Question about APC 1500VA BX1500 8 Outlet UPS UPS System

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Overload light on

Check volt at ac plug on ups read 89vdc that with charge up battery pack

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Overload on ADP Back-UPS XS 900 with trivial load

Replace 24v dc small fan, it does not work!
You can buy a new one here
https://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=5920640&MPN=OD4010-24MB&R=5920640&SEARCH=5920640&DESC=OD4010-24MB

Posted on May 04, 2009

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Geekman
  • 32281 Answers

SOURCE: I have a APC back-ups CS650 when i switch it on

Sounds like you have a inverter fault.

Posted on Nov 24, 2009

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SOURCE: SUA3000RMI2U won't carry load

Did you run this test without AC input?
Also what happens when you cut off the AC mains without any load connected to it? Will the UPS continue to run or does it switch off as well?

Posted on Dec 16, 2012

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1 Answer

1997 Suzuki GSX-R 750 diagnose charging system


Hi, Ashley before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
Suzuki 1996 GSX R750 Service Manual
OEM parts for Suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals

May 29, 2017 | Suzuki GSX-R 750 Motorcycles

Tip

Xantrex inverter error codes


This information expands upon the error code information contained in the Link 2000 Owner?s Manual.
E-01 Inverter high DC/Battery voltage shutdown Battery voltage has risen above 15.5 VDC for 12-volt models or 31 VDC for 24-volt models.
E-02 Inverter low DC/Battery voltage shutdown Battery voltage has dropped below 10 VDC for 12-volt units or 20 VDC for 24-volt units.
E-03 Inverter or Charger overtemp shutdown Unit will reset automatically after it has cooled sufficiently.
E-04 Battery overload Caused by excessively discharged batteries. See section in inverter owner?s manual titled ?Charging overdischarged batteries.?
E-05 AC Backfeed AC power from an outside source has been fed to the AC output of the inverter. Potentially damaging to the unit. Disconnect incoming AC power and correct the situation.
E-06 Electronic Overload Inverter overload caused by too large a load or a short circuit. Reset by cycling power switch or connecting incoming AC power.
E-07 Triac control error Triac has overheated. Shut down unit and allow to cool.
E-08 High battery voltage shutdown during charge mode Check all charging sources for proper voltage. Reset by cycling the power switch.
E-09 Spare
E-10 Link 2000 de-powered This indicates that power was removed and restored to the Link 2000.
E-11 Spare
E-12 Battery #1 voltage sense leads open Blue wire is not connected to battery #1.
E-13 Battery #2 voltage sense leads open Violet wire is not connected to battery #2. E-14 Inappropriate Charged V selected for sensed voltage This value defaults to 13.2 for a 12-volt system, 26.4 for a 24-volt system. If this setting is above the voltage limits of the charging source, this error code will be displayed. Please refer to page 9 of the Link 2000 Owner?s Manual
E-15 Incoming AC polarity reversed Check incoming AC wiring for a reverse polarity condition.
CCC Indicates battery being charged. Displayed when Time remaining is selected. LO BAT More than 50% of declared capacity of battery 1 or battery 3 has been consumed.
OL Meter reading out of range U xx Designates a user setup CEF. Please read the sections pertaining to CEF on pages 19?22. A Designates Alternator output current on a Link 2000-R. is a number from 1?200. P Indicates Percent of charge mode selected. is a number from 1?100.

on May 14, 2015 | Xantrex Technology Electronics - Others

1 Answer

1997 Honda VF 750 C Magna battery not charging


Hi, Cody before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Pretty sure not charging
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Honda Magna VF750C Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda 1995 VF750C Magna Owner Manual

Apr 14, 2013 | 1997 Honda VF 750 C Magna

1 Answer

1981 honda cm 450 starter button makes all the lights go out


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1981 cm400 won start
1983 HONDAMATIC 450 Starter Problems
Honda CB400T Shop Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CB Owners Manuals

Mar 22, 2013 | Honda Motorcycles

1 Answer

2005 Kawasaki EL 125 Eliminator is not charging


Hi, Leedhurn before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
How to diagnose and repair motorcycle charging problems
Kawasaki Eliminator 125 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2009 Kawasaki Eliminator 125 Owner Manual

Aug 27, 2017 | 2005 kawasaki EL 125 Eliminator

1 Answer

Battery not charging on 1992 stcfx


To check the charging system, you need a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter). Make sure the battery is fully charged or you'll get a bad reading. With the battery fully charged, connect the meter "across" the battery but connecting the meter's red lead to the positive battery post and the black lead to the battery negative post. Put the meter's function selection switch in DC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Your meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts.

