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Wont start cold if put hot water over pump will start whats problem


If you mean hot water over fuel pump, I would suspect fuel icing. Try adding can of "HEAT" to fuel (removes water from fuel)

Jan 29, 2015 | 2008 Fiat 500 1.4

1 Answer

Oil furnace only produces cool water intermittedly and only when heat is actively on


For clarity, a Furnace produces HOT AIR for heat while a boiler produces HOT WATER for heat. Just remember...boil = water. You said your "furnace" does not produce hot water for a shower and because furnaces do not product hot water unless they have some model that do???? Usually people with a furnace have a seperate hot water heater. People with boilers though can produce hot water for use as both their sinks/showers hot water and their heat (by heating water that goes through baseboards) in their house. I don't believe any furnaces produce hot water most of the time a furnace just produces hot air for heating. So figure out what you first have.
Having said that, I'll assume you have a boiler like I do and my Weil McClean(sp?) stopped working a while back and wasn't turning on to "boil" any water. I took apart the burner and there is a light sensing photo resistor as part of the controls. If this phto resistor goes bad, the boiler will not start. The resister is cheap, I think it was $8 but you have to know what you're doing to change it. So you may be better to call someone who can work on such equipment.
Boiler's themselves are not overly complex. Home heating oil is the same diesel fuel that you can buy in a gas station only the government has "oil" companies put a RED die in home heating fuel which is usually cheaper then Diesel fuel because diesel fuel is taxed to death. The reason they do that is so that if you try putting RED tinted home heating fuel in your truck and you get pulled over (because you're a trucker with and 18 wheeler and they typically do inspections of these trucks) you will be a huge fine if they see you're running home heating fuel and NOT paying your taxed by purchasing Diesel fuel. A little bit of background so you know the fuel you are dealing with here. So it's dieslel fuel without the tax you run in your boiler. Gasoline on the other hand is VERY explosive as you know, but diesel fuel (if you're ever tried to light it) takes some coaxing to get lit. When it's cold out, diesel fuel is very hard to light and that's why trucks use glow plugs. You don't need those in your home though.
But because diesel fuel/home heating oil is hard to light, it's sprayed as a msit into your boiler, so that it can light more easily.
But because it is a fuel, you should know what you're doing when messing with it. FInd out what you have, and then have someone work on the issue if you haven't already. I'm guessing you have had it fixed by now?

Mar 21, 2014 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Truck set for awhile . changed fuel filter. truck will crank and idle but when try to drive and accelerate truck sputters and pop back and knock off. After a few minutes will crank back but will knock off...


This is typical for an engine that has gotten water in the fuel. The best solution is to drain the fuel tank.
SOMETIMES you can get by with using a product called HEAT that is for water in the gas tank during the winter. It encapsulated the water so it doesn't impact the gas's ability to burn - but if the water content is too high, even HEAT can't offset it.

Oct 05, 2013 | 1988 Ford F 150

1 Answer

Tank full of hot water,faucets deliver only cold,water trickels into tank with rapid intermittend pump action


1) Copy following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

2) Add comment with clear description of water heater, fuel type, and pump?
Is this a pump problem or water heater problem?
Is this a water well pump?
Are you getting good stream of cold water at tap?
Which water heater do you have?
Is the heater new?
Or older heater that stopped working.

Dec 27, 2012 | Atwood 10 Gallon Gas/Electric Water Heater...

1 Answer

HI THERE I JUST BROUGHT A 30HP JHONSON MOTOR. ALL RUNS WELL BEEN OUT 4-5 TIMES. FIRST TIME WENT FOR ABOUT 30 MIN STARTED FINE BUT ON WAY HOME IT SPLUTTERD AND THEN DIED. BOUT 20 MIN LATTER IT WENT AGA


passably the cover on you motor should stop water from getting in or you got old fuel, or bought bad fuel if possible water in fuel tank buy a bottle of heat this will remove water from fuel tank, replace fuel filter if one or drain moisture trap on engine fuel system.

Apr 30, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

What is the meaning of BTU?


British thermal unit: a unit of heat equal to the amount of heat required to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit at one atmosphere pressure; equivalent to 251.997 calories. The amount of heat needed to raise 1 pound of water 1 degree F (equal to 252 calories).
(British thermal unit) Describes the heat value of fuel for appliances - the higher the BTU, the more heat available for cooking.
A Btu is equivalent to 252 calories and serves as the base unit for measuring the heat content of a fuel source.

-The Ugly Pool Guy www.wefixuglypools.com

Dec 09, 2010 | Pentair Minimax Ch 400,000 Btu Propane...

1 Answer

I live in Wisconsin (so it gets cold) and I just built a 1,000 sqft detached garage with 9' walls and I looking for the most efficient way to heat it. I will generally only be using it on weekends, but,...


