Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators
I have a Whirlpool model GB2FHDXWB01 and it isn't getting cold. About a week ago everything was super cold, and now it won't get cold enough. The freezer seems to be okay.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had this problem last year. I unplugged the the refrigerator and plugged it in an hour later it worked for a little while then quit over night. I finally called a sears repair they came 2 weeks later it was the motherboard, could have fixed it myself, what a hassle. Thankfully I have a fridge in the basement. Still this is a do it yourself.
Posted on Nov 17, 2008
It's not cool
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. I feel heat/warmth on the front edge of my refrigerator....why?
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called ayoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
- clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
There are a lot of possibilitys. You'll have to use the process of elimination.
But it could be the thermostat (make sure your setting is midway) The milk spoiling indicates it is too warm so bacteria is breeding
Get a refrigerator / freezer stand alone thermostat (about $5) That will give you accurate readings. The fridge shoud be between 35 and 40 F and the freezer 0 plus or minus 3 when set correctly
It could be your condensor fan is clogged or just that your coils need cleaning (underneath or behind) Use a vacuum with the brush end or chisel point. Dust can cut you efficiency by 20 or 30% by itself.
Assuming this is frost free model the defrost timer may be acting up in the freezer.
Forgive me for not knowing where the coils are and if it is frost free but I can't find a manual for this particular model. However the principles apply in any case.
Posted on May 09, 2009
please contact the service authority because this is beyond your limit. to solve your problem, the back panel has to remove and only the service engineer knows the skill.......................sorry friend!
Posted on May 14, 2009
Check the vent at the top of the shared refrigerator wall for cold air from the freezer. If not, then you can either replace the motorized flap inside the vent or prop the flap open with a stick or something. The manual solution won't harm anything. The motorized flap is an over-engineered solution designed to create service calls. :<)
Posted on May 21, 2009
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