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the most common problem next is the crank sensor. use a heat light to warm up the sensor to see if it is that. by using a heat light you can narrow down what part has the temperature glitch. Don't forget to try the engine computer.
Now that you've replaced nearly everything, the only thing left that I can think of is the oil pressure sending unit. If this is bad, the fuel pump shuts down, possibly causing the problem. However, before buying a new part, find the wire for the sender and ground it by attaching it to something on the engine. You won't indicate any oil pressure, but if this IS the problem, you'll know quickly. THEN go buy a new sending unit.
Could be ignition control module or fuel pump, if you don't have spark to spark plug's, control module, also check for fuel pressure at fuel pump pressure port, port will be on fuel rail.
89 cierra? It should be DIS ignition so you can't have the timing too high. You said it has fuel and spark. Fuel pressure and injection pulse. Does it try to start if you spray carb cleaner into it?
Try checking the exhaust flow when someone else is pushing down on the gas petal.The farther the petal gos down,the more exhaust should be coming out. I replaced my catalitic convertor at 44000 miles, it was clogged. I had them install a high flow type.
ok its one of two things you need to check when it cuts off if you have spark or fuel if you lose fuel pressure replace pump it gets hot and makes noise like its running but its not pumping fuel and if you lose spark you need to replace ignition control module has a hair line crack in it and when gets hot the crack expands and loses contact and wala no spark
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