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Yes, you will be fine. 4 gauge power wire is sufficient for a couple of reasons, the primary one being that most of the companies that are boasting 2000 watts for a 4 channel amp are off brand "web-retail only" companies, and they severely over rate the power output of their amplifiers. Secondly the supposed 2000 watts is peak power and not rms power. Peak power means how much power that amp can put out during absolue climax of the music or during a tone burst. RMS power is how much that amp will put out continously to your speakers or in this case, your subs. If you look at the spec sheet of that amp, in all actuallity you're probably only getting 200-300 watts rms even bridged.
On a side note, if you really want to push your subs hard, you might want to consider getting a mono block or "class d" amplifier and use that 4 channel amp to push your surround speakers. Class d/mono block amps are specifically designed to push subwoofers and will give you the most efficient power out and the best heat dissipation to withstand the output required to drive subwoofers. You'll get better bass and also more adjustability to tweak the sound levels coming out of your subs. Hope that helps.
what product brand did you install. do you set the amps x-over and gains a sub sonic filter right
need to see if the amp is on check led light on amp. make sure your subs ohm load is correct for the amp.
let us an example fake amp 500x2channel max output 1000watts
if you wire your subs at 4 ohms you 250x2 rms stereo
if you wire your subs at 2 ohms you 500x2 rms stereo
if you wire your subs at 4 ohm mono you get 1000 watts
if you have the input voltage of 14.4 all the time at the amp
Hi mate very nice amp you got there here is the specs for it
Model: MA Audio HK401SX
Hard Kore Series 1800 Watt 1 Channel High Performance Class
X Car Amplifier
1 x 1800W RMS @ 0.5 Ohm Mono
1 x 1200W RMS
@ 1 Ohm Mono
1 x 650W RMS @
2 Ohm Mono
1 x 500W RMS @
4 Ohm Mono Fully Unregulated MOSFET Power
Supply 2 Ohm Stable @ Mono 1 Ohm Stable @ Mono 0.5 Ohm Stable @ Mono
if you have 2 12s just bridge them and you will have 650wrms at 2ohm running to them or one sub at 4 ohm 500w rms ps they should pump iam running 2 12s with just 360rms at 2ohm and they do the job good luck
The settings you have will not break anything and may sound OK.
But they may not be optimum for getting the best bass from your system. The SubSonic setting filters out frequencies below the threshold of hearing allowing the amp to put more power into the frequencies that can be heard. So, it should be set to about the same frequency that your enclosure is tuned for or just a little lower. If your enclosure is tuned for 35Hz, then the subsonic should be close to maximum.
Similarily, the low pass sends all frequencies below the setting to the subs, (other than those blocked by the subsonic filter) and is commonly referred to as the "crossover" frequency. Typical crossover frequencies for subwoofers are 60Hz, 80Hz and 100Hz. For a ported enclosure, lower is probably better.
The phase shift should be set to the position that best synchronizes the bass with the music. Because of the additional wiring required for the subs, the signal to them is sometimes slightly delayed causing the bass to be "out-of-sync" with the rest of the music. The thump of the bass comes just a little sooner or later than expected. If the bass sounds out of phase, turn the phase shift on, otherwise leave it off.
The "gain" or level control allows you to match the amps input to your head units subwoofer output. The best setting is usually as high as possible without distortion. Set it by turning up the head unit volume to about 3/4 maximum and then advance the amp gain until your subs just begin to distort. Then back it off slightly.
These settings should allow your amp to put the most power into the frequencies that your subwoofers are designed for and hence produce the loudest and lowest bass.
For a ported enclosure with room for a port, you're going to need a box with about 3.0 CuFt internal volume. Using 3/4" material and outside dimensions, this translates into a box 25"(w)X18"(h)X15"(d) giving you 3.03 CuFt allowing a little volume for the sub and port displacement. For a tuned frequency of 38Hz, you'll need a rectangular port 2"X6" and 4.6" in length. A round or cylindrical port for the same tuning frequency would be 4" in diameter and 4.9" in length. Increasing the port length will lower the tuned frequency.
There's excellent volume and port calculators on The12v.com web site. I'd recommend that you browse some of the "box-building" information before you begin your build. The DIY Subwoofer site also has some great resources.
Keep in mind that a ported enclosure will tend to produce the loudest bass notes very close to the tuned frequency. So tune it higher or lower according to the music you will be playing.
That amplifier is 900W x 1 @ 2ohms.
If your subs are 4ohm SVC wired Parallel, resulting in a 2 ohm load, each sub will only see 1/2 of the rated power. (450W ea.)
Your gain (sensitivity) setting should be between 75% and 85% to max. You will be fine.