Question about Craftsman Chipper Shredder Manual Model 247.776350

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Replacing engine I have model 247.776350 (7.5 hp). How do I separate the impeller assembly from the engine and inner flail housing?

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How to separate pump from motor


take screws off around housing that separates motor from wet end remove diffuser then remove screw from impeller backwards thread and hold back shaft of motor after removing still hold shaft and turn impeller off regular threads make sure to replace seals

Apr 16, 2013 | Pentair 1 hp WhisperFlo InGround Pool Pump...

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Remove motar from whisper flo pump


Replacing your pool pump motor
Gather the following items.
Phillips and flat head screwdrivers
Circuit tester
Dry towel
Step One
First, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. This means turning off the breaker at the panel box and not just the switch at the pump.
Step Two - Removing the motor assembly
Remove the four hex head bolts which hold the motor assembly to the pump/strainer housing (These bolts may not be visible).
Slide the motor assembly out of the pump/strainer housing, exposing the diffuser. Pull the diffuser of of the seal plate, exposing the impeller. (The diffuser may remain in the pump/strainer housing. To remove, pull it straight out of the strainer housing.)
There will be a gasket or O-ring sealing between the motor mounting bracket and the strainer housing. Inspect this thoroughly and replace if necessary. An economical option would be to purchase a Go-Kit which includes the pump shaft seal and all necessary o-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump.
Step Three
Now, you can lift up the motor with bracket attached to get to the wiring more easily. There may be a bare copper ground wire attached to the outside of the motor that you will need to disconnect. Remove the cover plate on the back of the motor to get access to the wiring. You should have one green wire that is the ground wire and two other wires that are your leads. The lead wires should be black and white but could be any other color except green. Disconnect these wires (they may be attached to a screw, held down by a nut, or clipped on with a terminal clip).
Step Four
Next, you will need to disconnect the conduit (sleeve covering wires between motor and switch or junction box). This usually means unscrewing the compression nut that is screwed on the adaptor which is screwed to the motor. After unscrewing the conduit compression nut, you can pull out the wires from the motor. If you wish to reuse the adaptor, unscrew it from the motor.
Step Five
Now you must remove the impeller from the motor. Remove the volute covering the impeller if it is there. (Some are screwed on). You will need to go to the opposite end of the motor and pop off the plate covering the shaft. The shaft will either have a slot in it for a screw driver or is flattened to allow you to put an open end box wrench on it. This will allow you to unscrew the impeller. You will unscrew in the direction that is opposite to the direction that the veins point at the outside of the impeller. This is the same direction that the motor will rotate the impeller. This may look backwards but the water comes into the center of the impeller and rolls off the veins away from the impeller by centrifugal force. As you take the impeller off, be sure to note how the pump seal is positioned. We highly recommend replacing the pump seal with the purchase of a Go-Kit when replacing the motor.
Step Six
Now you can see the bolts that hold the motor mounting bracket to the motor. Unbolt these, separating the motor mounting bracket from the motor. You are ready to reverse the process to install the new motor.
Step Seven
Important Notes on Reassembly: DO NOT touch the ceramic faces of the seal; This may cause the seal to burn up and leak. Be sure to tighten the impeller completely. Be sure to wire the new motor for 110V or 220V depending on what you have. This may be a simple switch in the motor or you may need to use the wiring diagram on the motor to set for the proper voltage. (Black tracer means the white wire with a black line corkscrewing around it.) Be sure to put the volute back on, aligning properly. Be sure to reconnect the bare copper ground wire to the ground lug on the new motor. When tightening bolts, alternate tightening a few turns at a time to seat evenly or the pump may leak. Fill the strainer housing with water before starting the motor to prime system and prevent damage to seal and impeller.
More Helpful information on how to replace a pool motor
Shaft Seal installation
Clean and lubricate the impeller hub shaft and pump housing seal recess with a dilute solution of non-granulated liquid-type soap
Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean, soft cotton cloth. Press the spring seal assembly onto the impeller hub with black polished surface facing away from impeller.
Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a soft cotton cloth. Lubricate the O-ring on the ceramic seat and press it firmly and evenly into the recess of the seal plate with polished side facing out.
Place the seal plate onto the motor mounting bracket aligning the positioning lug and guide.
Replacing the impeller and diffuser
Slide the motor assembly, with the diffuser in place, into pump/strainer housing, being careful not to dislodge the diffuser.
Fasten assembly to housing using the four bolts. (Be sure housing gasket is in place.) Tighten alternately and evenly

Oct 03, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

How to remove impeller Assembly from Troy bilt shredder model 414


You will need to remove the hopper assembly from the inlet guide. Then remove the front (Chute Deflector Assembly). There should be about 13 or 14 screws and a couple of bolts that holds the front assembly to the (Inner Flail Housing Assembly). Once the front chute deflector assembly has been removed, now you will be able to access the Impeller Assembly a lot easier. Your not out of the woods yet. Soak the bolt down that holds the impeller assembly to the output shaft from the engine. WD-40 oil is okay but would highly recommend PB Blaster and that can be found at your local parts store. Let the penetrating oil soak for about 20 - 30 minutes and then remove bolt. After the bolt is out, spray more penetrating oil in the bolt hole to get the penetrating oil to soak between impeller assembly and engine output shaft. The easiest way to remove the impeller assembly from the engine drive shaft is to use a harmonic or a gear puller set. You can rent one from a auto parts store for cheap. Or if you don't have access to a puller set, lightly tap around the bolt hole opening of the impeller assembly with a mid size brass hammer. The vibration of the impact from the hammer should help loosen up the impeller assembly from the engine output shaft. If the light hammering doesn't work, you have no choice but to get a puller kit. Hope this information helps out.

