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Sole e35 rear rails loud noise

Rear rails rollers not making good contact on outside

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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dreadbell101
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SOURCE: rubbing in flywheel sole e35

Hi, I think you will find this useful :)
http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Fix-Squeaky-Elliptical-Exercise-Machines

Posted on Jan 31, 2015

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1 Answer

Dryer is making a loud screeching noise


Most likely, the rear drum bearing, a drum roller, or a drum slide has failed. Most models do not have all three types of drum support, usually one or two types. (Rear bearing with front sliders, rear rollers with front sliders, front and rear rollers, etc.)

Could possibly be a belt idler pulley or motor bearings, too.

You should diagnose and find the problem, before buying the parts.

Mar 05, 2017 | Dryers

1 Answer

Bosch WTA 3510 uc/13 FD 8203 compact dryer is very loud. Motor is okay. Just changed the main pully. Belts are okay. Still is a loud rumble when operating. Any ideas? Rear bearing appears to be ok


DRYER MAKES NOISES.



A loose or worn BELT can make funny noises

Or the idler pulley that puts tension on the dryer drum drive belt could be worn out. If the pulley is bad we recommend also replacing the belt.



The glides on drum worn and making metal to metal contact.

The drum slides or glides support the front of the drum. As the drum rotates over the years, the glides wear out and then the dryer makes noise. Replace all of the glides as a set if they are worn out.



CHECK FOR LOOSE BELLOES inside the drum



Sometimes an item can get stuck inbetween the drum and the housing and scrape and grind making funny noises, things like coins, bra wire, nails, hair pins, etc sometimes u can just remove the cabinet and observe by turning the drum by hand or looking for scratch or scrape marks on housing.



The blower:



Clumps of lint, socks, and other small articles of clothing can get past the lint filter and into the blower wheel. If the dryer makes noise, and the noise seems to be at a very fast pace, there might be something caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve might be worn out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If this happens, replace the blower wheel.



The bearings:

The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. If the dryer makes noise this bearing might be worn out. Replace the bearing if it is worn out. Do not lubricate the bearing, the lubrication will attract lint and dirt and accelerate the wearing process.

The bearings TEST by moving drum by hand u may be able to feel loose or rough movement. And listen to sounds when turning it.



The drum rollers or castors:



It is very common for dryer drum rollers to wear out. If the dryer makes noise, particularly a loud rumbling noise, one or more of the rollers may be worn out. After removing the drum from the dryer, inspect the rollers.

Check for cracks, dryness, or damage and not engaging drum properly. Sometimes u can use high density LITHIUM BASE gear grease to re oil/grease them.

GOD IS GOOD !!!!

Oct 09, 2014 | Dryers

2 Answers

Roller coming off guid rail while in use


This is a known problem with these machines. We ended up returning ours. Sorry!

Mar 20, 2014 | Sole Fitness Sole E20 Elliptical

1 Answer

Subzero drawer jammed


After viewing the video a few times, it appears that the drawer is off the roller track. Notice the roller at the bottom right corner side, I think the lip of the drawer should be on the outside. There may also be a track or rail the roller fits in. Try lifting the rear of the drawer at the rear and angling it over the rollers and pulling the whole thing out. Then just look at how it fits together, then reline the rollers with the track, then push it back in. good luck!

Dec 10, 2012 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I need to replace the walking belt on a ProForm PFTL40070.


Installing An Icon Fitness Treadmill Belt You can save yourself a great deal of time by following these instructions as opposed to those of the manufacturer. Please contact us if you need any further help. UNPLUG THE TREADMILL BEFORE DOING ANY REPAIR!
Step #1- Remove the plastic railing on the right hand side of the deck. Most railings are stapled down so using a flat head screwdriver or another prying device is the easiest way to do it. The plastic is refastened using screws provided with the belt in a later step. If you cannot see the staples, you may need to remove the cosmetic center insert cover first by simply sliding it to the back of the treadmill. This rail is on the opposite side of the front roller pulley and motor. Some of the models aren’t stapled down and with these, you simply remove the rear end cap and slide the rail off the back of the treadmill.
Step #2- Loosen the rear roller and remove the two adjustment bolts. Some models have a spring loaded tensioner on the right hand side so be careful when removing these bolts. After the bolts have been removed, remove the rear roller end cap(s). The rear roller should now simply slide out of the walking belt.
Step #3- Remove the motor hood. Using a black permanent marker, make a mark on the front roller adjustment bolt on the motor compartment side at exactly where it fits flush with the roller so you will know where to retighten it later. The adjustment bolt is on the right hand side of the front roller. Then remove the bolt with a 7/16” wrench. Step #4- Remove the deck screws which should now be exposed since the plastic cover is off. In this step, also remove the staples with a pair of pliers. Be sure to remove all deck and staple debris before continuing.
Step #5- This step is easiest if you have another person to help but it is possible with one person. Lift up the side of the deck that has been loosened and making sure that the front roller is angled toward the deck, remove the old belt by simply pulling it to the side. A few models had a side hand rail that attaches to the side of the treadmill and if you have one of these, the hand rail must be removed first.
Step #6- Install the new belt just like you removed the old belt. Before proceeding, make sure that the belt is in the center of the two metal belt guides that protrude from the bottom of the deck. The guides should be angled where the sides of the belt are turned slightly upward. Sometimes these can get bent during installation so make sure they are contacting the edges of the belt or the belt will not stay centered properly. Step #7- Install the front roller adjustment bolt where you just start it. Do not return it to its original position yet.
Step #8- Install the deck screws.
Step #9- Slide the rear roller back into position and insert the end caps and rear roller bolts. Most models have a small ground wire on one of the rear roller bolts. Make sure to just slide this over the bolt before it is inserted in the roller. The ground wire dissipates static electricity that is built up on the walking belt to help the roller bearings last longer and reduce static discharge on the electronics.
Step #10- Adjust the front roller bolt to its original position.
Step #11- Tighten the rear roller bolts to where the tension on both sides feels even and you can lift the walking belt 2-3” in the center of the belt from the deck surface.
Step #12- Replace the right side railing with the screws provided using a screwdriver.
Step #13- Start the treadmill and align the belt according to the instructions in the owner’s manual or on our web site troubleshooting page under “Belt Centering Tensioning Instructions.”
Step #14- Once the belt is aligned, test the belt for slippage. If the belt slips at all, tighten the rear roller adjustment bolts equally on both sides ½ turn until the slippage is gone. Do not over tighten the belt where it has less than 2” of lift from the deck surface.
Step #15- Replace the motor hood and make sure no odd noise is apparent and that the belt is tracking and tensioned properly.

