Question about Mitsubishi Mr. Slim MXZ30TN Air Conditioner

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Ice forming on wall unit

I have three wall mounted units upstairs, but one of them has started collecting ice on the heat exchange coil. Any ideas.

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Either the system is blocked at the coil or theirs no circulation over the coils, flush the system and check the fan operation

Posted on May 20, 2009

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Why is my heil Air exchanger fan not blowing


Sounds like you may have a bade blower motor.

Aug 17, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

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Why is Ice Forming on my Heat Pump


Many people have heat pumps and never realize that ice can form on the outdoor unit. Some have seen ice on their heat pumps but do not know how much is too much until they have a problem with not enough heat. Still others have a backup heat source and never know that they have a problem.

First off lets establish that heat pumps will form ice on the outdoor unit, usually whenever the outdoor temperatures go below about 40 degrees F. This threshold for ice depends a lot on the humidity of the air outside. If it is raining or snowing, the ice will form much more readily and rapidly. It is normal for ice to form on the outdoor unit because it is the cold side of the system when it is running in the heating mode. Because of this cooling, if the outdoor temperature is near or below freezing and there is moisture in the air, it will condense and freeze on the unit.

To keep the ice from building up to the point where it stops all the air flow, the outdoor unit will have a defrost timer board. This operates in conjunction with a sensor. Every 30 – 90 minutes the board will check the sensor. If the sensor tells the board that ice has formed on the coil it will then change the unit over from heating to cooling. This will make the outdoor unit the hot side for a short time to melt away the ice. While it does this, the unit will also energize the back up heat which is often an electric coil or a furnace. This will keep the inside air from blowing cold while the unit is defrosting.
When the sensor feels the coil temperature at about 50 degrees F it will then tell the board to return to the regular heating and switch the coils around again.

If this process fails to work for some reason the outdoor coil will become a big block of ice and look something like this.

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When your outdoor coil becomes totally frozen over it stops all the air flow through the coil and stops the heating process. In extreme case it can be very difficult and becomes a very long process to defrost the coil. You need to practice a lot of patience and care when defrosting a badly frozen coil. A torch or preferably a heat gun (hair dryer) can be used to speed up the defrost process. If it continues to occur the timer needs to be set to defrost more often or either the timer or the sensor has gone bad.

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on Jan 30, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Fridge freezer, water inlet pipe keeps warming up


The home icemaker's predecessor was the plastic ice tray. It's fairly obvious how this device works: You pour water into a mold, leave it in the freezer until it turns to a solid and then extract the ice cubes. An icemaker does exactly the same thing, but the process of pouring water and extracting cubes is fully automated. A home icemaker is an ice-cube assembly line.

Most icemakers use an electric motor, an electrically operated water valve and an electrical heating unit. To provide power to all these elements, you have to hook the icemaker up to the electrical circuit powering your refigerator. You also have to hook the icemaker up to the plumbing line in your house, to provide fresh water for the ice cubes. The power line and the water-intake tube both run through a hole in the back of the freezer.

When everything is hooked up, the icemaker begins its cycle. The cycle is usually controlled by a simple electrical circuit and a series of switches.

At the beginning of the cycle, a timed switch in the circuit briefly sends current to a solenoid water valve. In most designs, the water valve is actually positioned behind the refrigerator, but it is connected to the central circuit via electrical wires. When the circuit sends current down these wires, the charge moves a solenoid (a type of electromagnet), which opens the valve.

The valve is only open for about seven seconds; it lets in just enough water to fill the ice mold. The ice mold is a plastic well, with several connected cavities. Typically, these cavities have a curved, half-circle shape. Each of the cavity walls has a small notch in it so each ice cube will be attached to the cube next to it.

Once the mold is filled, the machine waits for the water in the mold to freeze. The cooling unit in the refrigerator does the actual work of freezing the water, not the icemaker itself. The icemaker has a built-in thermostat, which monitors the temperature level of the water in the molds. When the temperature dips to a particular level -- say, 9 degrees Fahrenheit (-13 degrees Celsius) -- the thermostat closes a switch in the electrical circuit.

