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What is the correct amount of slack on my KLX 300 Chain

I have a 2005 KLX 300 and I think my chain is too loose. What is the correct setting for this chain

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  • Expert
  • 415 Answers

A quick and easy check that can be done any where. Loosen the blade bolts, suspend the saw by the blade, tighten the blade bolts while in suspension. This will put the right mount of tension on the chain.

Posted on Jul 02, 2014

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

AlmostBob
  • 550 Answers

SOURCE: 14 inch electric chain saw throws chain off

If a new chain ::
make and model is important here, as are guide bar length
a particular chainsaw, may be available with 12,14,16,18,20,22,24,26 inch guide bar,
likewise different saws (even from different makers) use the same size of chain
a chain for this saw may be sold in a variety of lengths or
may be sold in the longest length only and require links removed to suit smaller bars.
back to the store, with the saw, for confirmation

If an old chain::
stretched way beyond safety, replace

Posted on Sep 28, 2008

steve_lima
  • 181 Answers

SOURCE: Chain becomes very loose with little use

the problem with torqueing the nuts is that it's not enough tighting.i tell my customers that you need to tighten them as tight as you can get them.the nuts will not vibrate loose then.don't worry about breaking the studs they are very hard.

Posted on Feb 24, 2009

  • 323 Answers

SOURCE: The chain on my chain saw is slack.

The adjusting screw is usually found on the right side of the saw close to the bar, near the bottom. You will need to loosen the two nuts on the side that hold the bar tight. Loosen them until the bar lifts up and down (about 1/2") with your finger.

There should be a combination spark plug wrench and screwdriver that came with your saw. If not, use a slot screwdriverto tighten the chain while you hold the bar up with two fingers.

When adjusted properly, there should be no hanging slack in the chain when it is warm. It should rest just against the bar so that you can grasp it with gloves on and pull it toward you.

When it is tightened thusly, tighten the two side nuts while holding the bar up with two fingers. If you don't tighten the two nuts enough, it will loosen and the chain will have slack again shortly.

Remember that the hotter the chain gets, the looser it will be. Make sure your chains is getting plenty of bar oil. Never use regular motor oil.

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: Husqvarna 359 leaking chain oil

Remove the sprocket cover, bar, and chain. Find area where oil is discharged from case--is any part of the rubber seal damaged? Next, use compressed air to clean sawdust and dirt from oiler ports in rear of bar as well as the chain slot. Are you using motor oil instead of bar oil? Make sure there is nothing to prevent bar from making close contact with oiler port in case. Reassemble all parts and adjust chain tension.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: loose chain

If there is no more adjustment on the bar yes you should buy a new chain, excessive chain stretch my be by over tightening the chain before use, the chain should be loose enough that you can lift the chain out of the bar a little bit you should be able to lift the chain far enough to see around one full link

Chains can bought at your local farm store the one for my saw cost around $15-$20.00

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks for the input... will get a new chain..."

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Hi Sean:
To adjust the chain tension you need to move the rear wheel.
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Provided you have not been in an accident that has bent your frame,upper and lower triple tree, or forks, the only alignment you can make is to adjust your chain. If the the front wheel is not tracking with the back wheel you just have an improperly adjusted chain. On each side of the swing arm by the rear axle are two chain adjuster cam/wheels. The have numbered bump/stops. Both chain adjusters should be set in the same numbered bump/stop to align the front and rear chain sprockets and the front and rear wheel tracking. the adjusters are on the machine for the purpose of setting the amount of chain slack. Your chain should not be too tight or too loose. If you grab your chain in the middle and push it up and down, you should have a slack measurement of 1 1/4 inches from the bottom edge of the chain to the top edge of the chain. If the setting is off the best way to make the adjustment is to raise the rear wheel off of the ground. A race bike stand is very helpful for this and oiling and caring for your chain. Harbor freight tools sells a cheap rear stand for about $35 (buy the cheaper one piece non-collapseable stand). Pull out the cotter pin, loosen the axle bolt, turn both adjusters till you have the correct amount of slack and they are both set to the same number. Tighten the axle and recheck the slack. If you notice when spinning the rear wheel that the chain goes tight then slack, you have a stretched section of chain. If this is the case you should replace the chain and any worn sprockets at this time.

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The first step is to find the tightest part of the chain. Unless it's a brand new chain it will have a tight spot somewhere on it. It's easiest to do this with the bike on a race stand if you have it. Rotate the wheel and observe the lower part of the chain and watch it lift up when you hit tight spots. The spot where the chain lifts highest is the tightest part of the chain. Once you have found this spot, grab the chain on the low side under the swingarm and move it up and down. It should move up and down around 30-35mm or so, or an inch and a bit if you're an imperialist :) If the chain moves more or less than this then it needs to be adjusted.

To adjust the chain, you need to loosen the axle first. Don't take the nut off but it has to be loose enough to undo by hand. Using 2 spanners, unlock the lock nuts on the end of the swingarm and wind the nut in or out until you get the correct amount of chain slack. always do the sprocket side (left side) first, then repeat the same on the other side. Check the chain adjuster marks to make sure that the adjusters are equal on both sides, this will make sure your rear wheel is aligned properly.

Once you have adjusted the chain, tighten the rear axle and check again. The chain slack will change slightly after you tighten the axle, it might go tighter, it might go looser. Depends on the bike. But the chain slack must be correct with the axle tightened. A bit of practise here and you will be able to guess the correct amount before tightening the rear axle.

Once you have the slack set correctly and the axle is tight, make sure to tighten the adjusters. Tighten the front nut first against the swingarm plate so it can't move. Do it tight but not crazy tight. Then holding the first nut so it can't move tighten the locknut against the first nut. Repeat this on both sides.

If you are not quite sure if the chain is right, always err on the side of making it too loose rather than too tight. Running your chain too tight can destroy your output shaft bearing. It's only about $30 or so for a new one but your engine needs to be completely stripped down to replace it, it's not a fun job. I have seen a lot of FZs and FZRs have this problem because people ran chains too tight. If your chain really is too loose then it will start making your gear changes harder to do, that's the sign you need to tighten it.

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The cahin came off on my sons Kawasaki KLX 110, how do I put it back on?


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Apr 26, 2010 | 2005 kawasaki KLX 110

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Chane slack


Slacken the wheel nut a couple of turns ,then simply adjust tension with the chain adjusters at the rear of the swingarm legs. Look carefully you will see notches marked on both sides of the swingarm by the wheel spindle these must be the same on both sides, your manual will tell you the chain slack for your bike.probably about 25-35mm put a ruler up to the chain and using finger pressure push up on the chain ,this is the chain slack. Once done tighten the wheel nut up to correct torque setting.( manual or call local dealer),then replace split pin with new through the wheel nut. Double check all your work no loose nuts,then sit on the bike get a friend to wiggle the chain there should be small slack as first meashured 25-35mm again, if not re-try,once experienced you will do it first time.

Mar 04, 2010 | 2000 Honda VFR 800

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