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Lt460blws1a No back lights on. when I apply negative voltage to BL on/off terminal its light and suddenly of. But always BL on/off voltage is 4.0V

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With headlights on and brake pedal depressed, center rear brake light comes on. Rear lights go off. Fuses seem fine. Any ideas?


Normally when you apply a higher amperage load to anypart of your 12volt electric system. The Load or amperage needs a very good ground.
I would suspect you either have a loose/weak/dirty ground connection somewhere either in your harness or all the way to even a dirty battery connection.
Try to use a jumper ground wire directly to a clean metal surface neer the rear lights that are going off when you hit the brakes and the window/middle brake light comes on. Anytime you have electrical issues, always clean your battery and make sure you have full voltatge connections on both the Postive side and the negative ground side. Check the voltage on the light socket as well, if you suspect a low voltage situation. Also check all light bulbs for clean light bulbs grounding and terminals. Good Luck

Feb 28, 2015 | 2002 CHEVROLET EXPRESS 3500

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Using a test light, the wire shows to be "hot". however, when I connect to the fixture, nothing happens. When I place the test light on the place where the wires connect it will not work, but if I d


HI Jack,

Can you give more details? Is this a house circuit that you are working on, or some vehicle?

In either case, look thoroughly through the ground side, or common side.
With 120 volts, it is possible to have voltage present, sensed with a voltage "sniffer" (needs no direct contact, works by induction) and no go of what you are powering.. My guess is this is not the type of circuit you are working on.

With 12 volts, it is possible to have power, and read with a test light type of tester or VOM. Again, look at the ground side.

SO, another possibility is that you have a "cold" circuit. This type of failure is because of poor, damaged or corroded connections somewhere in the circuit. With this type of failure, you often can get a valid voltage reading, but the circuit fails when actual load is applied.
To find this type of failure (IN 12 VOLT systems), hook up the thingy that you are trying to power, set VOM to enough range, and check along each leg: Positive and Negative. Point to point. one end goes to Positive battery, for example, then you probe just after each POSITIVE connection, along the circuit. What you are looking for is a voltage. for example: a poor connection would have zero volts read on one side of the connection, but 2 volts just after the connection.
So, the quick way is positive battery terminal, to your device, then negative terminal to the negative on your device. One will give large reading. Investigate that 1/2 of the circuit, and you will find you issue.
Hope this helps, if not, get back to me.
Doc

Dec 01, 2014 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Front parking lights stopped working. Checked all fuses with tester under bonnet and inside car. All fuses and relays etc tested aok. All other lights function well. I traced the parker lights green wire...


Not the switch, or the rears would not be working. Since the green wire powers the rear lights, it has power. So maybe it's the ground connection to the front lights, right? Do you measure battery voltage on the green wire at the back of the light socket connector? If yes, then try moving your negative lead to the w/bl terminal of the connector...

Jul 11, 2017 | 1999 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Car wont start but batterys good


A fully charged battery does not mean that its amperage output is adequate, have it tested at an auto parts store. While your problem could be battery, wiring, key switch, solenoid, starter or maybe really cold outside, best to start with simplest first, clean the battery terminals and cable connectors with a terminal brush tool and install anti-corrosion impregnated felt rings on each terminal. With the battery terminals disconnected, also unbolt and clean the solenoid and starter terminals too and re-tighten. Then find the "ground" connections from the negative battery cable to the metal chassis and from the engine to the chassis, unbolt, clean, sand clean each if necessary and reinstall. If when using a voltmeter there is any reading between the engine block and the negative terminal of the battery, installing an extra ground cable directly between the engine block and the negative battery terminal connector. When reinstalling battery terminals, install positive terminal first, place socket slightly larger than battery terminal on top of it and lightly tap to fully seat the cable connector on the battery terminal before tightening. Tighten snug enough that cable connector does not move on the battery terminal, do not over tighten. Beware of battery acid and accumulated corrosion, wear eye protection and protective gloves too and be aware that battery acid eats holes in clothing and cloth gloves. If problem persists, a DC voltmeter most useful to determine if when key turned to start, there is voltage applied to the solenoid. If yes, then to check if solenoid operates upon key turn to "start" applying voltage through solenoid to starter. If yes, and if battery amperage output tested "ok" then starter may need to be replaced.

Mar 19, 2014 | 2003 Honda CR-V

1 Answer

I am having issues with my tail light. The brake light remains brightly lit, even when the brakes are not applied. Basically, I have no running light to the tail light. Do I just need to replace the...


