Question about Maytag MSD2454G Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

Freezer and fridge is warm

When this first happened I removed the food and unplugged it. After it sat awhile, I plugged it back in and everything was working perfectly - to my amazement. Then a few days later, the entire thing heated up again. The fan is running and I hear clicking like something wants to kick on to cool, it hums and then shts off. I checked back of the interanl freezer and there is no ice on the coils. At the back of the unit, air is blowing near the compressor with force. Any ideas will be appreciated.

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  • jacobs7755 May 21, 2009

    Does the link below reflect the Relay/overload with start capacitor that you speak of or is it something different? I think that you are on to something since if the compressor was bad, then the unit should have never have recooled after it's first failure... is that good thinking on my part or no?



    http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail...

  • jacobs7755 May 22, 2009

    Thanks for Vic's and Sea Breeze's time. The fridge is a
    MSD23578HEB. When I posted, I didn't see it as a choice and used the other model to post (I am a newbie to this and didn't know how to post without drilling down at the home page - sorry). Nevertheless, the compressor is under its original Maytag 5 year warrenty, so I won't be heart broken to hear that the compressor is the problem. I am sorry for bothering you, but can either of you explain to me how the freezer/fridge can quit cooling, and then after being unplugged and replugged in months later it start working just like brand new, and then after some time (I am not really sure - it was running in my detached garage) it stop cooling again with the fan running and the clicking noises from the back. If the starter switch or the compressor is bad, then I wouldn't have thought that it would have ever cooled. Per this post's advise, I unplugged it last night. I hope to get a few days off work to mess with it this weekend to better determine it's problem and to see if it will cool again once I re-plug it back in in hopes of process of elimination. Can I tell if the relay is bad by smelling it or shaking it? How else can I tell if the compressor is bad? Again I appreciate Sea Breeze's and Vic prompt responses and help. It is nice to know that someone is out there willing to take the time to help a stranger. God bless you both.

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  • Maytag Master
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Sounds like the motor start relay and capacitor both need to be changed. The clicking is the overload cutting off power to compressor because it will not start. It will need a better start capacitor also to get it going again. Keep it unplugged until the parts can be tested and replaced. If not the internal overload may be damaged. I am here to help if you need, Sea Breeze

Posted on May 21, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 21, 2009

    Not trying to make this harder for you, but. before you order you may need to look at the numbers closly. There are four series of models to choose from. Sorry to say that but like every company they made changes as they went along. Here is what my supplier says. Below

    Some appliance models had design changes that were made mid production cycle. Though the entire production year shares the same model number, not all were assembled with the same parts. The series number is used to identify the correct part(s) for your appliance.

    What series is your appliance?




    There are two common methods used to identify the series of an appliance. Both methods involve reading numbers from the model number identification tag.

    Some models have the Series Number explicitly listed on the model identification tag. If your appliance does not have a Series Number that is listed explicitly, then it must be derived from the serial number.

    The first two digits of the Serial Number are generally used to identify the series of your appliance. For example, a Serial Number of 1523427RH would constitute a series number of 15.

    What Part is Correct?




    The correct part for your appliance is the part with the series number that is closest to the series number of your appliance, but is SMALLER than the series number of your appliance.
    Example
    Assume that you have a dryer with a serial number 20548963FG. That means the series of your dryer is "20". Assume two blower wheels are listed for your dryer model and that they have series numbers of 10 and 11 respectively.

    The blower wheel with the closest serial number that is less than the dryer series number of "20" is the blower wheel labled as series "11". That would be the correct blower wheel for that dryer.

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 21, 2009

    Another thing I noticed is the model number above your post and the number inside the link are different. Make sure the correct model is listed. On front of refrigerator and near floor behind the fresh food compartment door or behind the kick plate. Make sure you check winding in compressor before you buy anything. Maytag317 is also correct.

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 22, 2009

    Start relay and capacitor or worn out compressor. If I had to replace I would replace them with a 3 in 1 relay and capacitor built together.

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  • Master
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Hi, You have a relay or a compressor going bad. You can get a new relay and see if it makes a difference. Most models have a 5year warrnty on compressor if it was bought before January 2008. When you hear it clicking, listen in the back and see if you canhear the noise. If I can assist you in getting the relay, please let me know.

Vic

Vic

Posted on May 21, 2009

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