Hello I bought a new JV-TV2042 system, when I plugged the cameras and connect it didn´t operate (the screen doesn´t turn on), I bougth it in a city and delivery to a 280 Km another city, I ask to the technician what happen and we can see the board has not the C405 capacitor, could you help me to know the value to insert and solder it, we think it was a assembled mistake.
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Re: it has not the C405 capacitor
If your are a technician , you will be able to do that. remove the back, carefully remove the main board, plug the tv. with the multimeter on DC voltage, check the voltage at that point . If you find a 10V , the capacitor will be 16V, if 12V the capacitor will be 25V. in general the capacitor have to be electrolytic and have more than 470microfard.
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Hi, You will have to take the back off and look at the main power board. Make sure the plug is out when you do this. Look at the capacitors. If you are not teck savy get help.
When cost of parts ar more than a new TV then go buy a new TV.
I just fixed one JV-TV2040 monitor that worked intermittently. Turns out the AC power adapter was bad. The wire was cracked inside the strain relief where it goes into the adapter. You can either replace the adapter with a suitable replacement or do like I did and carefully hacksaw the case open, chop out about 4 inches of bad cable, and resolder to the circuit board. I glued the repaired unit back together with silicone glue.
Hello; This is an older 27 " CRT set that has no vertical sweep. This is likely caused by a bad vertical output IC or cracked solder connections on it. It can also be caused by bad capacitors or other components. Some of these sets have an internal "service switch" to set CRT beam currents. If someone has had the set apart and set the switch in the service position, you will get the one H line. Just put back to normal and pix will be back. John
The issue you describe is consistent with a power supply board issue. This is the board where the AC goes to. This problem may have occurred as a result of irregular power supply, or excess power supply or power surge.
The TV is receiving current but cannot circulate or transfer the current to other necessary part of the TV because of the defective power supply board.
I do not think it needs replacement, rather some defective capacitors are causing this issue. Open unit up and take a look at the power supply board.You will probably see one or more electrolytic filter capacitors that are bulged up in the top-not perfectly flat like the others.
The value of these capacitors will be different, most likely they will be somewhere around-820 to 2200uF/25 V( or /10V sometimes)
You can replace them with same values but I would recommend the voltage rating to be higher(like 35V for an original 25V) for reliability purposes.
What happens is,these bulged top capacitors will cause a low and unfiltered DC voltage=main board will malfunction(the relay will keep clicking until the caps are holding enough charge to bring the voltage up over a threshold point).
You can buy these capacitors at any Fry's or Radioshack store or you can order them online at vendors like "mcmelectronics.com"(look for electrolytic capacitors). After replacing these capacitor(capacitors) most likely the normal operation will be restored.
Note: There may be also some other causes for this symptom ,like a defective T con board ,or main board,but the bulged top capacitors are the most common cause for this issue.
If you don't know about TV repairers, take the TV to the nearest repairman to fix the fault for you. Also, note that TV stores a lot of current, so wait a while before opening the TV back cover.
The power panel is faulty that is why the television is not getting power from the socket.
Turn to the back of the television, then you unscrew the screws, after doing that, trace the cord that is plugged to the panel it is connected to on the inside part of the television, you will se it attached to a panel, the panel is what you are to check.
It will either have bad capacitor or will look burnt, so either ways, you try to replace the power panel and it will be in good condition once again.
I have my handheld Casio TV-980 up and running with a
converter box. All I needed (in addition to the converter box and standard
rabbit ears [UHF/VHF] antenna) was an adapter with an F jack on one end and a
1/8" plug on the other (Radio Shack catalog # 278-257, about $5). The
1/8" plug on the adapter goes in the external antenna jack on the TV, and
the other end connects to the coaxial cable that connects to the TV (RF out)
jack on the converter box. The adapter would have been a little cheaper at my
local, independent electronics store, but they were sold out.
If your antenna has flat 300 ohm wire connections, you'll
need a balun (Radio Shack catalog # 15-1297, about $8) to connect it to the
coaxial cable that goes to the Antenna (RF in) jack on the converter box.
I’ve tried 2 different converter boxes with the handheld
TV, and they both work well: Insignia (Best Buy’s house brand, same as Zenith)
and RCA (from Target, same as Venturer), so any government coupon-eligible
converter box should work.
A few other tips:
1. I always turn on the converter box before I turn on
the TV. The cpnverter box seems to take control better that way.
2. When I turn on the TV, the tuner doesn’t automatically
go to channel 3 or 4 (where it should be set when using a converter box), and
the picture quality is poor. If I use the tuner on the TV to get to channel 3
or 4, the picture quality is vastly improved. I have to do that every time I
turn on the TV.
3. Placement of the antenna is very important. I like to
watch my handheld TV when I'm on the computer, and the reception is better the
further away from the computer the antenna is located. I'm actually using a 6'
coaxial cable for the antenna, but I could also have used 2 shorter cables with
a coupler that has an F jack at both ends (Radio Shack catalog # 278-304, about
If your battery-operated TV does not have an external
antenna jack, instructions for connecting it to a converter box can be found at
First, locate the horizontal output transistor. This is found very
close to, or next to, the horizontal output transformer (also known as
the flyback). The flyback should be on an aluminum heat sink, or on the
side of the metal chassis. Disconnect or unsolder two of the three legs
of the transistor. Measure it with your meter, or plug in the set with
the light bulb attached across the fuse. If the transistor is
shorted, or the light bulb doesn’t glow bright anymore, replace the
transistor and plug back in. If the light bulb glows bright again, you
must replace both the flyback and horizontal output transistor
simultaneously. In some cases this will fix the set, but sometimes
there are multiple problems with a set. Go to where the flyback
is, and start measuring the diodes and capacitors on the flyback
itself. If you don't find any shorts there, it could be a shorted
vertical output IC, a shorted sound IC, a shorted disc capacitor in the
Hi Voltage/sweep circuit, or in rare cases, a shorted capacitor or
tuner.Feel free to ask and post whatever the result of your troubleshooting..