Question about Refrigerators
Unplugged 1993 fridge for 9 months and now the freezer and fridge dont get cold, lights, fan and motor all work Everything worked fine until I unlplugged it for 9 months
It's 20 years old,replace it,don't waste a penny into that machine,most likely you have a problem in the sealed system compressor and freon so don't waste any of your time or money.good luck,if you say the compressor and fans are running and it's not getting cold one of the lines could have rotted out and the freon gas leaked out,you can remove the back inside wall of the freezer and look at the evaporator coil,if it's running fine you should see an even frost pattern covering the coil,if you only see frost where the lines connect to the coil you have a freon leak but i wouldn't even waste my time doing that on this machine just repace it.
Posted on Jan 02, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: refridgerator not very cold
It could be some many things, to save time let me give you this check list:
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Posted on Mar 04, 2008
Pull out the fridge and unplug. Remove the back cover. Clean the condenser coils and fan. If they're difficult to get to, use compressed air to blow out. (you can get a can from walmart). That should fix the problem. If that doesn't work, then write back.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
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Posted on Mar 25, 2009
You have something wrong with the vent going from the freezer to the fridge. You probably have a defrost problem and ice is blocking the vent that goes from the freezer and comes out in the roof of the rerigerator compartment. Replace your defrost timer and bimetal.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
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