Closing this switch lets electrical current flow through a heating coil underneath the icemaker. As the coil heats up, it warms the bottom of the ice mold, loosening the ice cubes from the mold surface.

The electrical circuit then activates the icemaker's motor. The motor spins a gear, which rotates another gear attached to a long plastic shaft. The shaft has a series of ejector blades extending out from it. As the blades revolve, they scoop the ice cubes up and out of the mold, pushing them to the front of the icemaker. Since the cubes are connected to one another, they move as a single unit.

At the front of the icemaker, there are plastic notches in the housing that match up with the ejector blades. The blades pass through these notches, and the cubes are pushed out to a collection bin underneath the icemaker.

The revolving shaft has a notched plastic cam at its base. Just before the cubes are pushed out of the icemaker, the cam catches hold of the shut-off arm, lifting it up. After the cubes are ejected, the arm falls down again. When the arm reaches its lowest resting position, it throws a switch in the circuit, which activates the water valve to begin another cycle. If the arm can't reach its lowest position, because there are stacked-up ice cubes in the way, the cycle is interrupted. This keeps the icemaker from filling your entire freezer with ice; it will only make more cubes when there is room in the collection bin.

This system is effective for making ice at home, but it doesn't produce enough ice for commercial purposes, such as restaurants and self-service hotel ice machines. In the next section, we'll look at a larger, more powerful icemaker design.

There are any number of ways to configure a large, free-standing icemaker -- all you need is a refrigeration system, a water supply and some way of collecting the ice that forms.

One of the simplest professional systems uses a large metal ice-cube tray, positioned vertically.

In this system, the metal ice tray is connected to a set of coiled heat-exchanging pipes like the ones on the back of your refrigerator. A compressor drives a stream of refrigerant fluid in a continuous cycle of condensation and expansion. Basically, the compressor forces refrigerant through a narrow tube (called the condenser) to condense it, and then releases it into a wider tube (called the evaporator), where it can expand.

Compressing the refrigerant raises its pressure, which increases its temperature. As the refrigerant passes through the narrow condenser coils, it loses heat to the cooler air outside, and it condenses into a liquid. When the compressed fluid passes through the expansion valve, it evaporates -- it expands to become a gas. This evaporation process draws in heat energy from the metal pipes and the air around the refrigerant. This cools the pipes and the attached metal ice tray.

The icemaker has a water pump, which draws water from a collection sump and pours it over the chilled ice tray. As the water flows over the tray, it gradually freezes, building up ice cubes in the well of the tray. When you freeze water layer by layer this way, it forms clear ice. When you freeze it all at once, as in the home icemaker, you get cloudy ice.

After a set amount of time, the icemaker triggers a solenoid valve connected to the heat-exchanging coils. Switching this valve changes the path of the refrigerant. The compressor stops forcing the heated gas from the compressor into the narrow condenser; instead, it forces the gas into a wide bypass tube. The hot gas is cycled back to the evaporator without condensing. When you force this hot gas through the evaporator pipes, the pipes and the ice tray heat up rapidly, which loosens the ice cubes.

Typically, the individual cube cavities are slanted so the loosened ice will slide out on their own, into a collection bin below. Some systems have a cylinder piston that gives the tray a little shove, knocking the cubes loose.

This sort of system is popular in restaurants and hotels because it makes ice cubes with a standard shape and size. Other businesses, such as grocery stores and scientific research firms, need smaller ice flakes for packing perishable items. We'll look at flake icemakers next.

In the last section, we looked at a standard cube icemaker design. Flake icemakers work on the same basic principle as cube icemakers, but they have an additional component: the ice crusher. You can see how a typical flake system works in the diagram below.

