Tape drive speed

This is an idler wheel drive turntable that uses a small rubber wheel, that when engaged pushes on the motor spindle and also on the rim on the underside of the platter. The spindle on the motor is stepped so as you shift speed the idler wheel moves up or down the spindle and that changes the speed of the platter. It could be the the shifting mechanism is dodgy You can try to loosen it by gently shifting the speed from 78 to 16 and back again. But the idler wheel rubber might be in trouble too.

Safety and Preparation Serious injury can occur if the engine or mower blades accidentally start while you are working with lawn tractors. To prevent this, drive the Murray lawn tractor onto a flat work surface and disengage the mowing deck cutting blades. Engage the parking brake to keep the mower from moving; chock the wheels with a wooden block or brick. Adjust the mowing deck to the lowest position. Turn off the engine and remove the key from the ignition. While not necessary, you may even wish to disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Mowing Deck Removal You must remove the mowing deck on a Murray lawn tractor to gain access to the belts. Remove the adjustment rod hairpins, followed by the adjustment rod pins from the front left and right sides of the mowing deck. At the rear on the left and right sides, pull out the retaining hairpins and slide the mowing deck suspension links from the adjuster plates to separate the rear mowing deck from the frame. Remove the blade control rod stud, including the hairpin and washer, from the top of the blade control lever shift linkage at the left rear of the deck. Remove the front hanger rod, including the hairpin and flat washer that hold the rod in place. Loosen the belt guide retaining bolts with a socket wrench and remove the engine stack pulley belt so you can slide the mower deck out from under the tractor Transmission Drive Belt Installation Slide the new transmission drive belt between the engine stack pulley belt guides, over the belt guide plate and under the engine stack pulley. Fit the transmission drive belt around the top engine stack pulley. Push the free end of the transmission drive belt up through the transmission shifter hole in the lawn tractor floorboard. Slip the transmission drive belt loop over the transmission shifter. Pull the transmission drive belt down through the transmission shifter hole. Fit the transmission drive belt around the transmission drive pulley and tighten the transmission drive pulley belt guide retaining bolts to hold it in place. Fit the transmission drive belt flat side around the idler pulley. Slide the idler pulley onto the idler pulley stud while holding the belt in place. Tighten the transmission idler pulley retaining nut with a socket wrench to secure the idler pulley to the idler pulley stud. Mowing Deck Drive Belt Installation Pull back on the right side mowing deck mandrel pulley spring-tensioned belt retainer. Guide the new mowing deck drive belt around the right side mandrel pulley and release the belt retainer. Pull the drive belt spring-tensioned retainer away from the mowing deck idler pulley, guiding the deck drive belt around the idler pulley. Fit the mowing deck drive belt around the left side mandrel pulley and under the rear mowing deck cross link rod between the right and left side mandrel pulley. Slide the mowing deck under the right side lawn tractor frame, reconnecting the deck to the frame in reverse order of removal. Engage and disengage the mower deck while driving the mower to test the belt for proper operation.

Just did this swap out - the trick to the Amana NED7200TW belt replacement is you need to do the belt idler threading from the REAR of the unit (unless you have the hands of a 5 year old!) However you still have to pull the entire drum from the front and if you are that far in it is recommended you replace the drive idler pulley. Both parts together are under $30.
1.Remove back screws that hold top on - slide it off.
2.Remove the plastic control panel - careful do not over stress the wiring harness
3.Remove the metal frame that sits below the plastic control panel - again watch the harnesses.
4.On the front of the unit remove the front panel - trick - there are two screws inside of the door that must come out and also you need to disconnect the small harness that feeds the door sense switch.
5.Now you will see a brace that holds the front of the drum - it's like an "H" on its side. Unscrew that and lift and remove the brace - the front of the drum is now free.
6.Presuming the belt is broken, you carefully lift the drum out.
7.Under the drum you will see the motor that drives the belt (and the blower on the front)
8.Next to the motor you will see the tensioner/idler pulley. Pretty simple to replace, use the new screw that came with the new idler. The new ones have ball bearings, will outlast the dryer.
9.With the drum out, put the belt around the drum, groove faced in. Suggest you take a little masking tape to tape it down in a few places to keep it in place while you jockey it around and do the threading.
10.Now, go to the back of the unit, there is a small vent access panel. Remove it, it has a long vent tube that is part of the assembly keep them all together, pull it all out.
11.Now with the drum resting in place, reach in the back to thread the belt - there are diagrams around that show the loop around the drive shaft and the idler, it requires a hefty twist of the idler - maybe 140 degrees from resting position clockwise as you look from the back to get it over the belt, but it fits.
12.Now remove the tape and carefully and slowly rotate the drum to get the belt laying flat, work out any twists, groove down, and make sure there are no twists by inspecting the idler from the back. 13.You are good to go, reassemble.