Feb 25, 2013 | Garden

1 Answer

Front ceal is leaking


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Fig. Fig. 9: Removing the ball joint to steering knuckle clamp bolt


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Fig. Fig. 10: Remove the retaining bolt and remove the speedometer pinion from the transaxle assembly


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Fig. Fig. 11: Separate the ball joint from the knuckle by prying downward against the knuckle and arm


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Fig. Fig. 12: Separate the outer CV-joint splines from the knuckle hub by holding the CV-housing and pushing the knuckle out


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Fig. Fig. 13: Support the assembly and pull outward on the inner CV-housing to free the assembly from the transaxle


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Fig. Fig. 14: Separating the assembly from the transaxle


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Fig. Fig. 15: Removing the assembly from the transaxle


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Fig. Fig. 16: Removing the seal from the housing using a suitable prying tool

  1. Remove the cotter pin, lockwasher and spring washer from the front axle ends.
  2. Have a helper apply the service brakes and loosen the front axle hub retaining nut.
  3. Raise and support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
  4. Remove the hub nut, washer and wheel assembly. Drain transaxle fluid.

The speedometer drive pinion must be removed from the transaxle housing before the right side drive axle can be removed. Remove the retaining bolts and lift the pinion with cable connected from the housing.
  1. Remove the clamp bolt that secures the ball joint stud with the steering knuckle.
  2. Separate the ball joint from the knuckle by prying downward against the knuckle connecting point and the control arm. Take care not to damage the rubber boot.
  3. Separate the outer CV-joint (Constant Velocity) splines from the steering knuckle hub by holding the CV housing and pushing the knuckle out and away. If resistance is encountered, use a brass drift and hammer to gently tap the outer hub end of the axle. Do not pry on the outer wear sleeve of the CV-joint.
  4. After the outboard end of the drive axle has been removed from the steering knuckle, support the assembly and pull outward on the inner CV-joint housing to remove the assembly from the transaxle.


WARNING Do not pull on the shaft or the assembly will disconnect. Pull only on the inner CV-joint housing.
  1. Remove the halfshaft from under the vehicle and service as necessary.

To install:
  1. When installing the halfshaft, hold the inner joint assembly by its housing, align and guide the shaft into the transaxle or intermediate shaft assembly.
  2. Lubricate the outer wear sleeve and seal with multi-purpose grease. Push the steering knuckle outward and install the splined outer shaft into the drive hub.
  3. Install the steering knuckle assembly. Tighten the ball joint clamp bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Tighten the hub nut (splined shaft nut) to 180 ft. lbs. (250 Nm). Refill the transaxle with the proper lubrication fluid.

If after installing the axle assembly, the inboard boot appears collapsed, vent the boot by inserting a thin round rod between the boot and the shaft. Massage the boot until is expands. Install a new clamp to prevent dirt from entering the boot.

Oct 17, 2012 | Mopar Performance 1995 - 1997 Plymouth...

1 Answer

Have a Sta-Rite 1.5 hp Model #HMSF 1F - trying to get it apart to change seal- has been leaking and losing prime- four bolts hold the motor on- tried to separate there first but will not pull apart (maybe...


Remove impeller housing cover. Insert screwdriver carefully into back of motor to keep the armature from turning then unscrew impeller clockwise or opposite the direction of operation. Replace seal on impeller and pump housing. Lube seal with graphite. Replace impeller and housing cover. Remove screwdriver from motor. You should be good to go.

Sep 10, 2011 | Sta Rite 1 Hp Sta - Rite Abg Swimming Pool...

1 Answer

Im replacin the cv joints on passanger side and driver side how do i get the axle out of the transmission casing is ther a key behind the plate with the 4 bolts? my truck is a 99 isuzu rodeo LS 4wd


remove inner cv boot, just on inside edge is circlip which holds inner bearing joint into outer housing remove circlip and separate joint outer housing does not come out of front diff unless you drop or remove whole front diff assembly
will have to remove whole stub axle hub assembly to remove drive shaft from outer wheel stub axle (hub) assembly

Apr 20, 2011 | 1999 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

How to replace front cv shafts ?


remove inner cv boot, just on inside edge is circlip which holds inner bearing joint into outer housing remove circlip and separate joint outer housing does not come out of front diff unless you drop or remove whole front diff assembly
will have to remove whole stub axle hub assembly to remove drive shaft from outer wheel stub axle (hub) assembly

Aug 01, 2009 | 1997 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Pump disassembly


I removed the impeller on my DW761UQB. The instructions were molded into the plastic pump housing. This is how I DID MINE: Remove motor mount screws. Remove the chopper screw (screw only goes into impeller, not motor shaft). Remove chopper and rotate/remove strainer. Place socket or wrench on impeller tip and place another wrench on rear of motor's plastic fan. Unscrew fan from impeller shaft ( threads are LEFT handed, turn CW). Once fan is 'backed off' of the impeller, CAREFULLY pry the motor/fan from pump housing (impeller is attached to motor shaft via splines). Don't crack the delicate plastic pump housing. Mine was stuck, but separated with moderate force. Now remove the impeller/seals from the pump housing. This worked for MY above mentioned model, I don't know what other models it applies to. I am not a pro.

Sep 25, 2008 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

2003 suburban


Jack up the affected side and support vehicle on stands.
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Remove nut that fastens onto affected ball joint;
Using a "pickle fork" (ball joint separator) hammer fork in between ball joint. Use at least a 5 Lbs. mallet to strike fork;38722d9.jpg
(Above: Blue wire is holding rotor assembly from flailing away after ball joint separation).

Using ball joint extractor, press out failed ball joint:
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Then fit in new ball joint and reassemble rotor assembly.


Jun 18, 2008 | 2003 Chevrolet Suburban 1500

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