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Reznor ft60 Call for heat vent motor kicks on burner ignites fan won' t start high limit shuts burner off. wire fan to power works fine. What controls fan?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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hotuna
  • 288 Answers

SOURCE: Goodman Furnace Intermittent

Does this piece, have an economizer and or vent draft options installed? I hope not. If not, I had the same sort of problem with a Payne unit, sort of the same style. First things first. bypass the thermostat by making a jumper or connecting the red to the white wire on the thermostat, see if that stops the problem. Repair techs are all to anxious to replace the board anymore. If the repair man installed a relay to bypass the blower control he is in over his head, the limit switch determines when the fan shuts on & off based on temperature. There is a relay on the control board that basically carries the load for the motor. Dont have anything else installed that need not be there (there is enopugh crap already from the factory) If you want to really fix this I need to know if you have and can read a volt/ohm meter and can understand a wiring diagram, hopefully yours is still there. let me know after the thermostat thing and I can walk you through this.

Posted on Dec 25, 2007

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edgz
  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: high cool and low cool not working

Hi,
Pls check the following....
1) Fix the wire connector to Reversing vale
2) Check the Capacitor if this a low capacitance or (open) not function using Multi-tester.
3) Check the Selector switch if this is not function using Multi-tester . or check the PCB Board (if electronic your units) replaced the Board.

If not yet,go to the nearest repairman to repair that units.

Thank you,have a nice day.


Edgz

Posted on Jan 25, 2008

jbjaxiis
  • 95 Answers

SOURCE: i have a high efficiency

I would have the the burners cleaned, you may be hearing a clog starting to form at the valve on the furnace.

Posted on Jul 06, 2008

  • 96 Answers

SOURCE: heat comes on fan does'nt

diagram sould be on the back of the cover panel over the sequincer and relays

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

drmengle
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: axu heat and outside blower fan run all the time

I can tell you exaclty whats wrong . and it sounds like multipart problems. you have an old RUUD heat pump and its reversing vavle is stuck. without that valve opening it will contantly try to run in refrigerant mode to make heat. and here its 26 degrees, het pumps are only made to be effiient in over 34 degrees and that why your electric heaters in the blower section in an in a closit of unit
continously running up you eectric bill big time. cuses for the reversing valve to stick are sitting along time when it was low on refrigernt. or ust plain shut depending on its age. that cicking is the relay trying to open or close the reversing valve swict to make pressure again. any local guy an fix that one. theyre are kits called hard start kits that they hook up to them that shoot an extra zap of jiuse in it to try to free it up if its not totally lockd up being though that you still hear the relays pulling in and out thats good you may have just caught it in time.

now here is a quick test and possible cure but only if you what your doing turn both units off take off the top cover of the old rudd and get a small hammer not a sledgehammer and rap and tap all around the reversing valve. it will be a cylindrical tube black usually have sets of copper or brass tubings going in the 2 sides of this so dont hit itthat hard it gets dents it and is ruined. look for oil spots which uually means the refrigerant leaked out , and its seized up for good. they try spinning around the big out door fan door fan some. you may have to rock it back and forth Till it braks lose but dont put super human efort int it,

than put it all bak together making sure you connected wires back up right. go in and have you wife eithe watch it or you do it and switch the breker on and off about 8 times to trying to get the cnnectors switches to stay in and if your brave take a well insulated screw driver and hold them in for 2-4 miuntes to force it to work. if that doesnt do it call your local repairman and tell him you need a hard startkit only much safer, the cost about 40$ but you labor will be high if he is sent alone so may you can help im out and lessen your bill if the valve cant be made to work again. you may want start looking for prices with that model and serial number and d shut that electric heater off some one to replace it . I hope I helped you out some no charge ( I dont have my Pay Pal acct. set up yet ) good luck tom.

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

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My good man furnace model gmh80903bnca will not get to temp fan shuts off and burners keep burning then kicks off on high limit then starts process over but never gets to temp set at 655


If you have a switch that can manually turn on the fan, try it to verify the fan works. This is what I think is happening. The normal operation should be thermostat calls for heat, inducer fan comes on, pressure switch closes, igniter glows, main burner ignites and then in 30 or so seconds the fan comes on and stays on until the thermostat is satisfied. Once the thermostat is satisfied the burner shuts off and the fan runs for approx 120 seconds then shuts off. I think the control board that automatically turns your fan on is faulty. On most modern furnaces if the auto fan control fails and the furnace gets to hot and limits, when the limit opens and shuts off the burner it also energizes the fan motor to cool the heat exchanger.

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Dayton_furnace I have a dayton furnace the blow and burners kick on and run fine, brings the house up to the right temp the burnes shurt down but the fan moter never stops blowing. what is wrong ?


Hello, if you are referring to,the blower motor then most likely the relay on tne integrated contol board is malfunctioning. Unfortunatly the whole board must be replaced in this case.

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My furnace heats up and then shuts down not kicking on blower


Your furnace is shutting off on the high limit switch because of this. You are having a problem with the blower motor. You need to check for power from the wires on the board that feeds the motor. If you have voltage, and your run capacitor is good, you have a faulty blower motor. If its a fan relay, the fan would start and run all of the time. Check power to motor right after furnace shuts the burners off.
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We have a tempstar down draft furnace. 2 years ago the heat exchangers where replace because we were told they were cracked. This year the downdraft motor was makikg a lot of noise & we were told the...


Sounds like the low limit or high limit is out these control the fan motor.They are usually set to kick on around 150 degrees and set to go off around 95 to 100 degrees. Over heating does happen with cracked heat exchangers and it can possibly take these two items out. Normally your furnace should run approximately five minutes or a little less then your fan motor comes on and then for cooling down burners should drop and the fan motor should run again roughly five minutes or so then shut down. Times may vary as to your settings.

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Turn heat on, I hear it ignite and furnace runs and runs fine then usually there is a slight delay and blower turns on and blows heat, but now it does not, I put my hand up to a nearby vent to no heat and...


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

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Flip the lower panel over and look for a wiring diagram. On that diagram there will be a diagnostic chart. Let me know what 5 blinks represent. Then I want you to read on.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

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