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Heater won't light

The induced draft motor runs for a half second, then quits. No HSI glow or gas flow. LED on the circuit board blinks rapidly and continuously. According to the error codes on the inside of the panel, that indicates a "incorrect twinning" or "incorrect polarity".
the solution given is to reverse the transformer secondary wires or the primary wires. I have done both with no change in the operation of the heater.

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  • fstephens Oct 19, 2007

    Thanks so much for the response.
    I thought I put the make & model in the original message form, but somehow it was lost when I posted it. The heater is a Goodman MN:GMP075-3.

    The inducer motor turns very freely, and the resistance through its coils is almost nothing. The pressure switch also seems to be working fine (and I bypassed it to test once too). The HSI appears fine and has a resistance of about 75 ohms.

    The fan will run if I connect the green and red thermostat wires, but the error code still flashes. Nothing happens when I connect the red and white thermostat wires. The inducer motor only runs for the half second when I put power to the furnace with the red & white thermo wires connected. Reconnecting them with power on does not cause the inducer motor to turn.

    Any help greatly appreciated (as well as sources for wiring diagrams, troubleshooting info or parts).
    Fred

  • fstephens Oct 20, 2007

    Yes I am talking about the same blower motor. I did as you suggested and I hear a relay on the circuit board click, the voltage goes to 110 momentairily and the drops to zero again. So I guess it is the board? That was the conclusion I was leaning towards, but I wanted to be sure before I order one.

    There are also 2 ground wires I cannot account for. One is a short green one that has no apparent place on the board or anywhere else to connect it to. It has a terminal end that supports connection of a second spade connector. The other wire is a long blue one. Both are connected to the chassis near the upper left of the circuit board. I see on the wiring diagram that there is supposed to be a ground hooked to one of the transformer's secondary connections, along with 2 blue wires. I wonder if this long blue one should go there too? Seems strange to me, but since the error code mentions the secondary wiring... There is no connector on the end of this long blue wire, so I don't know if someone previously cut the end off or what. I did try connecting it as the diagram shows, but that did not change anything.

    Do you know a good source for the circuit board?
    It is B18099-13.
    This site lists it:
    http://tinyurl.com/37da6a

    Thanks for your help. Any sources for troubleshooting info or diagrams welcome too.
    Fred

  • fstephens Oct 20, 2007

    Thanks allot for your help.
    Really appreciated.

  • JPScott Feb 24, 2008

    Good Morning:

    I am having a heating problem as well. I had furnance maintenance completed on my unit and had the thermastat upgraded and replaced. The problem is the vents on the first floor of my home. Heat is not blowing uniformy out of the vents.. So that level is always cold. The bedrooms are almost hot because all the heat is blowing out of those vents but on the first floor heat only blows through one out of the four vents on that floor. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Thanks so much for your help.

  • Anonymous Dec 20, 2008

    heater wont ignite every thing turns on but no light

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Not having a make or model number, I can only give you generic information. However if you add more info, others and myself can give you a better diagnosis.

 

In order for a furnace to start that has an inducer motor, the thermostat must call for heat. Then the circuit board will flash rapidly. There should be power from the board up to the inducer motor. If there is too much resistance, the blower motor or pressure switch(s) will shut down the unit. I would suggest that if you can spin the inducer motor by hand, check for resistance. It may be frozen up or there may be water in the housing not allowing the blower to turn. Check for a plugged water drain at the bottom of the blower housing and make sure it drains. If the inducer blower does not even try to start, you will need to check for voltage from the circuit board. Not knowing for what you have for a model, I am unable to tell you if you should be checking for AC or DC voltage.

 

Get back to us as soon as you can with more info.

 

Thank you for your patience.

Posted on Oct 19, 2007

  • Chandler Ede
    Chandler Ede Oct 19, 2007

    I fear you have an issue with either the inducer blower motor or the control board. For some reason the relay is dropping out on the inducer circuit and then te unit just will not operate. You will need to hook up a meter to the 2 wires from the control board going to the inducer motor. Put your meter on AC voltage of about 200. Watch the meter, see if the voltage stays or drops out. If it stays at about 110, you have a bad inducer blower motor. If it drops out, bad board. Just to make sure we are talking about the same blower motor, the inducer motor is connected to the exhaust vent pipe and is not the blower in the bottom of the furnace cabinet.



     



    I hope this helps.

  • Chandler Ede
    Chandler Ede Oct 20, 2007

    There are a number of places on the web to order one. As far as the green and blue wires, The green one should be attached to chassis ground. I am not sure what the blue wire is for. Chack it for voltage when you get your new board. It may not be used, your wiring diagram may help.



     



    Good luck to you.

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This system will not have a pilot light, instead it will have an electronic ignition or hot surface ignitor. The problem can be a number of things. You can check to see the operation of the unit by having someone turn the thermostat on while you are at the unit and go from there. The order of operation will be:
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How to trouble shoot trane 80 gas furnce


The 1st thing I do is go to the thermostat and put the Fan switch from Auto to the On position. If the fan operates this proves you have both high and low voltages and the breaker, fuses, transformer etc is functional, this saves one from going to the breakers and air handler often in an attic or roof or basement.
If the fan does not operate then I check for correct power.
Set the thermostat for heat mode and turn the temperature setting well above the rooms temperature. and observe the furnaces sequence of operation.
What you normally expect is upon the white circuit from the thermostat being energized with 24 volts, the induced draft motor will cycle for 30-60 seconds typically to pre purge the heat exchanger, after this purge the induced draft motor has a pressure switch that senses the induced draft operation thus proving the induced draft motors running and alloqw the ignition to begin, either a spark or a HSI, hot surface ignition type.
If you see no bright white light or hear a sparking noise by the burner area this is normal, this will be followed by a trial period for ignition, meaning the gas valve will be energized for a 30 second trial period, during this time the flame rectification proves a flame exists by a DC signal being sent back to the module by the flame sensor or the ground/burner ground.
This DC signal is very weak and easily interrupted and this is why we clean flame sensors and simply re seating wiring will often times correct a situation,
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This port must be reamed to clear carbon and if not will cause a problem such as locking out requiring resetting power or a 5 hour wait for some units,
You need to insure the limits and roll outs are all closed, its all failrly simple if the LED is tellingyou the error as they do today.

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That thang might be sensing a lazy flame. In other words the flames took too long in the board's opinion to quit sensing the flame. Yall probably need to do pressure tap on the gas valve.
Here is a realistic look at goodman fault codes and what to check fer and I am assuming you are not a tech and don't know this already and am hoping it helps:


Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.

Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.

Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.


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Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.

Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.



Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.



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Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.

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Now here is how it should all go down:



Bottom dollar: it all goes back to type of gas, the initial setup, the pressure tap. and how it is wired up to begin with.
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