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Chainsaw will not continue to run

This saw will start, run a few seconds then stops, appears to be fuel starved. I had to replace the primer bulb prior to this event. Also a new plug and fresh fuel. When I press the primer bulb the fuel flows to the fuel pump. I did take the carb apart and clean it. replaced faulty gaskets with some I had on hand. after all of that still will start,fun for a few seconds and die. Idea's

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  • skypilot18
    skypilot18 Dec 31, 2013

    You don't say what model Homelite. However it sounds like a split intake boot. What you think is lack of fuel could be too much air:-)

  • D Kerr Jan 14, 2014

    It is a Homelite UT-10947 D. have followed the advice:new plug,new fuel, rebuilt carb (wrong kit), replaced primer bulb, will start then run a couple of seconds then die. might havew screwed up the fuel feed lines, got 2 different answers on what line goes where.

  • D Kerr Jan 14, 2014

    Hit the wrong key. any ideas on the above

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Their should be 3 to 4 Carb adjustments "L" for low "H" for high the "I" for Idle, adjust the screws till their all the way shut and 1/4 turns each till it starts up, but if it starts as you say it does just adjust the Idle speed.

Posted on Jan 16, 2014

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  • Michael Stair
    Michael Stair Jan 16, 2014

    clean your air filter to if its to dirty it wont get enough air, but i highly doubt thats your problem

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Poulan Pro Chainsaw, PP3516AVX

is the cap vent plugged?

Posted on Sep 22, 2012

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: spear and jackson chainsaw. runs

OK - let's work through this. If you need choke all the time then the mixture is too weak when the choke is off. Putting the choke on literally chokes off the air supply to the engine by lowering a small shutter across the entrance to the carburettor. That means either there is too much air getting to the engine (don't see how!!) or too little fuel. So, how do we get too little fuel? You could check for this as follows;
- before we do anything tricky let's check the obvious things - is there a fresh fuel mix in the tank? Petrol does go off, especially if there is 2 -stroke oil added to it. If it's over a month old from the pump mix up a fresh batch. Is the idle speed set too low so the engine stalls when the choke is knocked off? You can see this screw to one side of the carburettor (you need to remove the top lid in front of the handle on the chain saw, and then remove the air filter to see it). Turn the screw half a turn clockwise to speed the engine up. Be warned - if the engine starts it will run faster than normal and that means the chain may start to spin around. Also - check that the chain brake is off (i.e. the safety lever is pulled backwards, and that the chain is free to move BEFORE you attempt to start)
- is the fuel filter blocked? To get to this, make a wire hook (e.g. thick fuse wire) and gently hook out the fuel filter that's sitting at the bottom of the fuel tank, and take a look at it (be gentle - you can damage the gauze if you are clumsy). Does the gauze look clear? I.e. if you dip it into petrol it will freely run into the filter and of course drain out when you lift it? If not, replace it.
- next stop - are the jets in the carburettor set right? I don't have a service manual for this (and I know the manual says unhelpfully "return for service") but basically you will have seen two holes on the side of the chain saw (below the handle) two small 0.8cm holes; one marked 'L' (for low speed) and the other 'H' (for high). Put a fine flat screwdriver down the L hole and feel for the slot of the low speed jet. Once engaged turn it out half a turn and this will enrich the mixture - if this seems to help and you can start the engine then adjust the L jet in or out until the engine is idling comfortably. If it idles too quickly then you can also turn down the idle screw (see previous paragraph).
- no luck still? Well, it could be fuel pump or a blocked jet in the carburettor but this really is a 'return to the service centre' task!

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: Wild thing chainsaw won't stay

On the carburetor got two screws to adjust the carburetor. The first is to adjust the saw when working at high speeds. Another is when running at low revs. It is best to either put back for about 1.5 cycle of the maximum of the end of the rotation of the screws. If then the saw starts, then you can adjust it fine at higher revs (H), then at low (L). Have can be minimum screw that stops the chain.

Posted on Sep 01, 2011

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is the cap vent plugged?

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The primer bulb pulls fuel from the carb, into the bulb, and pushes it back to the tank. If the bulb does not fill there will be a number of reasons why, firstly if the saw is new, there will be oil in the carb from the starting prosess at the factory, the saw will start without fuel in the bulb, but will take many more pulls to get it going, once the saw starts and runs for a few minutes the oil in the carb will clear, and the bulb will fill normally when depressed, if your arm is not up to cranking the engine many times, remove the top cover, remove the air filter, dribble some fresh fuel/oil mix down the filter elbow, the saw will start after a few pulls. If the saw is a used machine the problem may well be a blocked fuel filter in the tank.

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I just did a primer bulb not too long ago, but I don't remember what equipment it was on. They are generally easy to replace. First, remove anything that is retaining the bulb assembly, such as cover plate. On my Homelite chainsaw, I simply pried it out with a small screwdriver.
The replacement part itself has two barbed stubs that the two fuel line hoses push onto.
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Your carbs main jet is blocked. Using the primer supplements the fuel input and keeps the engine from becoming fuel starved.

You need to remove the main jet and run a strand of fine wire through the jet to clear it.

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A quick test to see if it's running too lean (starved for fuel) is to gently push the primer bulb. If the motor spins up (revs), it's likely a clogged high speed jet. If it stalls immediately, then it's running too rich and you need to cut back on the high jet.

See http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmadjc.htm for some quick and dirty (but good) instructions on adjusting the jets to fine-tune your engine.

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You can find replacement parts on amazon, here Amazon com poulan chainsaw chain parts. I hope this was helpful. Cheers

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrXpU70Hmi0
  • The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
  • If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, an output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
  • The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs to help with reassembly.
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HTH
Lou

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The numbers you supply don't cross to an operators manual but that is typical of Homelite/Ryobi. I'm going to make an educated guess that it does not have a primer system. Other Ryobi saws with primer systems include it in the specification. The 3535A does not. Close scrutiny reveals no primer.
IMO fuel primers on chainsaws are one more source of problems. In the USA ethanol additives attack fuel hoses. Without a primer routing is from the fuel tank directly to the carburetor and much simpler to replace. Primers on chainsaws operate differently than 4 cycle engines too. No fuel is injected into the carburetor or engine, its only purpose is to ensure the carburetor is full of fuel,
Typical Fuel hose routing:
  • The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
  • If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, an output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
  • The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
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HTH
Lou

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