With the bike running and the lights on, pull the bulb and put the positive probe of a voltmeter on first one of the non-ground connections in the socket, then the other (with the negative probe grounded, of course).

If one has 12V and the other does not, put the probe on the one that does not, and operate the brakes. If that button in the socket shows 12V with the brakes on, and 0 with them not applied, everything works good to that point. You either have a wierd bulb, or it was crammed in wrong.

If both buttons have 12V all the time, you have a problem that is not associated with the bulb, but with the wiring or one of the brake light switches.

Disconnect both brake light switches, and see if you now only have voltage on one of the socket buttons. If so, connect one of the brake light switches. No voltage? the other switch is acting up. Got voltage? The switch you connected is acting up. Disconnect that switch and connect the other to make sure it isn't acting up as well.

If you have voltage on both buttons with the BL switches disconnected, you have a wiring problem. Find out what the color code for the brake-light wire is, and start tracing it down.

Jun 27, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FXST - FXSTI Softail...

1 Answer

I have a 1995 Eagle Talon and the car will not start, after just getting it back from the shop. The car would start with a jump, but need a jump if not started within 24 hours. This was advised to the...


Check the voltage on the battery by connecting a meter in voltmeter mode across the terminals, lower than 12.2 volts if it is dead. Make sure all lights (door closed etc) are off. Now put your meter into ammeter mode between the negative lead and the negative battery terminal, note the amps (should be very low). If you have any current drain remove the fuses one at a time and note any sudden drops. The fuses that results in the most current drain is the one that is draining your battery. Glove box and trunk interior lights failing to go off when they should are classic battery killers Get the car started with jump leads. When it is idling put a voltmeter again across the battery terminals the voltage should between 12.4 and 14.4 volts. Switch on all the lights heating etc and note the voltage. If it is maintained your alternator is OK. Once you have removed any electrical gremlins then it will be appropriate to check out any other issues

May 26, 2010 | 1995 Eagle Talon

1 Answer

What could be causing my 1969 Mustang to have sudden, complete electrical failures. The car shuts off and I have no dome light or headlights...nothing ! I can usually get the car started back up in a few...


Am inclined to say loose battery terminal or battery cable at starter loose. Clicking noise produced by low voltage at soleniod and not enough to engage.Check positive and negative connectins at both ends.

Apr 26, 2009 | 1966 Ford Mustang

3 Answers

Engine light 2006 pontiac g6(reset)


first be sure that its the engine light and not the "service" light. the service light will usually illuminate if its time for an oil change. if its the service light ur owners manual should tell u how to reset it. if its ur engine light then try disconnecting ur positive battery cable for 1 minute. that should reset ur ecm and get rid of the engine light. if the engine light comes back on then have a diagnostic scan done to determine whats causing it. LJ

Dec 29, 2008 | 2006 Pontiac G6

1 Answer

Engine suddenly dies, all electrical goes out as well


Sounds to me like a poor battery cable connection. I am not familiar with the BMW cable routing but it should be simple enough to follow and repair.

First disconnect the negative cable from the battery and leave it disconnected until the final step.

Dicsonnect the positive battery terminal, clean the battery and cable terminal with a wire brush or light sand paper. Apply some dieletric grease or light coat of chasis grease and reconnect the cable to the battery. Follow the positive cable and do the same procedure to all connections down to the starter. Along this route you may notice a smaller wire connected enroute with a fusable link or fuse. Make sure to check these for loosness and or melted wire coating this can be a sign of a loose connection and your problem.

With the positive cable connections completed and reinstalled. Do the same to the negative cable, remembering not to reconnect the negative terminal to the battery until the very last step.

Sorry I don't have more knowledge of the wiring on the BMW.

Hope that helped.
Good Luck

Nov 24, 2008 | 2006 BMW 545i

2 Answers

Voltage unstable - need help analyzing


but lately it has been more varied. Basically voltage is low at start-up (typ. 11-12V) and it doesn't increase with engine rpm. But switching the lights off for a few seconds always brings the voltage up to a higher level (13-14V) it only falls slightly when the lights are turned on again. It then (usually) sinks slowly and lights off-on will (usually) bring it back up again. Does this behaviour indicate where the fault is?,Sounds like the battery is on the way out.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2001 Moto Guzzi California 1100 E.V.

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