It sounds that what's happened is your idler wheel is slipping or even your main drive belt.
When you loaded the tape it was taken by tape guides around the video drum. When you pressed eject the tape guides returned to their proper places but the tape stayedin a loop around the mechanism because the take up spool had no drive to pull the tape back into the cassette. When you've tried to pull the cassette out of the camera that loop of tape has snagged on part of the mechanism and that's what is stopping the cassette from being removed. I'm afraid the tape would be damaged at that spot so you may as well simply snip it with a pair of long bladed scissors and the cassette will pull straight out.
What is then required is either the drive belt changed or the idler wheel assembly changed. Either way a service center will be required unless yourself or a friend is able to buy the parts (not expensive) and do the work required.

Good luck

The tape speed is controlled by a pinchroller arrangement; one rubber covered idler, and a metal drive roller with the tape between them.
There is tension of the take-up reel that will pull the tape faster than it would normally travel if the described rollers are doing what they should.

You might try removing the rubber idler (normally one small Phillips) and stripping the surface with something fairly aggressive such as lighter fluid or alcohol and an old rag.
If you get a good bit of black deposits, that may be enough to restore some tackiness to it and therefore function.

If you are handy and curious, you can take a cartridge with problems, remove the tape from the reels, cut out most of the closed side of the cassette, put a rubber band between the two empty reels and make a test cartridge that might let you see what function the various gears perform.
I still have one so prepared in a box of other homemade fixtures I used years ago.
A box I didn't bother to unpack since the repair of these is no longer fiscally sensible.

I had sorta the same problem and I just fixed it. Mine was making clicking noises and jerking the tape causing speed variations and pitch changes, Uggghh. The FF, Rew, and take up functions are not belt driven like most decks. There is a little idler wheel between the motor and the take up axle. Take the whole transport assembly loose from the front of the deck...slide it back 3 inches . Take off the ground wire screw, and 3 screws holding the transport mechanism in place :...1 screw on top, 2 on bottom. Take the black front faceplate off of the drive...2 little screws. This exposes everything.The little idler wheel has a press on tiny,tiny piece of clear plastic holding it onto its little axle. Be hella careful. Use a tiny eyeglass screwdriver to pry it up and off. Dont lose it. Pull the idler wheel off. The rubber has hardened and slips. Pry the rubber rim off of the white plastic pulley using the tiny screwdriver. Put on an O ring that just fits. Scruff up the perimeter of the O ring with 220 sandpaper, Easy does it. Idler wheel goes back in, press on the little plastic retainer, put the black metal plate back on( 2 screws at top), slide the transport mechanism back into the front panel, secure with 3 screws, ground strap, replace cover. Clean heads, demagnetise, badda bing, badda boom.

This is the number one failure mode for a tape machine.
One drive is used to pull the tape out and run it across the heads very accurately, and another drive is used to pull the tape back into the cassette. This one uses a clutch to allow it to slip so that the takeup reel in the cassette can vary in speed depending on how much tape is on it. After a few years, it slips too much and can't pull the tape in fast enough. (older units use rubber idler wheels to do the same thing)
Either tighten up the clutch, or replace the rubber wheel.
Hope Ya Fix It!

I am looking forward to my boosted rating from you!

Solution: The tape not spooling back into the cassette is caused by a fault with the idler or clutch mechanisms. There are usually felt clutches associated with the idler gear and felt clutches on the take up and supply reels. On many VCR's the idler gear engages a direct drive gear for FF & FR, whereas for cue & review the idler gear engages a gear that drives the spool via a felt clutch, the same gear that is used for play. During play, however, the capstan/pinch roller pulls the tape through the mechanism with the take up reel pulling in the slack tape. Check for a slipping felt clutch mechanism. A little trick that works well, remove the offending spool and most spools can be popped apart, use some violin bow resin and carefully work the resin into the felt. You will find that the resin restores the lost grip of the felt with lasting results. Violin resin can also be dissolved into alcohol to provide a gloss finish over reworked solder joints.

This is the most common VCR problem of all time. The piece call the idler tire is worn down and needs replacing. This is the little wheel in the mechanism between the 2 reels that flips back and forth depending on which direction you've told it to go. It has a rubber tire around it to allow some slippage so that the take up reel can go whatever speed it needs to as it accumulates more and more tape on it as it goes through your movie. Sometimes this tire is very difficult to get at so it isn't something you should try to do yourself unless very mechanicly inclined. Replace the rest of the rubber belts while you're at it.
Hope Ya Fix it!

You may have an idler gear wheel which has been damaged- perhaps broken/worn gear teeth or something afoul in it's drive mechanisms. Check this idler which sits down in between the supply and take-up spindles. You should be able to see this with no tape loaded. This idler should also move freely from supply to takeup- if it is sticky in movement this could be the problem. If your idler is broken, you may be able to replace it. Check with a service center- or a parts supplier. MCM electronics is one such supplier- there are others.