Like the cube icemaker design we examined in the last section, this machine uses a set of heat-exchanging coils and a stream of water to build up a layer of ice. But in this system, the coils are positioned inside a large metal cylinder. Water passes through the cylinder, as well as around its outer edges. The passing water gradually builds up a large column of ice surrounding the cylinder from the inside and outside.

As with a cube icemaker, a solenoid valve releases hot gas into the cooling pipes after a set length of time. This loosens the ice column so it falls into the ice crusher below. The ice crusher breaks the ice cylinder into small pieces, which pass on to a collection bin.

The size of the ice bits depends on the crusher mechanism. Some crushers grind the ice into fine flakes, while other crushers produce larger, irregularly shaped ice chunks.

There are many variations on these designs, but the basic idea in all of them is the same. A refrigeration system builds up a layer of ice, and a harvesting system ejects the ice into a collection bin. At the most basic level, this is all there is to any icemaker.


Mercedes Custom parts

Jun 05, 2012 | Kenmore Fridge Freezer Ice Pan Part...

2 Answers

I am not having a problem with my portable air conditioner unit but I do have a question about the unit having a heating fan. What would a heating fan be used for in a Air Condtiioning unit with...


To defrost the heat exchanger in between cooling cycles. As it air conditions, it pulls moisture out of the air, and causes a layer of frost to form on the heat exchanger. Some units just let this frost melt off. But if it doesn't completely melt, it can start to form an unmeltable glacier. Since your unit in a dehumidifier model, it probably relies on the heater fan to ensure that you don't get an ice-up on the exchanger.

Mar 21, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Refrigerator isn't cold enough, but the freezer is fine. Model number is PSS26MSWASS, Serial number is GM439772, I turned up the temp for the Refrigerator, but its not that cold.


This problem is related to defrost.The defrost cycle is not running as it should be. The other possibility can be ice blockage in the ventilations.The defrost is not working,.The evaporator coil in the inner section of freezer is got blocked by ice .
Try manual defrost reset procedure: ----
First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. It will take near to 4 hours to get run in its proper cooling cycle. Then check, if the problem returns again. If the same problem occurs then it's defrost problem. The defrost board and the defrost thermostat/heater is not functioning properly and it has to be checked and replaced.
-------------------------------------------------
Check the damper if there is too much water collected in the damper then press the damper and remove the water collected in it. The procedure of this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the refrigerator section and the refrigerator section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the section, in that section the damper is located. Now this problem which you mentioned. In this problem the freezer works but no cooling in fridge, this happens if the thermostat is not functioning or the heater is not heating. Then the ice starts getting collected on the evaporator coil. The evaporator coil is at the internal section of freezer. If too much ice gets
collected then this ice blocks the fan in the freezer section from functioning and this blocks the damper section with ice getting collected there. This all procedure is controlled by the main defrost board of the unit. Now if the damper is not got blocked with too much water or if the ice is not got collected on the damper area then check the evaporator coils. If there is too much ice got collected on the coils, then takes a hair dryer and melt the collected ice. Then see if the problem returns again. But if there is little bit ice collected on the coils and fan is running properly then it's not a problem. In that case main defrost board is faulty and it has to be replaced. The main defrost board is working but its not controlling the functions as required so the freezer works but fridge section not getting cold..
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You can get required parts from sears part direct online site or from repairclinic.com site.
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This will help. Thanks. Helpmech.

Mar 01, 2011 | GE Profile 25.6 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

On the kenmore 363.59522996 side by side the freezer is working good but the fridge will not cool and looking for the cause??


This problem is related to defrost.The defrost cycle is not running as it should be. The other possibility can be ice blockage in the ventilations.

The defrost is not working,.The evaporator coil in the inner section of freezer is got blocked by ice .

Try manual defrost reset procedure: ----

First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. It will take near to 4 hours to get run in its proper cooling cycle. Then check, if the problem returns again. If the same problem occurs then it's defrost problem. The defrost board and the defrost thermostat/heater is not functioning properly and it has to be checked and replaced.

