Question about True GDM-7 Beverage Cooler

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Replacing temperature control on a True beverage cooler

How do I access the inside of the evaporator unit at the top of cooler
to place the probe correctly. This is a sliding 2 door model.

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  • Anonymous Mar 26, 2014

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Remove the doors, then the evaporator cover. Just be careful.

Posted on May 20, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How do you remove the evaporator cover on a Tbb-2 cooler?


PDF]True Manufacturing Company, Inc. - Fixitshop.com

https://fixitshop.com/manuals/TECHNI~1.PDF
Top Removal for TBB and TDD ... Top Removal for Various Coolers - TSSU, TWT, TUC ... End Cap Replacement-T-Series Swing Door ... GDM 2 Door Cooler IDL Light Diagnosis ... If you keep the Condenser clean you will minimize service ...

[PDF]installation - True Manufacturing

https://www.truemfg.com/assets/...Website/TDB_TBB.../tbb_english.pdf
Your TRUE cooler when properly maintained will give you many years of trouble-free service. TO LOCATE REFRIGERANT ..... Removing bracket from skid. Removingbracket from cabinet. 1. 2 .... tab holding the door cord slides out the back. ... The switch is located on the front of the evaporator housing toward the front of .

Nov 08, 2015 | True TBB-2G-S Stainless Steel Beverage...

1 Answer

2 of 3 sliding doors don`t close on tgm-69r


there is a string and a weight on the inside of each door. if you cannot find the string it may be broken. lift and remove the door from the unit, then remove two screws from both top sides of the door and the top of the door itself will come off. you can then lean the door over, the weight should slide out.

Apr 16, 2014 | Turbo Air Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge is leaking water from the inside, on the back wall


Your freezer drain is clogged or frozen up with ice blockage. Need to remove the freezer floor liner, usually 2-4 1/4" screws holding it in - slide it out. Next slowly pour hot water over ice build up and melt all ice. The drain is under the evaporator coils (small hole near center) this connects to a pan under the refrigerator that then evaporates on its own. I usually place a couple of bowls inside fresh food area on top shelf to catch excess water dripping through ceiling of fresh foods.

Next you will need to attach a heat probe from the heater under the freezer coils and feed it into the drain in order to prevent freezing up again. Use part #819043 heat probe or strip some #14 gauge copper wire and wrap around heater once and place down through drain. Recommend the heat probe 819043 to get it right the first time.

Jan 30, 2011 | Roper RT21AKXKQ Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

At times, there is water that freezes under the vegetable/fruit drawers that are at the bottom of the refrigerator. Also, at times there may be a thin layer of ice on the floor of the top freezer. I'm...


Your freezer drain is clogged or frozen up with ice blockage. Need to remove the freezer floor liner, usually 2-4 1/4" screws holding it in - slide it out. Next slowly pour hot water over ice build up and melt all ice. The drain is under the evaporator coils (small hole near center) this connects to a pan under the refrigerator that then evaporates on its own. I usually place a couple of bowls inside fresh food area on top shelf to catch excess water dripping through ceiling of fresh foods.

Next you will need to attach a heat probe from the heater under the freezer coils and feed it into the drain in order to prevent freezing up again. Use part #819043 heat probe or strip some #14 gauge copper wire and wrap around heater once and place down through drain. Recommend the heat probe 819043 to get it right the first time.

Jan 30, 2011 | Roper RT21SKXLQ Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

My door doesn't seal/catch when closing. Machine


If the door switchmechanism is still in place inside the door, you should be able to see it when you open the door ,it is visible on the inside if the door top centre if it is intact then it could be that the actuator bracket has moved, this is located under the top panel front centre and is held in position by an hexagonal nut. the top is secured at the back of the machine by 2 screws one on the left and one on the right remove the two screws slide the top to the rear approx 1/2 inch lift off the top you can now access the door catch bracket, close the door and adjust the bracket forward so that it latches securely but don't position it to far forward or it could bottom on the back of the door mechanism, if everthing is in place unit should be fixed, reposition top onto the two front lugs and slide top gently forward replace the two screwws at the back and you should be in business

Apr 29, 2010 | Hotpoint 24 in. FDW60 Free-standing...

1 Answer

Fan sliding


Tha fan is fixed to the shaft (bar) with a set screw. It is located at the hub at the back of the fan.

May 24, 2009 | Mastercool 67680 Evaporative Cooler Air...

1 Answer

GE CONVECTION OVEN. WE GET DISPLAY MESSAGE F2


Diagnosis= failed thermister (temp probe inside the oven cavity) The part number is WB23X5340 and it lists for ~$72.00 at your local appliance parts place.

Bad news is that you have to pull the oven out of the wall to do this repair.

Good news is that it's not difficult to do.

TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BEFORE YOU PROCEED!

Otherwise you'd look like this...
6966093.jpg

Ready? OK!

All you need is;
1.) Phillips screwdriver
2.) 1/4" socket/nutdriver
3.) Ratchet if you don't have a nut driver
4.) 36 quart Igloo ice cooler (like what you'd take to the lake or the beach)
5.) Sturdy wire (smaller than a coat hanger, preferably)
6.) Flashlight

Did I mention TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BOX?

