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Sounds like a blown capacitor on the main power board. look for the cylinder shaped capacitor on the board that the top looks bubbled up (rounded not flat). It's usually 2200uf capacitor. you will have to unsolder it and replace it or just replace the board. Capacitor $5 board moe like $200. try the cap first. they are available at radio shack. may be different in size. you will have to run extra wires to the new cap sometimes.
About the only thing you can do without a service tech looking at the unit is to check the capacitor. If it is bulging it has blown and you'll need a new one. If you are not comfortable working with electricity I'd take it to someone because, even unplugged, you could get harmed or worse just from handling the capacitor. If the problem is not the capacitor and the unit is getting power the chances are good the compressor itself has blown and you'll probably be better off buying a new unit rather than bearing the cost of a comrpessor replacement. That choice is, of course, up to you. Good luck.
This indicates capacitor failure either due to it "blowing" out or due to arcing.
The capacitor can be replaced if you can find a like for like one and feel confident in doing the repair.
Exercise caution however handling the old capacitor as even if it is defective, it is still possible it could hold some charge so discharge it though a 1 meg wirewound resistor to the chassis before handling the terminals.
Remove all the screws at the rear of the microwave and slide the case off to the rear..
WARNING: when working on Microwaves even when it is unpluged there is a capacitor charged with energy that can kill you. Locate the capacitor and discharge with a large screwdriver with a plastic handle.Insert the blade of the screwdriver between the two wires where they go into the capacitor.
After discharging the capacitor locate the fuse holder and check the glass fuse.
These fuses will blow if the door safty switches don't open or close at the right time. Could be a one time problem.
If the fuse is blown replace with the same amp fuse you take out.
It is not unusal for capacitor/s to blow their tops and could emit flames and smoke as the power supply ages. When they blow they could damage other components. Don't bother trying to replace them, get a new power supply.
Im not sure if this will fix your tv, but mine was powering off intermittently. I found a defective
2200uf Capacitor on the power supply board. Take a look at the top of the capacitor cans,
mine was popped up an looked damaged.
The main problem is the power supply. In detail, the output capacitor of the power supply causes the problem. I guess, Toshiba or Lite ON didn't consider the aging effect of the output capacitor. You should replace the output capacitor to fix the problem. (In some sites, they recommend to replace the power supply, but don't do that. The new power supply costs over $200 and the capacitor will be less than 50cents.) If you disassemble TDP-S8, in the power supply, you can find the electrolytic capacitor 3300uF/10V. You should replace this with any electrolytic capacitor with the range of 2000uF~4000uF/10~16V. You can download the service manual from some websites (I've paid $5 for this) then you can disassemble the projector. Of course, you need to do soldering to replace the capacitor. I've fixed this problem yesterday and it took about 4 hours for me. Good Luck~~!!
You probably just need a new main power board. You can buy them from Vance Baldwin, Probably $125 to $150 with S&H. Adjusments are needed with a digital voltmeter while the board is operating in the set. Some techs have told me that the capacitor failure sometimes damaged one of the switching regulator ICs and that those parts were not available. Before we worked out that a special type of capacitor was needed, the capacitors we installed were getting very hot and we knew that they were not going to last long.
Hi, I had the same problem. One fine day I tried to switch ON the camera but it will never turn ON. Batteries OK and condition of switch OK too. Being a technical person, with the help of some colleagues, I decided to open the camera, assuming that sending it for repair would cost too much. We found a blown smd capacitor marked 4710d. We replaced it with a 47uF capacitor and also a blown link just adjacent to the capacitor. The link resoldered and the camera is working fine now. I must say that even though very complicated, the way this camera is assembled makes it easier to handle.