-------------------------------------------------

Check the damper if there is too much water collected in the damper then press the damper and remove the water collected in it. The procedure of this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the refrigerator section and the refrigerator section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the section, in that section the damper is located. Now this problem which you mentioned. In this problem the freezer works but no cooling in fridge, this happens if the thermostat is not functioning or the heater is not heating. Then the ice starts getting collected on the evaporator coil. The evaporator coil is at the internal section of freezer. If too much ice gets

collected then this ice blocks the fan in the freezer section from functioning and this blocks the damper section with ice getting collected there. This all procedure is controlled by the main defrost board of the unit. Now if the damper is not got blocked with too much water or if the ice is not got collected on the damper area then check the evaporator coils. If there is too much ice got collected on the coils, then takes a hair dryer and melt the collected ice. Then see if the problem returns again. But if there is little bit ice collected on the coils and fan is running properly then it's not a problem. In that case main defrost board is faulty and it has to be replaced. The main defrost board is working but its not controlling the functions as required so the freezer works but fridge section not getting cold..

---------

You can get required parts from sears part direct online site or from repairclinic.com site.

--------

This will help. Thanks. Helpmech.

Feb 25, 2011 | Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side...

1 Answer

This unit keeps forming ice in the outdoor coil section and breaking the outdoor coil fan blade. Heats fine once replaced but is it compressor suppose to cut off when it gets a certain temperature outside...


If its forming ice it's either low on refrigerant of its not going into defrost mode. If it runs for a few minutes and the lines begin to ice up, it's low on refrigerant and needs to be serviced.

Jan 25, 2011 | GE AZ38H12DAB Thru-Wall/Window Air...

2 Answers

Hello, My condensing unit (LG-LMU245HV) and my wall unit (LG-LMN185HV) are brand new and were installed just one month ago. Everything has been running fine but now all of a sudden now the air coming...


Hi, when the copper lines at the condensing unit, the larger of the 2- start to form ice, you have a freon leak. The unit is new, so I would expect the leak to be at one of the welded/brazed joints. What will happen, is the indoor unit, the evaporator coil will start to ice over and block off all air flow through through the coil. I hate to tell you this, you will need to call the installer out to do a leak check on the unit. They will then need to pump it down, braze the leak with sil-phos, or silver solder and recharge the unit. This is the problem, I see this a lot on new units. Someone forgot to do a leak check on it. Being only a month old, it has to have a warranty on it, shouldn't cost you a dime, but this is the problem, indeed!! Please keep me updated on this and get them out there. It will never cool until they fix the leak and recharge it. Please don't forget to rate me on this, I know you will be kind. Keep me posted and you can contact me by my user name below. Thank you Zeke! You still have freon in the unit, just low enough to start the suction line outside to start to ice and loose your cooling.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

Aug 06, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Ice coming from unit?? WHy would ice be "spitting" from front indoor wall unit


The unit has frozen up, and the fan is blowing out small particles of ice.

Freeze up is due to Improper airflow, and/or low refrigerant charge.
In the case of a heatpump, it can also be due to a malfunctioning defrost cycle.

Most likely, the filter and/or coils are dirty, causing an air restriction. I'd reccoment cleaning both coils and the filter. Let the system defrost, and run it again. If the problem persists, you have a refrigerant problem.
(or a defrost issue with a wall mount heat pump.)

Feb 07, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Ice on the coil fins of my Window AC unit......


set your unit to fan mode only, to thaw the ice, after the ice melts, look at your evaporator coil, see if its dirty, if its dirty, then you might just need a good cleaning. if the coil is clean, look at your thermostat setting. it should not be all the way cold. the compressor would run continously and it would freeze the coil. third, the refrigerant system could be partially clogged up or it lacks refrigerant. these problems initiate freezing of the coil.

Feb 18, 2008 | Carrier 52PQ307 Wall/Window Air...

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