Hi Rob - There are a bunch of variables that come into play. If you're going to use liquid fuels such as K1 kerosene or "home heating oil" (red dyed diesel fuel without the "road use tax"), you have to consider the tank location. Since home heating oil is really dyed diesel fuel, is reacts to cold just like diesel fuel does. It begins to gel - paraffin separates and the fuel gets cloudy around the 20 degree F mark and can clog the supply lines and filter. It gets worse as it gets colder. You can get around this somewhat by installing larger diameter and insulated fuel supply lines and moving the filter bowl assembly inside where it won't be subjected to that much cold. Your dealer may put additives in the fuel to prevent separation or you can add it yourself. K1 can be added to home heating oil tank to reduce clouding and straight K1 can be burned by an oil burner (you can not burn home heating oil in a K1 heater though). K1 on the other hand, flows just fine at these temps and lower. You'll need to supply storage tanks for these fuels.

The amount of heat or BTU's per gallon of these two fuels is significant. Home heating oil checks in with 50% more heat with around 140,000 BTUs per gallon while K1 has just over 90,000 BTUs per gallon. Cost is another factor. Typically, K1 sells for more than home heating oil, but has the benefits above. Prices for home heating oil and K1 are volatile and change daily and from dealer to dealer. Many dealers will lock prices and / or offer purchasing plans.

Next is natural gas (or just plain "gas") and propane (or LP). Gas is usually delivered via underground supply pipes and propane is delivered by truck to your on-site tank in areas that don't have the underground gas pipe infrastructure in place. The LP dealer will usually supply and install an above ground tank. You'll likely have just LP or both LP and gas available in your area. Heating appliances must be set up to burn one fuel or the other - not both. It is often a relatively inexpensive operation to convert from one fuel to the other, meaning separate appliances for either are not required. Gas prices are usually fixed for different times of the year, while LP prices may change daily and based on the volume used. Lower usage customers often pay more than their next door neighbors that use more from propane the same company. Like home heating oil and K1 dealers, many companies offer price locks and purchasing plans.

Gas and LP heating appliances burn "clean" meaning that there is little smoke, soot or tuning needed. Oil and K1 however, require regular tuning and cleaning to achieve maximum efficiency. Oil and K1 will burn but not rapidly combust - as gasoline would. LP and gas however, will explode if allowed to collect in an enclosed area and ignited by spark from a ringing telephone, etc. Prices of the heating appliance itself come into play as well.

You can heat the space by your choice of fuel and method of heat delivery. Forced hot air is probably going to be your best choice, but you could choose a forced hot water system if you add antifreeze to it. You'll also need a source of water to make up any lost due to pressure relief valve discharges, etc. If you chose the forced hot air system, you could probably get away without the expense of duct work - where a forced hot water design will require baseboard radiant heaters or a fan forced hot water coil.

That should be enough to get you thinking.. good luck!
Lastly, electric heat. Electric heat is 100% efficient, but is probably the most costly to operate. It's listed because it is available - not because I recommend it.

The best thing you can do is insulate. Insulation pays you back quicker with each rise in fuel costs. Put money into proper insulation as you can. Low E glass in your windows, weather strip doors, etc.

Nov 12, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have hot water but the central heating has stopped working


Your heating system is separate from your domestic hot water. This means that you probably have an electric or gas appliance dedicated to heat water for your home.

Your problem will be found with your furnace or fuel supply. Since it is not unusual to heat water with a different fuel (electric, gas, etc.) than you do to heat your home, one can work while the other does not. Your first check should be to determine which energy source is required for your home to be heated. Home Heating Oil, Natural Gas and Propane are very common fuels. Additionally, many of these systems require some sort of electric supply to provide power for controls, pumps, sensors, etc.

Check for blown fuses and tripped circuit breakers in the electrical panel. Restore any failed circuit found. Check fuel level gauges. Arrange for refueling if you are out of fuel. If heating with Home Heating Oil, the delivery driver will probably need to manually prime and start your furnace before it will work automatically again.

You may also have a defective thermostat, control or sensor. Additionally, the furnace may have detected an unsafe condition when last run, and shut down as a safety precaution. If any of these things have happened, you'll probably need to have a pro check it out and make the required repairs for you. You could start by contacting your fuel company to see if they offer service. Otherwise, check telephone listings for someone that does.

Hopefully, this helps you atleast find someone who can get the heat back on for you - good luck!

Nov 10, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

We have a 1993 E150 with a 4.9 6 cyl eng, it is the only thing we have to haul my disabled son around in his wheelchair because it has a ramp in it. We had bought it in 2002 from a ford dealer in NJ, it...


one thing with fords, the catalic convertor plugs up and it over heats the motor and runs very poor and burns more fuel than the fuel station it self. you get a check engine at all?? or loss of power? burns alot of fuel? check your fan clutch/motor too
let me tell you what over heats an engine.
1 bad radiator
2 bad water pump
3 seized termostat
4 bad heads
5 plugges catalic convertor
6 engine fan not kicking in on time or at all.

Sep 14, 2010 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The heater takes longer to heat up then it used to, and when it does it des not stay heat. It blows out cool air? We have gone through the fuel system and cooling system without success. Antifreeze in...


the fuel system is seperate from heating system.check water pump the impeller could have deteriated i have seen this in another cavalier,once i removed water pump the blades that move the water were full of holes.but first make sure ther is good flow to the heater core.also hope you used a 50/50 mix of antifreeze because solid antifreeze wont heat up.

Jan 10, 2010 | 1992 Chevrolet Cavalier

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