Question about GE Profile JS998 Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Display no longer works

Burners still work, but display went blank 2 mornings ago.  Oven 1.5 years old.  Was working fine (except clock was slow), and then just quit working.  Breaker is fine and unplugged for a while and still does not work. Handyman looked at fuses and wires in back, but were ok.  He did not feel comfortable looking under top so problem may stem from there.  Anyone else have this problem?  Have you been able to fix?  Was it costly?

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  • teva Oct 18, 2007

    JS998SOH (Stainless Steel) is the model number.  Thank you so much for looking into this.

  • teva Oct 19, 2007

    We do live in US (North Carolina).  It said model # and color:  J S998SOH1 SS on the sticker inside the oven door.  I think I left off the 1 at the end.  Sorry.  There was a separate serial # as well.  I hope this helps.  Thank you!!

  • teva Oct 20, 2007

    Will do.  Thank you.

  • teva Oct 26, 2007

    GE warrantied the part and just charged us labor.  It was one of the electrical components under the top.  Thank you for your advice!

  • falconsnest Apr 22, 2008

    I have the exact same problem as Teva.  Which board was found to be defective?  My Model number is the same as yours.  Any help you can offer would be much appreciated.

  • jaydennis Jul 04, 2008

    Same range - 2.5 years old. JS998SOH1SS. Same problem here. No display on panel, and buttons do not work. Talked to a repair tech in town and he said he'd order a display panel board. But it sounds like it's the eoc board per the previous post.



    I'm figuring it's some other board downstream since the touch buttons don't work either. Is my logic correct? I'd like to order the correct board and do it myself, but with 3 board that are inter-related (and costly around a grand for all 3!), I'd like to be fairly confident that I'd ordered the right one.

  • jaydennis Jul 05, 2008

    2nd post here. No voltage at main control board (logic board). Went upstream and checked for 12v dc at MPB J1. Zero volts, should be 12 volts. There is current on the MPB because the heatsinks are ungrounded and they're "hot" at 100v ac. No 5 volts dc from the MPB to the logic board either. So basically I believe it's the power board and not any of the 4 boards that are on the panel for the display. If any of this logic doesn't make sense, please enlighten me before the parts dept "enlightens" my wallet of around 250 bucks.

  • nooven Nov 23, 2008

    I have the same problem as Teva, however my model number is GE proflie GRCL3700vm-1

  • Helga May 27, 2013

    I have the same problem, how to I get to the eoc board?

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I have a GE GS998S0K3SS slide-in range with Trivection oven. The display stopped working and oven controls were nonresponsive. Electric cooktop was still working.
In my case the problem is the Main Power Board, part number WB27T10551, $340 at AppliancePartPros.

To fix:
Turn off the breaker
Remove the cooktop control knobs.
Remove the three plastic and one brass holder that are behind the control knobs.
Lift the faceplate, remove the electric connector, set faceplate aside.
Remove the four screws holding the panel.
Lift the panel, disconnect all the connectors, set it aside
Remove the ten silver screws holding the black trim that the control panel was mounted on. There are five at the top and five underneath that are visible when you open the oven door. Set aside the black trim.
Remove the two black screws holding the cooktop in place. One front left, other front right.
Set aside the cooktop.

The main power board is the large PCB with heat sinks on the right towards the rear. To verify it is broken you need a voltmeter.
At the rear right there is a black, white, and red wire, plugged into ports J101,J102, J103. Disconnect all three.
Turn the power back on.
Verify 120VAC between J101 and J103 wires
Verify 120VAC between J102 and J103 wires.
If this test passes, turn off power, reconnect wires, disconnect connector J3 (front left of board). Turn power back on.
Verify +12VDC between J3 pin 1 and pin2
Verify +5VDC between J3 pin 3 and pin 2
Verify -14VDC between J3 pin 5 and pin 2.
If tests fails replace the board and reverse the disassembly directions.

The board is sitting on 12 hold-down pins. I used a small diameter deep-well socket to squeeze the pins and gently lift the board. Getting all the pins to line up under the new board is a pain. Gently push the new board down into place.

Posted on Jul 01, 2015

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Yes, I see this but it isn't real common.  The control board (eoc) will have to be replaced.  Most of them are costly.  If you give me the complete model # from the sticker on the oven (may be behind bottom drawer) I can check into this better for you and get you a price.

Posted on Oct 18, 2007

  • Craig Shelton
    Craig Shelton Oct 18, 2007

    Can't find anything on that #.  Usually model #'s are longer than that.  Make sure it is the # that is on the oven sticker.  Not the serial #.  Also, do you live in the U.S.?

  • Craig Shelton
    Craig Shelton Oct 19, 2007

    I'm sorry but I still can't find anything with this model number.  I will say this,  GE is usually pretty good about taking care of problems when they are just out of warranty.  I would call them first and complain.  You may find that they will cover this 100% or maybe just the part.  I would do this first.  Let me know how it turns out.

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