Now we're ready for surgery.

Open the oven door and look where the oven meets the wood. You'll see a couple of screws there... remove them. Now the oven is ready to pull.
Place your Igloo cooler under the oven. Slowly pull the oven from the cavity until you have it out and sitting on the cooler. (don't sweat it... the oven is light. maybe 75 pounds or so.)

Now that you have it out, open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Look inside (may need a flashlight) and locate the temp probe, there are 2 screws holding it in place. Remove those 2 screws and set them inside the oven cavity, you'll need them soon.

Now go to the back of the oven (slide it if necessary) and remove the back panel. (*Here's a tip... some of these GE units? All you have to do is remove one screw to access the temp probe, so look carefully... don't go nuts here. Sometimes the whole panel/panels DON'T have to come off)

You'll see the temp probe wires... they are 2 small white thermally insulated wires coming from the cavity to the wire harness in the back. Disconnect this harness and pull the old probe out from the front of the oven cavity.

OK... now to get the new probe installed... See that plastic thing on the end of the new probe? It's a pain to get through the cavity where you'll be plugging it into. It's best to have help. but it can be done alone (I've never had help, it's just harder)

Take the sturdy wire (from the tools list) and make a small hook at the end of it. Poke it through the hole that the old probe was stuck through. Now hook your new probe into the hook. Now go to the rear of the oven and gently (did I say gently?) pull it through to the back of the oven.

Now that you have it through, connect it to the harness. Now all you have to do is reinstall the rear panel/s and the oven. No biggy. Just take care not to scratch your wood trim... line it up before lifting and installing.

All in all about an hour's worth of work. I know it sounds like alot more but I could have done this in less time than it took me to type it.

Congrat's on your first major oven fix! Let us know how it turned out.

Mar 17, 2009 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

GE JKP26G Electric Oven Doesn't Maintain Temperature


Diagnosis= failed thermister (temp probe inside the oven cavity) The part number is WB23X5340 and it lists for ~$72.00 at your local appliance parts place.

Bad news is that you have to pull the oven out of the wall to do this repair.

Good news is that it's not difficult to do.

TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BEFORE YOU PROCEED! Otherwise you'd look like this...
bcdb604.jpg


Ready? OK!

All you need is;
1.) Phillips screwdriver
2.) 1/4" socket/nutdriver
3.) Ratchet if you don't have a nut driver
4.) 36 quart Igloo ice cooler (like what you'd take to the lake or the beach)
5.) Sturdy wire (smaller than a coat hanger, preferably)
6.) Flashlight

Did I mention TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BOX?

Now we're ready for surgery.

Open the oven door and look where the oven meets the wood. You'll see a couple of screws there... remove them. Now the oven is ready to pull.
Place your Igloo cooler under the oven. Slowly pull the oven from the cavity until you have it out and sitting on the cooler. (don't sweat it... the oven is light. maybe 75 pounds or so.)

Now that you have it out, open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Look inside (may need a flashlight) and locate the temp probe, there are 2 screws holding it in place. Remove those 2 screws and set them inside the oven cavity, you'll need them soon.

Now go to the back of the oven (slide it if necessary) and remove the back panel. (*Here's a tip... some of these GE units? All you have to do is remove one screw to access the temp probe, so look carefully... don't go nuts here. Sometimes the whole panel/panels DON'T have to come off)

You'll see the temp probe wires... they are 2 small white thermally insulated wires coming from the cavity to the wire harness in the back. Disconnect this harness and pull the old probe out from the front of the oven cavity.

OK... now to get the new probe installed... See that plastic thing on the end of the new probe? It's a pain to get through the cavity where you'll be plugging it into. It's best to have help. but it can be done alone (I've never had help, it's just harder)

Take the sturdy wire (from the tools list) and make a small hook at the end of it. Poke it through the hole that the old probe was stuck through. Now hook your new probe into the hook. Now go to the rear of the oven and gently (did I say gently?) pull it through to the back of the oven.

Now that you have it through, connect it to the harness. Now all you have to do is reinstall the rear panel/s and the oven. No biggy. Just take care not to scratch your wood trim... line it up before lifting and installing.

All in all about an hour's worth of work. I know it sounds like alot more but I could have done this in less time than it took me to type it.

Congrat's on your first major oven fix! Let us know how it turned out.

Mar 14, 2009 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Access motor


Your dryer and motor can accessed a couple different ways depending on the make and model:

1. Can be the Top (remove 2 screws near filter-pull) can slide a putty knife and screw driver and pop the top off.

2. Also, the Door must be taken off to access the motor (Screws on inside of door)

3. Bottom - panel comes off by sliding a putty knife or screw driver and dis-engaging.

After intially opening the dryer cabinet; you will most likely need to remove the front door by removing 2 screws located at the inside top corners (1/4'). ** Be sure to turn off power to unit before opening and servicing.

Whats the problem? Humming noise? Not tumbling/turning? How old? What make?

Jan 27, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

True 2 door light problem


I believe that unit has a ballast tucked in somewhere in the compressor compartment. It may be easier to access from the back of the unit. I don't think it has a starter.

Dec 09, 2008 | True TD-95-38-LT Beverage Cooler

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