Question about Polaroid FLM-3732 Television

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Can't get the darn panel offin the back of the TV

I tried to take the back panel off but no matter how many screws I take out it still won't budge. Someone please Help. Ty Clarissa of Colorado

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Only 3 screws necessary to remove back plastic panel.
(1 large black, 2 small black)
Pull down - use fingernails if needed - and out to remove.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r741402-polaroid_flm_373b_lcd_tv_black_screen

Posted on May 22, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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This advice is for Kenmore Elite, Whirlpool Duet and Maytag Epic model FRONT LOADING washing machines. If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain properly or the drain pump makes excessive noise, here’s the information you need to check the drain pump:

  1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
  2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
  3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
  4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
  5. Here’s a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don’t own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
  6. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there’s nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
  7. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten.
  8. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT – DO NOT FORGET!).
  9. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console – DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). “C00” will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
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  12. If the drain pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall the bottom panel and tighten screws.

NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.

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None of the suggested solutions worked for me and my Elph 300HS. However, I took it apart, removing the back. There was a screw inside holding on the front panel which I could not budge no matter what, so I gave up. I put it back together, reinserted the battery, powered on and voila, it was back to normal. Perhaps disconnecting the battery for a while was key. Had I not tried the multi-step approach suggested, it would still be stuck. Caution: Beware the capacitor. It must be discharged if you go into the camera or it can knock you across the room.

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None of the suggested solutions worked for me and my Elph 300HS. However, I took it apart, removing the back. There was a screw inside holding on the front panel which I could not budge no matter what, so I gave up. I put it back together, reinserted the battery, powered on and voila, it was back to normal. Perhaps disconnecting the battery for a while was key. Had I not tried the multi-step approach suggested, it would still be stuck.

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Don't even bother. I have 3 Delta shower faucets and have run into the same issue WITH ALL 3 .

Step 1: Call Delta and have them send you replacement parts before you follow the next step (Trim sleeve, cartridge, handle)

Step 2: HACKSAW just outside the handle, right through until it snaps off.
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I tried eveything - Vinegar, WD40, CLR, Banging, Jiggling...

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I called Delta and they confirmed that the two metals will fuse together over time (a short period of time, in my case), but it's not a fault design but the water. Their solution (moving forward) is to wrap the brass nipple with Teflon Tape before attaching the handle, so that the 2 metals won't make contact.

However, one would think that Delta would rectify this issue. Say by enclosing a thin plastic cap that seats over the brass nipple, or better yet, pre-coat the inside of the handle themselves?

Regardless, don't expend too much energy. If you can't loosen anything,

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