Question about LG LWHD1800R Wall/Window Air Conditioner

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GFI on cord trips out.

Just purchased a lg lwhd1800r window air conditioner with a 15 amp gfi plug on it that trips as soon as plugged in. The wire to the 20 amp breaker is sound and the ground is connected. The breaker box is grounded to the power companies line, but there is no ground pole to earth. Can that be tripping this new unit. The old one worked fine on this outlet.

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Probable cause is a single pole gfi opposed to a double pole gfi.
* Do not use a single pole GFCI ON A MULTI WIRE CIRCUIT, IT WILL NUISANCE TRIP IMMEDIATELY
Use a two pole GFCI circuit breaker on such circuits.

Posted on May 20, 2009

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I plugged a 30 amp power supply cord from an rv to a 15 amp house outlet to run a/c to rv . gfci tripped and wont reset. damaged gfci or something else?


A GFI outlet works independently of sensing an overload condition. Overloads are dealt with by the circuit breaker or fuse in your electrical panel. The GFI simply compares the current on the hot terminal (black or red wire) with the current on the neutral terminal (white or gray wire) and interrupts the current if there is more than 5mA (0.005 Amps) difference between the two.

Remove the load - in this case the RV plug - from the GFI outlet and attempt a reset. Make sure you're pressing the RESET button and not the TEST button. If it resets - you're all set. Reconnect the RV plug to a different outlet - preferably NOT a GFI type.

If it still wont reset, it is important to know that GFI outlets can be wired in such a way that any circuit extended to other outlets (lights, too) via the LOAD terminal screws will also be protected by the GFI. We need to be sure that there wasn't something else causing the fault. Check other nearby outlets for functionality. Remove plugs from any outlet found not working and attempt to reset again.

If it will not reset - it is possible that the internal sensing circuitry has been damaged due to such a large amount of current trying to pass. In this case, replacing the GFI outlet will be needed.

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Gfi trips when plugged into wall


GFI's are designed to trip when there is an imbalance of current that flows from the hot side to the neutral side of the plug. Apparently there's current flowing where it's not supposed to. Check the cord to make sure the conductors inside aren't somehow touching (short)'

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A circuit breaker can go bad, but usually not in the way that you describe. That's not to say that it can't happen, but just not typical. GTE Sylvania breakers were once popular - I installed quite a few GTE / Sylvania electrical panels in homes in the late 80's. You may have trouble finding replacements; do not put an breaker that "fits" into the panel, unless the breaker is designed for use in the panel you have.

The first thing to do is determine the source of the problem. The breaker will trip, but not indicate if it was the result of a heavy electrical load or a ground fault condition. A 15 amp circuit breaker is designed to carry up to 12 amps continuously. The greater the load, the more quickly it will trip. it may carry a 14.5 amp load for several minutes to an hour before tripping, and a 20 amp load may be carried a second or two. GFI breakers are designed to carry 5 thousandths (.005) of an amp (or 5 milliamps) to ground, or the 12+ amps to neutral before they trip.

The way I would attack the problem is to install a new GFI outlet in front of the old wiring, by "inserting it" between the panel and the other plugs and lights, switches, etc on that circuit. The GFI outlet will provide the same GFI protection that the circuit breaker provided at a fraction of the cost.

Turn off the old GFI breaker, and remove it completely. Install a new, standard (non-GFI) single pole 15 amp circuit breaker in its place. Completely remove from the panel the cable that the old GFI breaker fed. Buy a new electrical outlet box (surface or flush mount as desired) that is large enough and deep enough for a GFI plug and 2 cables (if surface mount, use a 4" square deep box and appropriate cover - or if flush mounting use a deep plastic / fiber single gang box). It will be installed in a place close to the panel, but where the old cable will be able to reach inside. Bring the old cable removed from the panel into the new box. Run a new cable that has the same number and size wires from the panel into the new box, too. Connect the circuit neutral and circuit ground to the neutral and ground bars in the panel (they are probably the same bar) and the hot wire to the circuit breaker. make sure that the circuit breaker is OFF. Twist the two ground wires together and combine an 8 inch length of bare or green insulated wire with them in a wirenut.

Next, wire a new GFI plug in the new box. Connect the green wire from the wirenut to the green terminal of the GFI outlet.

Connect the plug's LINE terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you ran from the panel to the outlet box.

Now, connect the GFI plug's LOAD terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you removed from the panel and reinstalled into the new outlet box.

Secure the GFI outlet into the box and install the cover. Cover the electrical panel.

Power up and test. if the GFI trips, there's a ground fault in the circuit. If the circuit breaker trips, the circuit is overloaded.

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Never remove a GFI. It is there for a reason. If your plug is has a bad GFI, you can replace the plug with a standard one but make sure you replace where it plugs into with a GFI receptacle which only cost about 30 bucks, or you could replace the breaker that feeds that circuit with a GFI breaker. The problem with replacing the breaker is that if you place any resistance head loads on it (i.e. blow dryer, toaster), it might trip because you get a loss of current from resistance heat. The GFI only looks at what is going in and what is going out. If it sees an imbalance of up to 20 milli amps, it will trip. Your cheapest way is replace with a standard plug and add a GFI plug receptacle to where it plugs into.

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We have a LGHD25000ER window unit. It's on a 220 line. It was working fine until last night. When you plug it in the G.F.I. on it's line from the air conditioner it pops instantley. We have already...


Hi,
There has to be a shorted wire in the Air Conditioner then....the GFI is suposed to do that if it senses a short anywhere in the circuit and if it is happening when the air is plugged in then it must be in there....

heatman101

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Just guessing, here. The reset is actually a "Ground Fault Interrupter" called a GFI. It's there to cut of power in case of a dangerous electrical condition--which you probably don't have.

Did you unplug the unit? If not do so, let the GFI cool for several minutes, and try to reset again. They're pretty hard to push in, maybe use a fingernail, you must hear a click or it's not reset.

Is there water in the outdoor unit, or is it filled with snow? This is the most likely cause of an actual GFI fault.

If the GFI itself has failed (unlikely), you could replace the entire power cord. You should then maintain safety by installing a GFI circuit breaker on that circuit, or you'll be in violation of codes that might affect your homeowners insurance.

There could actually be a problem with the unit. This would be that an electrical wire has come loose and is contacting the metal chassis, creating a shock hazard. Unlikely but possible.

If the receptacal you're plugging into is old and worn it might the problem. Worn receptacles might actually have tiny electrical arcs inside, which can trip a GFI. At a couple of bucks (DIY) it's worth a shot.

If there's actually an electrical fault in the unit it can be found and repaired, but the cost of repair could very well be more than it's worth. Warranty?

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Maybe over pulling more amps the the GFCI curcuit can handle. Check all the GFCI plug and verify if there are anything else plugged in. Including hair dryers and / or flat irons.

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