an hour or two with some calico and thread it up with four different coloured threads like the diagram inside the looper cover, then make stitching samples and adjust until its right. You can make a four thread, three thread wide with left needle, three thread narrow with right needle, 3 thread rolled hem and flat lock. Write down the tension numbers, stitch length and blade position onto the fabric sample and keep these in a note book for future reference. This will help you to remember what you need to change when you want to use that stitch type again.
And my last suggestion, if you can find a good sewing machine dealership or fabric store that runs classes, see if they run one for "introduction to overlockers" - I took a class from the Bernina dealer I bought my machine from back in 1992 and it was fantastic. I've used mine for bridal veils with fishing line, made table cloths, curtains, cushions, sewed dozens of knit garments for the kids and made most of my own clothes with my trusty Elna and this overlocker; its a very strong machine and better quality than many others on the market.
Posted on Oct 10, 2011
If you are using buttonhole twist or heavy topstitch and normal thread underneath machine tensions wont like it. Try using regular thread top and bottom but use two same colour on top and thread both through needle but put one either side of tension discs if you can. Top stitching jeans is problematic for manymachines even Berninas
Posted on Jan 13, 2012
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 12, 2016 | PfaFF Sewing Machines
Aug 17, 2016 | Sewing Machines
Apr 24, 2016 | Sewing Machines
Aug 05, 2013 | Bernina BERNETTE 65 Mechanical Sewing...
Aug 23, 2010 | Singer Sewing Machines
Oct 16, 2008 | Singer 7422
Mar 29, 2017 | Janome Hello Kitty 11706 Mechanical Sewing...
27 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: