Question about Kenmore 600 3.5 cu. ft. Top Load 110-2962 Washer

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Locating and removing shipping bolts in Kenmore 600 washer

Locate and remove shipping bolts

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: How to INSTALL the shipping or transport bolts prior to moving my washer?

there should be i think 3 holes in the back of the washer and u need i believe the orange shipping bolts and they screw into the back to hold the drum in place because if u move without the u have a very good chance of breaking the shocks which there are 4 and they are about 30 dollars each plus the price of labor of installing new ones and there not very easy to get to.

Posted on Mar 20, 2007

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queen_bee_21
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore front loader run with shipping bolts in

i just recently had a frontloader delivered WITH shipping bolts IN PLACE also... it did the whole LEAK EVERYWHERE thing too!!! The repair guy has already looked at the damage and the ENTIRE machine is being replaced as we speak. BOTH baskets had rips torn into them and it is only holding itself up by ONE shock right now. Sears definitely owes you BIG TIME!!! I'd DEMAND a new washer immediately.

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

PASSWORDS122
  • 49 Answers

SOURCE: Leaking Kenmore 600 washer - How do I get it open?

Hmm

What were looking at is a older style washer there is a problem getting theese off but you have to open the top first then you will find that it just pops off theese are easy to open 1 you will need a screwdriver a flat head known as a straight screwdriver you will stick it between the cracks in the front top between the front cover and push on 2 metal things its quite easy try this hope it works out for ya

GOOD LUCK AND HAPPY 24TH OF JULY ....

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove top from kenmore washer

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.


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Posted on Sep 11, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Removing a pressure switch (Kenmore HE2 Front Load Washer)

This advice is for a washer that fills and will not shut off, resulting in an overflow. Or, water is leaking from the washer while filling. The symptoms can apply to either a TOP LOADER or FRONT LOADER washer. This may be able to save you from an expensive service call by making these simple visual checks.

Water Does Not Shut Off and Overflows: The water level in a washer is controlled by the Pressure Switch. The switch is usually cylindrical in shape and has an electrical connection and an air hose attached. In many cases, the small air hose comes loose from the Pressure Switch fitting and/or falls off. This air hose is required to detect the air pressure from the wash tub as tub fills. With no air pressure, the switch will not function and the result will be a wash tub that fills continuously to the point of overflowing. The same would be true, if the air hose has any cracks, splits or holes in it.

Water Leaking While Filling: The other end of this hose runs to the air dome fitting on the side of the wash tub. If the lower end of the hose comes off, the water will begin to spill onto the floor under the washer, but the tub will not fill.

What to Look For: Check for the obvious. Make sure the air hose is still attached to the pressure switch and air dome. Then, inspect the entire length of the hose, paying particular attention to areas where chaffing may occur and at the points where the hose connects to the pressure switch and air dome. Vibrations from the washer can cause some wear if the hose is rubbing against anything, and the ends of the hose can stretch over time and not seal properly.

On most top loaders the Pressure Switch is located inside the operator console behind the knob that controls the water level. This knob is commonly referred to as the "Load Level", "Load Size" or "Water Level". On front loader washers the pressure switch location is usually located in the back of the washer behind the wash tub, or along the interior cabinet wall adjacent to the wash tub.

How to Correct: If the hose has slipped off, cut about ½" off the end of the hose and reattach to the pressure switch and/or air dome fitting. Take a small zip tie and place it around the hose at the point where it connects to the fitting. DO NOT over tighten as this can damage the air hose fitting. Just make the zip tie snug enough to keep the air hose from sliding off. If the hose has any cracks or holes, you can attempt to seal them by using electrical tape. Replacement tubing can be purchased at any hardware store.

NOTE: This is not an all inclusive fix, as the Pressure Switch can fail in some cases and cause similar symptoms. This is merely a preliminary check for a common occurrence that I have discovered. It can give symptoms of a major problem, resulting in a call for a repairman, only to turn out to be a simple fix that any Do-It-Yourselfer should be able to check and correct themselves. I hope this information is found to be helpful and saves many of you a future service call.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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Hello,

It sounds like perhaps the shipping bolts are still in the machine. Look at the back you'll see 4 large bolts that must be removed to release the main tub assembly from the cabinet.

Refer to your owners manual and it should give you an illustration of where they are located.

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