Question about Sewing Machines

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No adjustment on the thread tensioner on a jones vx707

I cant work out why the tensioner unit doesn't slacken off on it's lowest setting, it seems that the spring keeps the tension on all the time.

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  • rachel thompson
    rachel thompson Jan 04, 2014

    my Jones vx 707 machine is a good machine, it normally works o.k, however when I sometimes go to adjust the thread tensioner when I want to use different thichnessess of thread, the adjuster doesn't seem to slacken off. I turn the dial but the tension still remains tight on the two metal discs what the thread passes through. I have removed the unit, everyhing seems o.k, no dirt or anything, it seems that the spring just stays tight regardless of where the dial is set.

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  • Expert
  • 276 Answers

Does the tension release when you lift the pressure foot?

Posted on Feb 21, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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redbeard00
  • 957 Answers

SOURCE: Thread tension for Brother XL 2230.

If you have pattern dials set correctly then I might guess that one or more sets may have been missed when the thread was being set up in the machine. most of these models show either arrows or numbers for each or way the thread needs to be routed.

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: janome 9500 bobbin tension too tight can I adjust it

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle, 
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects). 

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension. 

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean 
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits) 

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned. 

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all 
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at 
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is, 
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine 
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover ! 

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with 
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the 
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !
 
 

www.bargainbox.com.au 

Posted on May 01, 2009

Zenqi
  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: the top thread keep breaking. should the tension

Thread breakage is usually due to the needle in backwards, upper tension too tight or old/weak thread.

When replacing the needle, make sure that the flat side is to the right (3 o'clock position) and is pushed all of the way up before tightening.

What brand and weight of thread are you using and are you sewing with the foot or free motion sewing?

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: Tension

I answered this a couple days ago but don't know if it went through. I can sew through 6 or more layers of denim with my 226, no problems at all. In my 30 years in the upholstery business I never had a problem sewing leather, vinyl, canvas or multi-layers of fabric. The 226 Consew, the 111W and 211w Singers I had presented zero problems with heavy fabrics - and I don't consider vinyl "heavy".

You need to first of all check threading. If the machine's threaded wrong you're break thread. Also you need to oil under the bobbin case and the bobbin hook and the rest of the parts as well.
Then, loosen thread tension on top by turning the knurled knob that's on the spring that's holding the tension discs. Also loosen bottom tension on the bobbin case by turning the small, left-most screw on the outside of the bobbin case counter-clockwise. Do both with the presser foot down. Pull the thread(s) out and feel the tension. You should be able to pull the threads out with some little effort. Tighten both a little at a time until you get some tension. Run a couple seams and check where the threads meet in the fabric. They should meet in the center. Also check stitch length. If you're using 92 thread (is should be left twist), you should run the machine at about 6 - 7 stitches/inch. I'm running my machine at 5 - 5 1/2 with #69 nylon bonded, and 6 - 6 1/2 with #11 mono.
One more thing; if tension's too loose at the bobbin or top, the machine will jam in the bobbin and thread will break.
Go to www.consew.com and download a pdf owner's manual for free. You need to click on the 224. That machine, the 225 and 226 are the same.

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: Pfaff 1475 tension problem.

Many users also reported similar bobbin tension adjust problems. But do you know it can be fixed by yourself? I suggest you to order the following product:
Sewing Machine Repair Guide
It's a professional repair guide written by an expert. Besides PfaFF sewing machine, you can learn how to repair other brands of sewing machine as well. The author claims that you can earn money after you had learned the repair skills!
Good luck.

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

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