a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Can be a bit fun to remove. Some use a jacking screw in place of the center retaining bolt and others it is to loosen the center bolt.
The loosening of the center bolt but not the removal prevent armature (rotor) from completely off as you loosed it. To loosen place a wooden 2x4 against the side of the rotor and give it good smack with a heavy hammer to jar the rotor off the tapered motor crankshaft. Once loosen then of course you remove the center bolt to remove the rotor.
DO NOT OPERATE the generator without the center retaining bolt in place as serious injuries can occur as the rotor goes fly off.
Mine stopped and I took it apart and found a badly worn piston gasket. I can't however find a new gasket. Anyone know where to get parts for the sky687 hammer drill then let me know. Copipeworks@gmail.com
it would help to now year and model but i can get you close. first support vehicle on side with bearing out on a jack stand under frame. set parking brake to avoid any accidents or use safe wheel blocks. remove wheel . remove axle lcking nut. remove caliper retaining bolts and support caliper with something to avoid brake line damage. remove caliper bracket . remove brake rotor.
then remove the hub bearing retaining bolts on the hub assembly.some new bearing assemblys come with new abs sensor wire some do not. if yours doesnt be careful not to damage the wire for the abs sensor.then take a punch and a hammer place punch into indention on axle tap lightly with hammer to loosen axle from hub.then work hub bearing loose and remove be sure to put backing plate back on the way it came off . reverse steps and be sure you torque bolts properly .some require some thread lock on hub mounting bolts
IT could be one of two problems. 1 The Rollers are missing out of the chuck so that it is not turning the bit. 2 the clutch is worn out causing the gears to slip. The problem is there are no longer parts available for the 12S. You would have to find them on Ebay or some place like that.
If the bit seems to lock into the chuck then it is not the rollers. It is more than likely the clutch.
1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID
of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the
groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in.
Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can
use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the
wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the
back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.
Open tail gate. Use the access square inside - pull cable to open tail gate. Remove interier panel - 2 bolts plus 2 screws (2 bolts on handle and 1 screw each side), pull remainder out of guide clips. Now have full access to locking mechanism. Identified a retaining spring had come loose sending guides to shift left (exterior point of view). Place hand in tail gate and move guides over and put spring in place to retain. verify it works and put back together. Handle is the trickiest part as the bolts have to go through the interior panel and afix to the metal tail gate.
I had this same problem on my 99 wrangler. It sounded horriable! like something was going to fall off. Look at your sway bar links very closely. There is a ball joint at the top of the link, inside the rubber boot. If that comes out of its hole then this will allow the link to loosen up and travel with the suspenions movement (makes a loud clunk when the suspension goes down as the top of the link is a tapered thread and wants to stay put but cant). They were about $40.00 a piece. Only the left side one was broken but I changed out both anyway. Bad shock absorbers and New Jersey potholes are to blame for this parts failure. I replaced them in my driveway with out taking anything else off. You will need a jack, wrenches, socket wrench, needle nose locking pliers, a torx 55 bit (sears hardware), and a small but heavy hammer to get the tapered end out once you remove the other bolts. Really hit that ******, it will most likely take a couple wacks. Oh and do yourself a big favor and spray the bolts at the top and bottom with some penetrating oil. I sprayed mine twice a day for 3 days and they were still tought to loosen up. I can not inagine what it would have been with out the oil. Take a picture of the old ones before you remove them. When you put the new ones on, use the picture to make sure you get the hardware in the right place. Use the locking pliers to hold the top stud in place while you remove the bolt. Just push down the boot a bit and stick the nose of the pliers in there. DO NOT DAMAGE THE BOTTOM BOLT. New link parts do not include a replacement but this can be bought for about $15.00 if you do damage it. It will just make this project go from 30 min to a couple days.
hi yes there is a plastic clip that holds the the door handle rod to the handle and connects to the lock you should be able once the pad is off take the bolts out of the door lock it will drop down so far as you can get at the door handles retaining bolts and the clip itshelf you should be able to replace the clip without taking the handle out bit fiddley but not that difficult yates210456