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DIAGRAM OF HOW TO REMOVE THE ENGINE SHROUD ON A BRIGGS AND STRATTON MOTOR FOR A WOODSTLITTER

DIAGRAM OF HOW TO REMOVE THE SHROUD

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 83 Answers

SOURCE: removal of flywheel from briggs and stratton 4 cycle engine 3 hp

Without the $100 flywheel remover that briggs will happily sell you you can do the following.
First you will need another body to help, two if available
2 pry bars or large screwdrivers
A air hammer if you have it or a large hammer if not
Loosen the flywheel nut until it backed off til the nut is just barely one thread or even with the shaft. Now put your pry bars behind the flywheel on opposite sides. Have someone provide constant pressure (don't be too forceful the block is made of aluminum and can be damaged). Now hit the end of the shaft with a hammer or air hammer (the nut is protecting the shaft threads) with medium power. With a few careful hits the flywheel should pop right off.

If you run into trouble or are unsure of something in this proceedure please ask.

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: Need linkage hookup diagram for Toro Super

Go to TORO.com and view parts for your model.

Posted on May 19, 2009

  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: I need a diagram for the carburetor linkage on a

go to partstree.com and get a diagram for this.
hope this helps you.let me know.if you cant find it ill get you one ok.let me know

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

mowerman1857
  • 389 Answers

SOURCE: how much oil to put in a 6.25 briggs and stratten

They hold APPROXIMATELY 20 ounces. Put in around 18 oz and start checking the dipstick and adding a little until it gets to the full or MAX or whatever it says on your particular engines stick. Each time you ad a little, give it a chance to drain down or you will get a false reading

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: craftsman 19.5 lawn tractor w/briggs & stratton keeps flooding

This could be a number or items from no spark to a faulty carburetor, a plugged up air filter, valves out of adjustment, poor gas, faulty spark plug.

First, see if your getting spark, how about taking the wire off a plug(s) and holding it about 1/8" or so away from the plug with some masking tape while you crank the engine. You should be able to see the spark jumping the gap, it helps if it is not too light outside. If you attempt to do this with your hands, you will get a spark jolt, it hurts, so use the tape and remember, the engine could start so proceed with caution.
If you have no spark there, then you ignition or magneto is faulty. This would be unlikely in the broader scope of things. You will likely get spark. Make sure the plug is clean, take it out and inspect. If it is covered in gunk well clean it. It will smell like raw gas but you already know that. Change the plug if in doubt.

Remove and clean and replace the air filter.

If you have spark, and a clean filter it is likely a carburetor problem, Depending on the carb, it could be the choke is faulty or, as per the below.

Depending on what model you have there is a float assembly in the carburetor that stops the fuel from flooding the carb and air intake. The gas tank is higher then the carb right, so if you dont have a mechanism for stopping the fuel from leaking out the hole that goes into the engine, it will all leak out right, as into the fresh air intake because its easier than going into the engine. So, there is a miniature float assembly, sort of like your bathroom toilet float to stop the water. Well there is a small wedge type needle that seats into a hole and it is attached to a float. As the gas rises in the bowl, it pushes up the float, sealing the gas into a chamber, as you use more gas, the float lowers and more gas goes in. So ,there is dirt jammed into the float bowl sealing needle, just a little, thats all it takes. So, shut off the gas somehow, hopefully you have a valve, or squeeze the rubber line, then undo the float chamber, its one nut on the bottom. Clean carefully. The needle, little spring and float assembly are delicate. Also, the needle could be worn from engine vibration, so it may need a new needle. It would help if you described the engine and carb though.

I posted that as a solution to another problem, but yours may also be the valves need adjusting. Depending on the amount of hours, say over 200, then the valves timing will likely be off a bit. Check the clearances with a feeler gauge, it is not as difficult as it seems. Check your Owners manual for the clearance at top dead center. TDC is when you take the plug out and watch the piston arrive at the top of the cylinder through the spark plug hole when you are turning the engine over (do this by hand, battery off. Make the adjustments with the valve cover off. Follow the instructions.

Hope some of this helps.

Posted on Sep 21, 2009

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