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Siemens he2415u oven element 4 not heating.

How do I check ohms reading across element ?? Mike

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Ok, just attach the meter to the elements contact terminal post. after this is done, you will need to select a temp and activate the heating cycle as if you where preparing the oven to cook. You should get reading during the power up, if not, your control is bad. if you get readings at the elements terminal post and the element dose not operate or glow, you will need to replace the element.

Posted on May 21, 2009

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Whirlpool built in electric oven bake (bottom)heating element does not heat up only tot heats when in bake mode


CHECK FOR CRACKS IN THE BAKE ELEMENT. IF THE UNIT IS NOT HEATING THE BOTTOM, BUT THE TOP IS STILL HEATING, YOU MORE THAN LIKELY HAVE TO REPLACE THE ELEMENT. THIS IS A 220 VOLT OVEN WITH 110 VOLTS ALWAYS GOING TO THIS ELEMENT, SO TURNING OF THE BREAKER IS VITAL FOR SAFETY PURPOSES. WITH AN OHM METER, UNINSTALL THE ELEMENT AND CHECK BOTH WIRE CONNECTIONS FOR OHMS. YOU SHOULD GET SOME KIND OF READING BETWEEN 10 OHMS AND 500 OHMS. IF YOU'RE NOT AT LEAST GETTING A SOLID READING, REPLACE THIS ELEMENT.

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This is a repost per instructions from FixYa I would prefer to hear from heatman101 on this please.We just reinstalled a used GE JTP13GV wall oven that was working when it was removed. Everything...


So you have voltage at the incoming side of both elements - good. If you have tested the element with an ohm meter across both terminals with both wires disconnected and have a reading of 1067 ohms you have a porblem. On a 240 volt system as an example with a 2000 watt element the resistance of the element should be 29 ohms. 1067 ohms means there a very slight circuit but when power is applied it simply will not work.

Just try that test again with the wires off the elements. It should not be over 100 ohms. If it is the elements are faulty.

Also with a voltmeter test across the terminals of the elements with wiring connected and the oven elements turned on. If you have full supply voltage across the terminals it definetely means that the elements are faulty as the full supply voltage represents a good active and neutral path.

If you test again and the continuity/resistance of the elements is good then the power isn't returning to the main neutral terminal which means that you have a faulty neutral. Sometimes the thermal cut-off switch has the neutral wired through it. With the whole of the system turned on and the wiring accessible you can use the voltmeter to trace the voltage path from the oven switch, through the elements and back to the neutral.

Feb 09, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer model number 86860100 dryer not heating.....cleaned out vents not the problem....everything else seems to work.. I had seen in the past it glow in back of the dryer so I turned out...


hello there:
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element 8-12 OHMS

Jan 09, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer is not heating


Hello there here is a list of things to check
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse


Jan 09, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


Most likely a bad heating element and or bad thrmostats. you'll need to check these by ohming out after removing the rear panel to your dryer.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

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The test is fairly straight forward: Make sure the unit is off. Generally, there is a screw which holds the element in place near the connector. Remove it and the element will slide out. Now, use a resistance (Ohm) meter and measure the resistance across the terminals. If the unit is visibly damaged or you get no reading (use the 1 K ohm scale), change out the element. If the unit tests good, suspect the control or the wiring from the control to the element.

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it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

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(1)Have the unit check for electric voltage to the element
If voltage going to the element and no heating
(2)Your heating element may be defective.
(3) Have it replace by qualified personel

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