May 19, 2010 | Proform 325 Treadmill Walking Belt

1 Answer

My dryer is making a loud squeaking noise when it


All dryers have to have a way of allowing the tumbler (that's the thing you put the clothes in) to turn freely, not all of them are the same tho,some use bearings, some use slides,others use rollers. Over time these rollers will need to be oiled,the slides will get thin and start metal to metal contact causing a noise, The rear bearings will then start to make their way to china and cause the tumbler to rub into the heating element and OUCH! These things will cause the motor to prematurely DIE! Its best to examine the dryers, rollers, and slides when you first hear the noise, but who does?

Dec 27, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

KENMORE DRYER


Hello ENRIGHT11 Welcome to Fixya
My name is Huum,


You said,
DRYER MAKES VERY LOUD NOISE WHEN RUNNING. ALTHOUGH IT HEATS UP AND BEGINS TO DRY, IT STOPS RUNNING COMPLETELY AFTER ABOUT 5 MINUTES. IF YOU WAIT AN HOUR, YOU CAN START IT AGAIN, BUT IT AGAIN SOUNDS VERY LOUD (ALMOST A RATTLING SOUND) AND THEN SHUTS OFF AFTER 5 MINUTES

Faulty Blower Wheel

If you hear a great deal of noise coming from the blower area of the dryer when it is running, then the blower wheel could be defective.

The are many different designs for blower wheels and just as many unique failure modes. Vanes (fins) can break off the wheel and bounce around in the blower breaking more pieces. The blower can break around the coupler with the shaft. This can cause the blower to spin loosely on the shaft. The blower can form cracks which cause it to vibrate, etc.

You should also not be surprised to find foreign debris in the blower. The occasional bird, rodent or squirrel has been known to bypass the out vent cover. If they crawl into the exhaust tube the first thing they come into contact with is the blower wheel.

If the blower wheel is not spinning, or if it is missing vanes, it is not moving air efficiently. As a result, heat is not removed from the heat source and it can trip the high limit switch or blow the thermal cut-off.
Worn Belt
A worn belt can stretch and/or become brittle with age. The belt can then slip on the drum or motor to cause squeaking. If this is the case, the solution is to replace the worn belt.

The belt is not the only item that can cause squeaking. It can also be caused by a faulty idler pulley, worn drum bearings, worn drum glides or worn drum rollers depending on brand and style.

When replacing the Belt is is a good idea to also change the Drum Support Rollers, Drum Glides, Idler Pulley and Clips. All of these items are economical easily changeable when replacing the belt. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.
Worn Drum Glides
Some dryer models are equipped with Drum Glides. The front of the dryer rests on these glides. They provide a low friction surface on which the drum spins. After time however, this glides wear down. Much like an automobile brakes, these glides make a load grinding noise when they wear thin. This griding against the drum usually leaves a bare metal stripe that is visible at the point of contact. If the glides are worn, the solution is to replace them.

The drum glides not the only items that can cause squeaking. It can also be caused by a faulty idler pulley, worn drum bearings, a worn belt or worn drum rollers depending on brand and style.

When replacing the Drum Glides it is a good idea to also change the Drum Support Rollers, Drum Belt, Idler Pulley and Clips. All of these items are economical and easily changeable when replacing the glides. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new.
Worn Rear Drum Bearing
Some dryer models are equiped with a Rear Drum Bearing. The rear of the drum rests on this bearing. It provides a low friction surface on which the drum spins. After time however, this bearing will wear down. If the bearing is worn, the solution is to replace it.

The rear drum bearing not the only item that can cause squeaking. It can also be caused by a faulty idler pulley, worn drum glides, a worn belt or worn drum rollers depending on brand and style.

When replacing the rear drum bearing it is a good idea to also change the drum glides, drum support rollers, drum belt, idler pulley and clips depending on make and model. All of these items are economical and easily changeable when replacing the rear drum bearing. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new.
Worn Drum Support Rollers
Some dryers such as Whirlpool/Kenmore brands are equipped with Rear Drum Support Rollers. The weight of the dryer drum rests on these rollers. They provide a low friction surface on which the drum spins when in operation. After time however, these rollers wear down. When they wear, often times they begin to elongate and form a non-round 'cam' shape. The result is that when the dryer is turned on it creates a rumble that sounds as though you are trying to dry a pair of tennis shoes. This sound is usually the drum being forced up and down on the non-round wheels. If the rollers are worn, the solution is to replace them.


When replacing the Drum Rollers it is a good idea to also change the Front Drum Glides, Drum Belt, Idler Pulley and Clips. All of these items are economical and easily changeable when replacing the glides. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new. Whirlpool
Kenmore models have a dryer maintenance kit that contains all of these items in a single kit.


Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.


Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.


Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.


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Jan 21, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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