If it does not, you need to check the alternator output. Find the plug in the lower front of the engine case where the regulator wires plug into the engine. Unplug the plug and look into the engine side of the plug. There are two metal contacts inside the plug. These metal plugs are where we are going to put our meter probes to test the output. Put on probe on each metal plug. It makes no difference which probe goes where just don't let them touch the engine case or each other. Put the meter's function selector switch in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE . Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch the meter probes to the two metal plugs in the engine case. Your meter should read 30 volts or greater.

If the alternator does not read thirty volts, make sure you meter is in the AC VOLT scale and you've got good contact on the metal plugs in the engine. If you still don't read at least 30 volts, you stator is bad and must be replaced. If you 30 volts or more but you don't have the 14 volts at the battery, the regulator is probably bad. Make sure the regulator is grounded properly.

Good luck
Steve

Mar 17, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard...

1 Answer

I just purchased yesterday and found recall notice in upper tour pack. The battery was low charged over night and am going to check voltage and amps at battery while running today. What are the telltail...


With the battery fully charged, use a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the output of the charging system. Connect it across the battery, red meter lead to positive, black meter lead to negative. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle of about 1500-2000 RPM. The meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts.

If the meter does not read correctly, unplug the regulator where it enters the front of the engine case. You'll be measuring the AC voltage at the engine case side of the plug. Put your meter's function switch in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT range. Put one meter lead into one metal contact in the plug and the other lead into the other metal contact in the plug. Makes no difference which lead goes to which metal contact. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read 30 volts or better.

If you do not read 30 volts at the engine, your stator is bad. If you have 30 volts or more at the engine but low voltage at the battery, your regulator is probably bad. This is a simple test and it's accuracy is about 90% or so.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 31, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

What is the center pin used for on the HP 3710b business notebook?I am using a IGO aftermarket power adapter that has the three pin connector tip with center pin like the one DELL uses.Checked with volt...


so what is the full service tag data?
3710b or 6710b, you posted both , and is not complete at all those numbers, (vast submodels exist)
the former number dont fly..

if the PC run ok, on AC pack (HP spec, pack) no battery installed then it (pack) and the PC are ok (no bad jacks)

leaving 2 things, battery (that love to fail) or the charging chip you can not unsolder, ever and replace.

the center pin, seen on the schematic
https://elektrotanya.com/hp_compaq_6510b_6710b_inventec_dd1.0_dosxx_dunkel_1.0_rev_a02_sch.pdf/download.html


or is the AC line loss early warning. (tells PC to go to battery early)
this signal ends up on the charge chip
called Charge Control line.

the schematic is free.
have no battery pack schematic that drives this pin
but its tells the PC to go to (battery early, as power fails AC)
the changer over is not instant
so they this pin tells the PC early, the power is failing
my guess, it can detect power loss, in the pack, in 2 milliseconds flat. (power loss early warning)
limit-sig-3j5bl5h152snddnteogw53vw-5-0.jpg

Oct 05, 2017 | HP Compaq 6710b Notebook

2 Answers

Battery will not charge


To check your charging system, first, you must have a fully charged battery in the bike. Start the bike up and using a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) put the red lead on the positive post and the black lead on the negative post. Put the meter in DC Volts, 50 volt range. Idle the bike up a bit and you should read about 14.5 to 14.8 volts.

If you don't get anymore than 12.6 volts at the battery. Go to the left side of the engine and pull the connector for the stator at the front of the engine. Put your meter in AC volts, 50 volt range. Touch one meter lead to one pin and the other to the other pin. It makes no difference which lead goes where just don't allow the lead to touch the engine case. Your meter should read 25-35 Volts AC at this point. Notice the AC, not DC, voltage at the stator. Make sure your meter is in DC at the battery test and AC at the stator test. If you have less than 15 volts at the stator, your stator is bad. If the voltage is where it should be at the stator, you voltage regulator is probably bad.

Good Luck
Steve

May 29, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

Roketa Bali 150 not charging


Hi, Brucep63 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Roketa Bali 250 Battery not charging
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf
http://www.roketapartsdept.com/
Roketa bali 150 Owner Manual

Jul 05, 2017 | Roketa 150cc cheap Scooters

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